Kapanadze Cousin - DALLY FREE ENERGY

[AlienGrey]

note this pic your wanting to remove oscillations all you need to get rid of are the spikes you need to keep the ringing ! or just give up because your destroying what you need ! YOUR DISTROYING THE DIPOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its why your getting no where, got it now ?

It might be an idea to increase the ringing to obtain more F you can do this by reducing the on time. got it ?

PS why is red waveform off when it should be on / is it inverted ?

In your scope shot you have no ringing rail to rail you have half on half off OVER HEATING your Ferox is useless you need to select a better quality Ferox they make acceptable ones in the factory at Hungary  perhaps its resonance but it needs to be rail to rail like in your internet link pic I put up it's been 5 years now try it. from an Educational point of view.

It's used in power frequency multipliers in circuits used in amateur radio transmitters and repeaters it works! Isn't that what your building? besides that just playing with the modules is ok from an educational point of view but making a device and using it isI'm told is illegal  so I won't be publishing too much thanks. So I will let you guys get on and play with the corrupt disciplines

[NickZ]

Nick,

i believe the ringing is causing the heating up of the MOSFETs, not the single spike.
This single spike will (if exceeding the MOSFET voltage rating to long) damage the MOSFET after a while.
So both need to be taken care of.

Tame the ringing, then you probably have found the heating problem.
Then see if the remaining spike is to big for your MOSFET and if so, take care of that spike then.

Itsu

   Ok, in taming BOTH the ringing and the spikes, this below is what I've some up with, so far.
   The TL494 is running the gates at about 16.5KHz.
   The image below is my drain signal, showing a 60v peak, now.
   The sec/div setting is on 10uf on the image below. And both volt/div are on 20.
    It's running at almost full duty cycle setting. About 43% duty clycle, or so.
   The spikes go up if I lower the duty cycle, any more. So, for now it works best at close to the full duty cycle setting.
   So, these are both my drain signals (below), now. The spikes were dropped to about 60v. So that's about 1/2 of the 120v previous spike voltages. Ringing is considerably tamed, as well.
   Let me know what you think...

[itsu]

Nick,

this is no good, i only see some spikes on your drains now.
What we should see is ideally a square wave like signal with perhaps some little spike on turnoff time.
Instead i now see NO swithed square wave at all, only a spike.


Not sure what you did, but we where half way in a snubber calculation procedure, please try to focus on that first.  Where you able to half the ringing frequency?
And for the 4th time:  are you running your inductor / wima cap in resonance???   I know it shows about 16.5Khz, but is that the resonance frequency?

Itsu

[Void]

Just in case anyone out there is still interested in the search for OU,
I watched a video from Kapanadze dated 2004-04-28, and based on the
current measurements shown in that video and guessing roughly at the output
voltage across the 5 large bulbs, it calculates to about 80W drawn from the
12V battery and roughly about 5kW to the load, assuming the load was five 1 kW light bulbs.
If I guessed the output roughly right, that would be a COP of about 62 or so. Looks like a quite simple
setup however.  Also, a simpler looking coil arrangement.

I will hazard a guess here and say there could possibly be some differences between what Akula actually
did in his second self runner and what is in the schematic that was distributed around...

The sparkgap is showing as mostly violet, so it appears to be conducting quite low current.
In my experience the corona discharge should appear a lot more whitish if higher currents are conducted.
If the sparkgap is not just for show, then its function is mysterious, but to get OU it
seems a given to me that we must think way outside the box. Likely you may have to do some things
that may not seem to make sense.

[apecore]

Hi Void,

The spark gap idea is maybe a mystery but as i can imagine that those spark gaps do spark at best when using a DC voltage.
This makes maybe some more sense in order to get the grenade charged?

Also in your first posted picture we see a kind of orange cilinder (at the right of the picture) does someone know or can we speculate what that might be....  looks to ma as a kind of big capacitor.

greetngs