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Overunity Machines Forum



OVERUNITY DEVICE

Started by magnetman12003, October 04, 2013, 07:36:25 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

Farmhand

All good point's TK, and a simple question just to clarify the use of the clamp on current meters.

Am I right to say that when we zero the meter the clamp should not be on or around the wire being measured ?
To ask it more clearly. Should we zero the meter before clamping the meter around the wire so that the meter reads zero before it is clamped around the wire ?

Of course that is what I do, I zero it, then clamp it on the wire to get the reading. I never put too much faith in the accuracy of my meter even though it is a good one, firstly because it is a clamp meter and if I want an accurate low current reading I will use other means, and secondly because the DC ampere measuring function of my meter is affected
quite a bit by a draining meter battery and I use rechargeable 9 volt batteries in my meters even though non rechargeable batteries are recommended for longer life and reliability.

I've seen Tom use the very same silver box which I think contains the coil switching circuit to claim over unity several times with different spinner setups.

I built a 40 kHz boost converter and used almost all good parts, 1N5822 Schottky diodes low resistance coils of 1 mm wire, low "on" resistance mosfets, good driver chip, very clean signals and switching, thick wires, paralleled output capacitors ect. but still the efficiency is only just over 90 % at the most efficient power level. The only thing that gets warm at 60 Watts input is the coil cores, they are cheap iron powder cylinders and too small I think, anyway it is a good boost converter, picaxe controlled for voltage and duty. I use it often and it is a very useful device, I can program it to charge a battery then turn off, of course. Synchronous rectification is the next step to better efficiency if I want or need it.

Cheers










TinselKoala

If you can't turn the device off, then yes, you should close the jaws completely, off the wire, then zero the meter. Then clamp the meter around the current-carrying wire you wish to measure. If you can assure that the wire is off, not carrying any current, then you can clamp the meter around the wire, zero it, then turn the equipment on so the wire carries current for your measurement. Either way, the jaws must be completely closed for the measurement to be accurate, and you are right, an inline meter will usually be more accurate than a clampon, especially in the presence of stray EM fields like come from a rotating bunch of magnets and/or a big drive coil and its electronics.

What I see in the video is someone trying to sell a device, claiming it is overunity, and citing power measurements that he says support his claim. But the "measurements" are based on consumer-grade digital multimeters and wattmeters that have unknown calibrations, and at least one of the primary instruments is clearly being used incorrectly. Instead of showing correct, proper measurements with actual power meters that really do support his claim, the claimant chooses to rationalize what he _did_ show, with excuses that I consider to be bogus. This, to me, means that proper measurements will likely _not_ support his claim... and that he knows it.

In addition... power is not energy.

MileHigh

It's a joke, he doesn't even show a bloody LOAD.  He just makes two measurements, one of which is totally ridiculous and proves that clamp-on meters get pretty scrambled near a coil switching on and off at high frequency.  He doesn't even have any concept of a load, he just makes two measurements and is comfortably numb with respect to the concept of a LOAD.  He ran away right away and has been lurking ever since.  No passing GO, no collecting of $10,000.

MileHigh

synchro1

@MH,


       I believe the reward for passing go is merely $200.

Pirate88179

In addition to all of the points made prior to my post, this topic was posted in the "Devices Applied For The O.U. Prize" which, I think at last count, is nearing somewhere around $20,000.  So, to me this is worse than just attempting to sell a device for ten grand with such flimsy "proof", there is the question of the prize also.

Now I have no idea if this fellow is a scammer, or actually believes that he has done it.  If the latter, then he has received a lot of good advice on how to better measure his device.  If he chooses not to do this, and does not withdraw his claim, then I guess we all will have to make up our own minds.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen