Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[Jeg]

The PLL should be operating in blocking oscillator mode on the current peak in the series resonance.
So when there is maximum current on positive half-cycle the PLL will switch off MOSFET and flip to another half. Then the PLL should do same with on the peak of current in the negative half-cycle.
In this way it will chop low frequency square wave duty cycle to the best matching length and will make frequency shift to the best matching resonant frequency of the series resonance.
Then the signal on the PLL flip-flop time goes to the Tesla coil driver which will fire up signal to the Tesla coil.
There is an issue as well - due changing resonant frequency on the PLL the Tesla coil driver have to change its frequency to the resonant harmonic. This make manual tuning hard to achieve due changing conditions and instability of system operation. So to solve that the both frequency generators have to be synchronized. akula tried 2 PLL but that appeared to be "mission impossible" to get proper operation. My idea is from different approach - by applying frequency multiplier instead of manual frequency generator for the Tesla coil this problem go away instantly due locking of 2 frequencies on resonant harmonics all the time.

Here is Ruslan's video about mode of operation: https://youtu.be/NHpUE6oqt7k?t=9m27s

Interesting idea even complicated for me. About the second pll, i really don't find any usefulness. High frequency resonant point doesn't seem to change over the time, not even by different loads. By adding loads i have noticed only HF amplitude value changes but not frequency. Perhaps someone else will also share his findings on this to compare.

The DC-DC converter transformer details which was missing in Olegs schematics: I made 24+24T primary on small transformer with 1mm diameter magnet wire and the secondary was around 0.25mm for target voltage of about 130V. It gets up to 145V DC in in open end and drops to 87V with 15W 220V microwave bulb.

Just for comparing with your results: Out of my 28T yoke secondary i extract 270V dc. When i connected there a 42W 220V bulb, it went down to 62V. I will try today with enough fear , to connect over there my Tesla coil.

[verpies]

Nice idea Verpies, thanks. (Even i feel that by tracking just amplitude would be easier and the same effectiveness)

Not really, because many amplitude peaks exist.  See this video.

Sometimes i find John'sK1 idea with arduino a very good choice for doing all of these. (Tracking-calculating-correcting freq.) What is your opinion for this? Normally it would be just a matter of simple programming.

If the interrupt latency and ADC/DAC/PWM quantization errors do not present a problem at kHz frequencies.

I avoid these MCU solutions for other users because programming presents a significant entry barrier.
I find that programming discrete logic "with jumpers" is much easier for them, especially that analog sections need to be built and soldered anyway.

[magpwr]

hi everyone,

I have spent few days during available time to solder all the nanosecond generator (Oleg + Sergey) components onto the existing 1 i/c:UC3825N PWM breadboard.

This time i try to use all smd resistors (1206) and smd ceramic capacitors underneath on the track side to save space and reduce design headache.

This time i notice there is improvement in the nanosecond generator waveform taken across 1.2KV Silicon Carbide Mosfet Source and Gate.

After soldering low ESR tantalum capacitor 4.7uf 50volts directly under the 8pin IXDI614 I/C which was soldered directly on board to minimize any stray inductance that may exist.

Output of Mosfet driver i used a 2watt 1% thick film Smd resistor connected in parallel with 1n5818 diode at the top side.

I have achieved a flat top waveform at under 80 nanosecond for the first time.

But i will stick with around 78ns to 80ns for the mosfet used in nanosecond generator circuit.

The only component 470pf Mylar Polyester soldered underneath board because ceramic capacitor don't seems to function properly at 1.7Mhz.Mylar capacitor will be replaced with Mica for stability.
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I will create a video demo to show how i use a 1xLi-ion battery 18650 which is boosted to around 22volts to act as temporary isolated power supply.

PWM circuit  merely does alternate switching for the 2 Mosfets which can be connected to 24volts all the way to around 300DC.Similar for nanosecond generator Mosfet which will be connected to HV DC supply around 200VDC.

Voltage boost circuit will be replaced by more advance Buck/boost circuit which maintain same voltage around 22volts using same i/c XL6009 if i am using higher voltage eg:24volts to 30volts.

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Photo taken after removing all unwanted soldering flux and dirt at the track side.

[Tomtech29]

Hi.all

magpwr
pretty good
I know well how much time it consumes himself something to start ,with pleasure watch how your system works
I have a request"bought a controller": SG3525-LM358-Inverter-Driver-Board-Pre-post-Circuit-Drive-Full-Protection-Board
and I can not run it I do not know whether there must be some signal na Pin 6, 7 the scheme looks like that there is U1 PC817
and my question is whether it can be overcome?
-I removed R7 and still do not have oscillations?
or anything you can advise me
What triggers this arrangement?

[magpwr]

Hi.all

magpwr
pretty good
I know well how much time it consumes himself something to start ,with pleasure watch how your system works
I have a request"bought a controller": SG3525-LM358-Inverter-Driver-Board-Pre-post-Circuit-Drive-Full-Protection-Board
and I can not run it I do not know whether there must be some signal na Pin 6, 7 the scheme looks like that there is U1 PC817
and my question is whether it can be overcome?
-I removed R7 and still do not have oscillations?
or anything you can advise me
What triggers this arrangement?

hi Tomtech29,

I am not familiar with the circuit shown unless you got a schematic at the driver side.

Since i have worked with 3525 few years ago as my 1st PWM i/c .I think it's got 450mA output compared to lousy TL494 at mere 250mA.

Maybe you want to try to remove i/c and connect it to a proto board and do a test.

I have attached a hand drawn version of the 3525 done few years back.

Pin 14 and pin 11 is the output.


Not forgetting pin 1 and pin 9 is connected together.


But it looks the the circuit is rather obsolete since it's still using transistor handle switching.

Make it simple if you connect output of 3525 to TC4427(Safety max 17volts) or better IX4427 or even better IXDN604.All these are Dual output 1 i/c mosfet driver.