New comer needs any and all help

[TinselKoala]

Here's another fact that I just noticed, but is perfectly reasonable. The Sweet Spot changes as the run battery decreases in voltage. I've been running all night and the run battery is now down to 12.14 volts. The current draw has dropped a bit and the rotor slows, so I find that I can turn the potentiometer slightly to reestablish the 70-80 mA current draw without losing the high voltage spike. So the Sweet Spot base resistance is moving as the battery voltage drops. This seems to be a strong argument for including the pot and bulb in the circuit as a normal part, rather than using a fixed base resistance.

Plus it's always fun to have something to tweak, if you know what I mean.

[jhsmith87]

Well I've been studying it for a while so I can tell you pretty much how it works or why it works. Basically from what I understand it's all based on switching when there's no magnet front of the coil the drive coil is turned on producing an electromagnetic field when the magnet it's in front of it it turns on the other 1 at the same time turning off the drive. so when theres no magnet in front of it the drive is attracting but when the magnet pass is it it introduces current into the other 1 therefore shutting off the drive and repelling the magnet as its leaving from in front of the coil. That's how I understand it from what I have read in many many articles about it.

and what is it that I helped u do. Your the one that was helping me haha

[TinselKoala]

Well, just for fun I made another coil with a different set of parameters. I used a core made of a bundle of pieces of soft iron wire, and I used a triple strand of #27 wires for the drive coil and wound this, by itself, onto the core first, 650 turns. Then on top of that I used a single strand of #27 and wound 700 turns for the sense coil. So the two coils aren't intermixed like in the first one I made. This motor needs a greater spin to start than the other coil, maybe that is because of the way I wound the sense coil.

This coil really works though, once it starts. It has its "sweet spot" at only slightly different total base resistance, about 240 ohms, but it draws a lot more current, 240 mA, and runs faster, around 1475 RPM at 12.3 v and 240 mA, and it makes much more HV current too, judged by the way it runs the Ring Oscillator load. Still though, the sweet spot is where the little incandescent bulb just barely begins to glow, and then back off just a tiny bit.

So now I'm running on that coil, on battery B2, and charging battery B1 which I pulled when it got down to about 11.9 v.  It is already back up to 12.59 v according to the meter. The run battery, B2, is down to 12.16 v. So it appears that I am effectively transferring charge from one battery to the other... and it appears that the charge battery is increasing in voltage faster than the run battery is decreasing.

Now all I need is some black sand and I'll be ready to run my house on a giant Bedini motor in the basement.

[jhsmith87]

ha.. i hear ya, what is black sand, and what good is it vs welding rods like i use?

you should try this, u know the circuit is basically a JT on steroids right. well i used to experiment with all kinds of things with my JT, one thing i noticed is that when i made my coil that it seemed to put out the most power when i wrapped the wires opposing each other. like if your holding the spool facing you, you wrap one coil with turns going to the right and the other going to the left, (doesnt matter witch one) but be sure that you wrap them together, not one on top the other, like you did the coil u just told me about. and that way may work, i dont know i have only tried it with opposing winds wrapping them together, it takes a little more time and effort, but i noticed a big difference in my output voltage. as much as a 3v gain. and i am not sure about the amps this is when my meter started to show signs of being incorrect, but it seemed an amp increase of about 7 to 10mah..
now for the bedini motor thats not alot of extra power, but coming from a single double A battery thats ALOT! the increase i seen was more power than a fully charged AA puts out on it own almost double, now i am not sure this would work with the bedini, but i dont see why not.
try it out.

[TinselKoala]

The black sand is magnetic sand, I think it's probably little meteorite fragments that are in the dust of the air, or iron ore particles. Some Bedini sites say to use it, mixed with epoxy and formed into a rod, for the core material. I dunno... wouldn't a good ferrite be just as effective? Or the welding rod pieces? Who knows, without trying and comparing, holding other conditions constant. Maybe someone has done the necessary research. I'm not quite up to the full program myself but I have done a couple of good comparisons already.

Yes, I agree about the JT - Bedini circuits. I have said before that the high-voltage JT is a Bedini motor with no moving parts, and I've used my JTs to charge capacitors and even external batteries, using the same take-off points as with the Bedini motor. My neon Ring Oscillator runs really well on a HV JT but needs about 3.5 V to get going. Still, not bad for powering a device that has 5, 90 volt neons running. And I've made several good LED JTs using the little E-core inductors from old TV chassis.

I think I understand the winding method you are describing. I'll have to try that, if I can figure out how to automate it. I can wind the two layers separately in opposite directions easily enough, but winding them both at the same time, interweaving them so to speak, is a lot more difficult and I can see that it must have driven you nuts to do a big coil that way. This is almost a "caduceus" winding, if your two winding turns kind of cross each other at close to 90 degrees, like a spindle wind.... and those are known or alleged to have several interesting effects. I definitely will try it if I can figure out how to do it easily.... thanks for the idea!

Meanwhile, I've done the first battery swap. When B1 got charged up to a bit over 12.6 volts, and B2 was down to around 11.6, I swapped them around, and now am running on the battery that the motor charged itself, and charging the B2 battery for the first time. I'm not yet keeping track of times, just getting a feel for the process. The B2 battery is already back up to 12.33 volts, but the B1 is going down pretty fast, it's already down to 11.92.