Friction heater running in my house

[oilpiggy]

Hi, Gabriel -- intriguing information:  "I magnetized them before installing the discs. Its nice that you picked up on that" 

So, how were they magnetized?  North poles up (for example) on all disks, or what?  Do these disks hold much magnetization I wonder? 
Or could a guy put an EXTERNAL magnet on the outside of the casing?

PS -- I'm VERY impressed by the engineering and work that went into your design.
Thanks,
Steve

Hello Steve, and thank you.

The discs are north then south then north... Etc. etc. etc. This all helps with a few different aspects of the core itself.

Thank you
Gabriel

[Doug1]

Oilpiggy
Ever give any thought to heating up a disk and brushing it with a brass or bronze wire brush so it coats the plate the way some people apply a coating to cast iron statues or ornamental work for the stationary disks?

[oilpiggy]

Oilpiggy
Ever give any thought to heating up a disk and brushing it with a brass or bronze wire brush so it coats the plate the way some people apply a coating to cast iron statues or ornamental work for the stationary disks?

Hello

Nope I have not done anything to coat the discs. With what you are proposing what do you think the out come would be?

[Doug1]

 Different materials may lend themselves to heating up better then others .they may also transfer heat to the liguid better then others. If your disks are performing some sort of induction heating effect from being magnatized and in motion against one another. You may want to investigate how you can or if you can include the effects of a homopolar dynomo motor gen arangment to. An oil filled cylinder would have the addvantage of using the oil as an insulator with motion giving capacitense to the alternate plates while they are turning.
   There is plenty of prior data from various sources wich could give you months experimenting with your device. Altimately to get it to put out the most heat with the least amount of input from the drive motor. Then there is always the chance you could trip over some other effect along the way that you could use elswhere.

Here is a video for ya http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzmHGmAqMJc  Im not sugjesting you go for this level of heat cause it would creap up to the motor and catch fire. I will see if I can locate the the dynomo study paper and pass that along to you once I find it. You can read Teslas notes on the unipolar dynomo yourself on the net. Phase shift tricks to lead in or recombine to increase work with out increasing input. Consumption becomes additive to input like recycling ,the shift in the phase of reinput seams to be that trick.

[mscoffman]

@oilpiggy,

*You* know whether your furnace device outputs extra heat energy or not because 1HP =~ 800Watts.
800Watts equals one half the heat output of one of those 1500Watt nichrome and plastic room heater/fans.
So 800Watts would not capable of heating a room much less a whole house. So you know whether this
device really works or not.

My Idea;

So let us assume oilpiggy's heater produces energy gain. I therefore propose this idea. It would be interesting
and neat to combine your furnace design with a ROV Rotoverter motor and generator overunity device like
depicted in the link;

http://www.peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Motor-Alternator_Self-Looped_System_by_Joe_Tomicki

The combined device should then be capable of outputing lots of heat while simultaneously recharging 1/2 its
battery bank so as to not require *any* utility connection.

Here are some benefits of this approach;

1) A single high efficiency (DC) motor is required for both processes.
2) The devices subsystem are sized as required for continuous operation.
3) No Utility Line Voltage is required since the energy loop is primarily distributed by mechanical shaft.
4) No Line Voltage inverter is required - no cost - no high voltages - unit will be extremely safe
5) A Large power off switch or Key switch would be required so the device doesn't accidently start up while in storage.
6) If... the deep cycle discharge batteries use room temperature heat to recharge - the furnace device's energy gain
     produces the extra heat required.
7) A remote thermostatic device of some type would be required.


Here is how I would build such the heater;
6 deep cycle discharge (marine trolling) batteries 3 in series to the drive motor 3 in parallel to recharge via the alternator.
6 CMOS NE555 configured as a VFC voltage to frequency converters to monitor each battery voltage independently
    without forming any DC groundloops.
1 custom constructed lucite plastic mercury tilt switches to reconfigure the batteries.
1 tilt switch is driven by small DC gearmotor. tilt left => battery bank 1 in parallel battery bank 2 in series
   tilt right => battery bank 2 in parallel battery bank 1 in series.
1 microcontroller processor - control for above.

Neat, Aye?

:S:MarkSCoffman