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Overunity Machines Forum



Lynx Joule Inverter

Started by Lynxsteam, November 29, 2012, 12:42:40 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Magluvin

Its a strange circuit. I copied it below.

The LNK IC is initially physically connected to the neg of the input caps shown in green circles. B+ cant pass through the diode in the orange circle. So the initial startup B+ for the LNK chip must be via the path of the arrows I drew in, through the inductor and the 100uf cap, via pin D of the LNK

It might not take much more than 12v to fire these things up. The 100uf cap is 16v, so Im assuming that the output to the led bank, through R 9current limiter) at the far right, is around 12V. The led bank is set up to take on the 12v/3 each.

I have not gotten a bulb yet. Have you tried to apply say 24v to the bulb directly? 

Mags

Lynxsteam

Using 24 volts directly to the bulb you get one bright flash.  24 volts through the transformer you get a nice bright steady light.  Remember, you will see somewhere between 160-1000 hz on the hz meter through the transformer using DC.
The solar panels on the back of my house are tied into a 24 volt battery bank so this is very convenient for me to set up LED lights using this system.  My garage and front yard are lit by the LJL system because the solar panel on that side is 12 volts, and I have a little wind turbine for 12 volts as well.

Groundloop

Quote from: Magluvin on December 01, 2012, 10:26:49 PM
Its a strange circuit. I copied it below.

The LNK IC is initially physically connected to the neg of the input caps shown in green circles. B+ cant pass through the diode in the orange circle. So the initial startup B+ for the LNK chip must be via the path of the arrows I drew in, through the inductor and the 100uf cap, via pin D of the LNK

It might not take much more than 12v to fire these things up. The 100uf cap is 16v, so Im assuming that the output to the led bank, through R 9current limiter) at the far right, is around 12V. The led bank is set up to take on the 12v/3 each.

I have not gotten a bulb yet. Have you tried to apply say 24v to the bulb directly? 

Mags

Magluvin,

I'm not sure what your question is, but you must study the data sheet for the LinkSwitch IC to understand how this circuit works.

The LinkSwitch IC is powered through the Drain pin in the posted circuit because it is a low side switch. At each switch on, the IC
is powered by the charge stored in the 100nF capacitor. So the initial energy to power the IC goes from the positive rail through
the LEDS, through the R (and the internal LED in the EL817), through the 1mH coil and to the drain pin. The internal (in the IC) voltage
regulator has an output pin where the 100nF is connected to give the IC energy when the drain to source is conducting current,
thus the input voltage is removed from the drain pin, so that the IC is running until it switches is off again. The LinkSwitch IC is a very
versatile IC that can be used in many configurations. One useful configuration is a a power supply for low voltage, eg. 12 Volt,
from a very high input AC voltage, eg. mains.

Tests I have done with my 230VAC OSRAM 3 Watt LED lamp shows me that my lamp starts to light dimly at approx. 31 Volt DC input.

GL.

Magluvin

Thanks GL. Makes sense. ;)

Didnt think of the + coming from or through the load.

Mags

TinselKoala

And it looks like the LEDs are actually "running" off of the charge that is pumped into the 100uF cap on the right, dribbled out to them in pulses by the chip?