1850 Watts free energy power ? New GEGENE circuit by JL Naudin shows COP = 2.8

[pauldude000]

Madebymonkeys -- thanks for the pointer to the WT1800.

Are you saying that the Gegene will show WILL DEFINITELY show more input-power usage when measured by the WT1800 or equivalent, than when measured by a standard (utility-provided) power meter?

(Referring to a utility-provided power meter, not a "cheap" power meter such as the kill-a-watt meter)

I wonder is MBM realizes he is outclassed yet.....


The problem inherently is that certain mentalities get stuck in a rut, so to speak, and cannot get out of it. Truthfully, I trust my scope better than someone else's, even if it is inaccurate. If it is accurate, I know that at best the readings are but an approximational measurement of reality.


I guess what I am saying is that so long as the inaccuracy of the tool does not vary it will give a reliable measurement, if not an accurate measurement. You can determine ratios even using junk, so long as the measurements are equally off. MBM should realize it is one part tool, nine parts skill.


For example, one of the worst multimeters I have ever owned was a B&K.... Wouldn't take an accurate measurement to save it's life.


One of the most accurate just happened to be made in China. (Accidents do happen.) It measured precise on known quantity precision resistors. Go figure.


People shouldn't put too much faith in a tool name.

[pauldude000]

Hmmm.... thanks, that's interesting.... but in my systems I'm not using halogen bulbs, I am using ordinary incandescent automotive dome and instrument lights, and NE-2s. And I am driving them at higher peak voltages than their nominal ratings. For example, one type of bulb that I use a lot is a car dome light bulb, Osram K5618, rated 12 V 10 W, and my wireless receiver drives it with a nice 800 kHz sine wave at a p-p voltage of around 40 volts. It gets _very_ bright, but the glass is visibly darkened after only tens of minutes runtime.

With a peak to peak of 40v your mean voltage may well be way above the factory design rating of 12v of the bulb, and as someone else stated it is evaporating the filament. Use the concept of relativity, in that your bulb may be 'seeing' a constant voltage which is far above 12v, and the resistance (impedance) is changing due to the frequency. It is hard to tell from the pics, but the filament looks like it could be a coil which adds impedance with high frequency AC changing the total resistance of that leg of the circuit. It may well be acting like two resistors in parallel.


Something to think about, and I could well be full of the brown stuff.

[NoBull]

I am using ordinary incandescent automotive dome and instrument lights, and NE-2s. And I am driving them at higher peak voltages than their nominal ratings. For example, one type of bulb that I use a lot is a car dome light bulb, Osram K5618, rated 12 V 10 W, and my wireless receiver drives it with a nice 800 kHz sine wave at a p-p voltage of around 40 volts. It gets _very_ bright, but the glass is visibly darkened after only tens of minutes runtime.

At 800kHz there is no chance for the filament temperature to follow the input waveform, thus peak measurements of the waveform are of little significance in this case.
Do you know what the average current flowing through the filament is?

[jopel]

Hello,

i have tested this and it works perfect (1196 Watt Input and 2500 Watt Lightbulbs worked). But can anyone help me to deactivate the pot recognition on my cheap China induction heater? I've seen it on a page, but cant find it anymore - a resistor was changed to a bigger one. In Pic 1 you can see that i tested it with two 1k resistors, but it doesnt work and i changed it back.

greating

[Paul-R]

Induction hob for £29.  (Possibly UK only. Not sure).

Thursday April 25th. Probably limited availability.

ALDI - Thursday Special Buys 25th April 2013
.