Has anyone seen Lasersabers new motor runs on 1000uf cap

[wattsup]

@Farmhand

No problem man. You can think that but the fact is there is a difference.

When you drive from one side and the reed opens, the recoil goes back onto the connected side. So where does the recoil go when both sides are open? The energy has to go somewhere right? So where?

Maybe the passing rotor magnet will give the answer. hehehe

I will just have to build the wheel myself and show you guys when it is ready. hehehe

Got myself 6 candidate coils to start. 3 bucks each but all they had were six.

wattsup

Added: Made a mistake. The relays were 4 bucks each ($3.99).

[wattsup]

@ALL

I removed my six coils but I am not able to remove the center shaft from only one of them. So I went to another EE supply place this morning and found 8 more relays to hopefully have 12 coils in all.

Removing the coil was extremely easy but you need a grinder to grind down where the coil is held onto the support bracket. I explain the process in the images below as follows;

- How to remove a coil from a relay -

1) Remove the screws that hold the plastic cover and the back screw that holds the coil in place. Bend the small metal that holds the relay points in place (1A). Remove the spring and remove the relay points. Snip off the wires between the socket base and the bottom of the relay making sure you get the longest wire length possible for the two wires going to the coil. Grind down the excess from where the coil screw was attached (1B).

2) Bend the relay bracket (2A) at the grinding point to release the metal shaft that goes through the coil.

3) Coil shown removed from the relay bracket.

4) Put the coil screw back into the screw thread of the coil shaft.

5) Place the coil with screw facing upwards so that the other side of the coil is supported at a higher point.

6) Hit the screw with a hammer hard enough to push the shaft downwards.

7) Use a longer convenient metal bar (screwdriver bit worked fine) and hit it with a hammer to push the coil shaft out of the coil spool.

8) Shows coil shaft removed from the spool.

9) Out of 6 relays, one of them (9A) could not be removed because of some excess glue that must have entered between the coil shaft and the coil spool during the manufacturing process. One coil had part of the spool broken but I think it is still OK to use. Four came out very well.

I will do the same for the other relays until I can get 12 coils.

Then I have to make a wheel and start playing. hehehe

wattsup

[mariuscivic]

Hi guys!
This is my toy for now; still working on it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVkhjjr4Ovc&feature=youtu.be

[conradelektro]

@wattsup: nice relays. My experience also shows that one has to come up with a technique to remove the coil from a relay. Sometimes it helps to drill a hole at a strategic place, specially to remove the core. Grinding or filing helps to remove parts which have been glued, soldered or casted. The first attempts are the most difficult and coils are easily damaged, then one usually sees the right way. Each type of relay poses different problems, bigger relays are easier to handle.

Wattsup, could you please measure the DC resistance of your coils (with the Ohm-meter)? I do not know your goal, but if it is low power consumption (like 1 µA on average as with Lasersaber's 3D-prinbted motors) the DC resistance (or inductance, which is more difficult to measure) is the main factor.

@mariuscivic: I could not watch your YouTube movie, may be you are changing it just now?

Greetings, Conrad

[wattsup]

@conradelektro

Yes I measured my coils and put up an image. Out of 14 relays I managed to remove  11 coils successfully because the others presented problems of inner center shafts being very tight. Any overexertion with the hammer and the coil wire cuts somewhere that is impossible to see.

I will have to find another coil so I will go to a third EE store today.

I wonder if we can buy these coils from the manufacturer before they make relays with them. hehehe

My average coil specs are as follows;

Designed for 24VDC.
0.179 H
0.480 kOhm

Once I measured the inductance, I simply set the scale to capacitance and it gave a reading of 0.52 uF.

I will try to make a wheel like @Lasersabers but of course I do not have the 3D printing capability. I want to work on a design that will allow some flexibility on magnet and coil positioning so I can play around in more then one physical delimitation.

I also want to find three more coils but slightly bigger to mix in with the other coils in various configurations.

I am thinking of a design that will have retractable stems for both the rotor magnets and pick-up coils. That would allow me to bring the 12 coils either tightly together or slightly separated apart. The other main criteria is to be able to change the number of rotor magnets without having to make a new rotor. I still have some ceramic bearings so I will probably use that.

Anyways, I am still a while away from getting it all done and will provide info as it progresses.

wattsup