1850 Watts free energy power ? New GEGENE circuit by JL Naudin shows COP = 2.8

[TinselKoala]

Interesting indeed.

I'm not sure if I trust the meters,especially the clamp meter. But if the voltmeter is reading correctly......
If those are 400 watt bulbs at 220 V, and power P = VI, then the current for one bulb plugged to the mains must be I = P/V or 400 Watts / 220 V = 1.81 Amps.
This means the on-state resistance of those bulbs is P = I²R or R = P/I², or 400/3.3 = around 121 ohms, or for seven in parallel about 17.3 ohms. At line frequency, of course.

And 165 volts seeing a load of 17.3 ohms ..... well, it shouldn't be drawing 22.3 Amps, that's for sure.  I = V/R = 165/17.3 =  about 9.54 amps .... And as the frequency goes up, the impedance of the bulbs should rise, shouldn't it?

There is something wrong with the meter readings. It is futile to attempt power measurements on a high-frequency, envelope-modulated signal using DMMs !

(Edited to correct the first computation which used 500 Watt bulbs)

[ramset]

5 minute test
If you have to play with light bulbs,and you want an idea of your output percentage  .I have found this method excellent for Cheap seat of the pants calorimetry.

Take just one of the bulbs from the "Load" array and set it up in one liter of water as pictured,[start Cold, never put a hot bulb in the vessel].
note the water temp start the device run for X [5 min?] amount of time "note the water temp at shut down .
Now take one of the bulbs plug it into the mains thru a Killowatt meter and run the same exact test again.... [this will be your baseline]
Compare temps.
It should be quite evident very quickly if the bulbs are putting out similar energy.

Useful test for checking bulb "energy Output"in a test array Versus
a known "fully lit" bulb. {eliminates the "IT looks Fully lit to me" Craziness}
Thx
Chet

[MileHigh]

Power output = 164.5V x 22.3A = 3,668W!!!

Yes but did it _feel_ like 3668 watts?

Did Woopy get startled and remark about the blast of infrared heat he would have had to have felt the moment he switched it on?

Did he jump at the blinding super intense brightness of the halogen lights that would have to have happened if the power dissipation was 3668 watts?

[woopy]

Thanks C

Interesting. less than nominal change to the input and the large load coil when adding 100w. AND, it seems so far that his readings and calculations are, what they are.

Woopy? Have you delved into finding what freq the heater is driving its coil? Most meters will specify what freq range they can read accurately.

quad fi coil.  Instead of having 100v lets say at the input across the coil and 50v pot difference between adjacent windings like a bifi, the quad will have 25v between adjacent windings with an input of 100v. Both bifi and quad with the same number of turns.
I wonder if the quad acts differently in a transformer?

Woopy? How does the quadfi work on its own, without the other bifi coil on the heater?

Nice work, as always. 

Mags

Hi Mag

As i say in my video i also do not trust my meters, and especially the ampclamp.

But this video is made to show the different config and the amazing possibilities of this induction coils.

With this small plate i can now use my scope because the max voltage stays in the range of the screen of my beginner scope.

The scope image is very near from what JLN get

There is a modulation with the voltage growing than stay ,than decrease and this on a 100 Hz range

Than inside this modulation i get a special sine wave which is thick and max 100 volt on the upper side and thinner and up to 220 volts on the down side , and this on a frequency of 20 kHz. (on my other bigger inductionplate Tristar, the frequency is about 25 kHz)

I wonder if the combination of those wave are perhaps important? It remember me of Stivep work on the TV yoke some time ago.

So my ampclamp is limited to 10kHz and my measurement is probably not relevant as i say in the video. I have seen on other forum that the measurement of this output power is not easy at all. But if we do not try we will never know.

But what is important here is too see that the 7 halos are very bright (surely not full) and i can add a incandescent lamp with an other Tesla without loosing performance. Romero as managed to loop back some energy also with an extra coil.

I have to make a lot of test with different config to get the right impedance matching for this small induction plate

I have tested the quadfilar directly on the induction and connected to the 7 halos, and it works very well but it seems some less brightness as per the bifi, and it become very hot (it is 4 telephone wire very thin) and on the scope the frequency seems more regular between upper and down side (i mean more near a sine wave)

I hope that this video will encourage some of you to replicate,  because it is really easy to do and the more we are the faster we will see the real deal.

OK hope this helps

Good luck at all

Laurent

[mikestocks2006]

Would it be practical to take the output through a bridge rectifier, then to a capacitor(bank) then over a known load power resistor? (also in series with a shunt) and then measure DC Volts and DC amps?
Thanks
Mike