Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[itsu]

Thanks for the clarification even you were very cleared. If you have time. repeat the process with closed inductor circuit. This is because when you put your inductor in action it will be behaved like a closed circuit and not open. Having it open while searching for resonant frequencies, affects your grenade only capacitively. If you close it, its inductance comes in to the game and resonant points are different.

Hi Jeg,

you are right, closing the inductor changes the response, the 2e peak at 1.2Mhz disappeared, see the below screenshot.
But this grenade coil is very sensitive to stray capacitance as the position i put the 2 winding FG loop shows already different resonance peaks.

Regards Itsu

[itsu]

  John.K1:
  Yes, I've seen those units also. Not a bad price. Let us know how it goes with that.

  I wonder if something like this (below) would work also, for up to 8Mhz, and it also has a lcd read out panel to see the frequency on.
$12, free delivery.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-DDS-Function-DDS-Signal-Generator-Module-Sine-Triangle-Square-Wave-/181860090483?tfrom=181890273714&tpos=top&ttype=price&talgo=undefined

 
   Itsu: Ok I see where I made the error. I used the Calc tool set to the upper us setting ,  the lower us setting gave me the same as what you posted. So, 1.8Mhz it is. That is also about what it gave me on the SG reading this time, as the dial was not all the way to the 2Mhz position. And that was the best frequency that was obtained. Probably a harmonic, as you mentioned. 
So, what's the next, any ideas. Should I tune my Kacher to 1.8Mhz now, or not???

Nick,  yes that's what i would do.

Reinstall the grenade into the system (antenna, kacher) and recheck the resonance as it might shift already, see my above post.
If its in the same area, then tune the kacher to that same frequency and see if the kacher now will create a signal at the grenade.

Regards Itsu

[John.K1]

I would also suggest to ground the grenade coil as it will mix up your resonance frequency too.

[TinselKoala]

  Itsu, TK:
  Here are my best grenade resonance frequency scope shots. Using channel 1, and my new 10x scope probe, 1x magnification.
  This is with a two turns coil wound over the grenade coil, and the scope probe on the grenade output.
  I believe it to be 550khz, but, again that may be wrong.
  I get 1.1div times .5us= 0.55us.  If I use the easier for me to use Calc tool that Itsu suggested, and place 0.55us,  I get 550khz. Correct?
  Sorry, but I couldn't rotate these images, I tried. Maybe you can rotate them yourselves.

If you only use one cycle, and divide that by the duration of one cycle, your result will be less accurate than if you do it the way I have been suggesting.

But, using one cycle and your reading of 1.1 divisions as the duration, you are correct that the duration is 0.55 microseconds for one cycle. Written out fully,
0.55 microseconds = 0.000 000 55 second.
(Recall that "micro" means six digits to the right of the decimal point, so 0.55 microseconds would mean 8 digits to the right.)

So you have 1 cycle PER 0.55 microseconds. Doing the division you have 1 cycle / 0.00000055 second = 1818181.8... cycles PER second, or 1.8 MHz.



You will have more accuracy if you do it the way I have been suggesting, by displaying as many full cycles as you can easily count, and using the middle 8 graticule divisions as the duration window, as Itsu has shown. 

1. Determine the duration of the 8 middle divisions: Multiply the Horizontal Timebase setting by 8 :   0.5 microseconds x 8 = 4 microseconds = 0.000004 second.

2. Use the Horizontal Position control to put one peak _exactly on_ the left edge of the 8 division duration window.

3. Count the peaks (full cycles) that are covered by the 8 division duration window. I count 7 full peaks and 0.4 of the next one, for 7.4 cycles.

4. Now simply divide the number of full cycles by the duration of the window:  7.4 / 0.000004 = 1850000 cycles PER second, or 1.85 MHz. 


Even if you purchase a frequency counter, (which is a good idea), you should still try to get this procedure down pat. It's a fundamental scoposcopy skill that everyone with a scope of any kind should know how to do, and you should always do a "sanity check" of your frequency counter readout by comparing it to what you actually see on the scope. This is true even for DSOs and their  numerical readouts -- check the actual waveform display against the "numbers in boxes".

[lost_bro]

Hi Lost-Bro.

You say "The schematic for the hardware hack of the AD9850dds (chinese pcb) is in the DSO file." 

Where is the DSO file please?   Thank you very much.

Regards,

Good day John.K1 and All

Sorry for the screw-up...........  typing one thing and thinking another.....  It is INO. file not DSO.....

My last posts refer to the DSO file, which in reality is the INO. file extension = Arduino 'sketch' format.

You will find the drawing for the *hardware* hack inside the 'Sketch' ino. file.   It explains with a quick line drawing and written explanation as to how to connect the comp. input on the DDS pcb to the output of an ArduinoUno with a first order 'low pass filter' after removing the *onboard* pot.

Sorry again for the confusion.

take care, peace
lost_bro