Lynx Joule Inverter

[Magluvin]

I tried some inductors alone.  Didn't work.  The transformer works best.  Really needs that ferrite core, or steel laminations, otherwise you have to wind a monster aircore coil.  I have a Philips 3.5 watt bulb which doesn't work because it is dimmable.  be careful when choosing a test bulb.  Find a non-dimmable.

Hey Lynx

I had ordered some key fob transmitters and receivers from Lynx I believe, some years ago for for an automotive 'wheel' lighting project. Worked great. 

Hmm, I still see it just as an inductor that is needed. Just the right size/value should suffice. 
I did a lot of work on Teslas, Igniter for Gas Engines circuit, and thats what got me to think inductor only.  Not absolutely sure yet.  So far im just working in my mind with this.

Im going to pick up a couple bulbs(led) this weekend.

Im dying to see whats inside. lol. I requested this before from someone that was working with these, but I dont think they opened them yet.  Heck, just about everyone has opened a spiral FL bulbs base to see the circuitry. But no body seems to be interested in popping open an led yet. As far as I know. Maybe most assume it is just super simple and not worth the pluck of a flat head screw driver.

There must be a converter of some sorts. These days its mostly all rectified wall current to a cap to around 150V, then that pulsed into a transformer to get the desired output. Being that your setup shows blinking reactions and ways to limit that, by change of inductance, then it must be a pulsed converter.

The inductors properties can allow the cap in the bulb circuit to load up to more than 12 from the battery.  I might say that the initial voltage to the cap when 12 is applied through the inductor could be upwards of 24V. Then the dc to dc portion of the circuit most likely can operate at that initial voltage, causing the cap to pull more from the battery, in pulses, and at maybe higher voltages than 24.  The inductor causes a flywheel effect as it doesnt want to allow current to stop flowing somewhat once it starts conducting.

Juleseeker doing the light box test is a good idea. I dont know if it will absolutely determine output power differences, but if he sees equality in normal operation and your way of powering it, then we should get close to a real idea of what we are getting one way or the other.  The flickering may affect readings. It would be good to have a high sample rate light meter and a computerized graph. Or a scope with a light sensor.

Have you popped one of these bulbs open yet?   If no, WHY!!!!    lol  just kidding.

Maybe I will be the first.

Thanks for showing. ;]

Mags

[Groundloop]

Hey Lynx

I had ordered some key fob transmitters and receivers from Lynx I believe, some years ago for for an automotive 'wheel' lighting project. Worked great. 

Hmm, I still see it just as an inductor that is needed. Just the right size/value should suffice. 
I did a lot of work on Teslas, Igniter for Gas Engines circuit, and thats what got me to think inductor only.  Not absolutely sure yet.  So far im just working in my mind with this.

Im going to pick up a couple bulbs(led) this weekend.

Im dying to see whats inside. lol. I requested this before from someone that was working with these, but I dont think they opened them yet.  Heck, just about everyone has opened a spiral FL bulbs base to see the circuitry. But no body seems to be interested in popping open an led yet. As far as I know. Maybe most assume it is just super simple and not worth the pluck of a flat head screw driver.

There must be a converter of some sorts. These days its mostly all rectified wall current to a cap to around 150V, then that pulsed into a transformer to get the desired output. Being that your setup shows blinking reactions and ways to limit that, by change of inductance, then it must be a pulsed converter.

The inductors properties can allow the cap in the bulb circuit to load up to more than 12 from the battery.  I might say that the initial voltage to the cap when 12 is applied through the inductor could be upwards of 24V. Then the dc to dc portion of the circuit most likely can operate at that initial voltage, causing the cap to pull more from the battery, in pulses, and at maybe higher voltages than 24.  The inductor causes a flywheel effect as it doesnt want to allow current to stop flowing somewhat once it starts conducting.

Juleseeker doing the light box test is a good idea. I dont know if it will absolutely determine output power differences, but if he sees equality in normal operation and your way of powering it, then we should get close to a real idea of what we are getting one way or the other.  The flickering may affect readings. It would be good to have a high sample rate light meter and a computerized graph. Or a scope with a light sensor.

Have you popped one of these bulbs open yet?   If no, WHY!!!!    lol  just kidding.

Maybe I will be the first.

Thanks for showing. ;]

Mags

Magluvin,

I did post the circuit drawing of a OSRAM 3W LED lamp, but I can re-post it here.
I do not think that the 110VAC types differ much from the 230VAC ones.
I have also attached the data sheet for the LED driver IC used in LED lamps.

GL.

[evolvingape]

Mags,

Some links for you:

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/led.htm

http://www.extremecircuits.net/2010/05/ultra-bright-led-lamp.html

http://www.scribd.com/doc/16646021/LED-LAMP-Circuits

http://avalights5.businesscatalyst.com/how-leds-work

http://www.digitalversus.com/led-lamps.html

There are loads more on google. Might help everyone when playing with custom circuits for this new application 

[Magluvin]

Mags,

Some links for you:

http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/led.htm

http://www.extremecircuits.net/2010/05/ultra-bright-led-lamp.html

http://www.scribd.com/doc/16646021/LED-LAMP-Circuits

http://avalights5.businesscatalyst.com/how-leds-work

http://www.digitalversus.com/led-lamps.html

There are loads more on google. Might help everyone when playing with custom circuits for this new application 

Thanks E

When I was a kid, I took all my electric/electronic toys and stuff apart, to see what was in there.  If this circuit in the led bulbs is responsible for 'possibly' getting more light out for less, then I want to see the circuit in that bulb Lynx has.

I read an article that stated that the government implemented new rules for making ac induction motors so they cant be converted to rotoverters? I think it was.

So who knows here. Get it.   So many new circuits today, who knows what they can do, with mods or out of their recommended limits of operation.

And maybe in the end, the light really isnt as bright as full ac power. Maybe its just a flashing illusion. The brain is funny that way.

But I still want to see.    The kid in me. 

So Ill be ripping one apart this weekend. 

Mags

[Lynxsteam]

I just tried 18.5 volts and the amp draw is 163ma for three 3W bulbs (3 watts or about a watt apiece).  The ma draw is linear with voltage.  Magluvin, I think you are right that these are set up to convert 120 vac to 24vdc.  The bulbs are almost full bright at 21 vdc. 

This is just an option to the SJR and LJL which work very well.  Its a good option for simplicity and for those non-dimmable bulbs.  Maybe a good option to avoid converting solar to battery to inverter to AC where there are a lot of losses.  If you can just run lighting straight from solar that's very efficient. 

I don't think any special inductor or transformer is needed as long as the resistance isn't too high.  A simple radio shack 10:1 is cheap and sturdy.  I hope some of you try this and relate your observations.