Reactive Generator Research for everyone to share

[gotoluc]

Hi Luc,
  I've been doing a few tests (will do more tomorrow I hope) - using a universal motor from a vacuum cleaner. So far the results are horrific... 

In standard mode - the motor uses 15-17watts to do 80Hz. Using an MOT and capacitor switch box (made for rotoverting) - it's more like 300 watts. There is no 'tuning' as such - more capacitance = more speed = many more watts...

Can you please tell us more about the motor you're using?

Regards
Tim

Hi Tim,

read what I have already written about attaching an Inductive load.

I will only help when you do the basic test. That's already difficult enough to master.

Luc

[hartiberlin]

Dear Luc,
I had another closer look at your video and your scopeshots again.

Well, surely you have done a lot of work with it, but here are some
flaws that you might adress:

1. Your input Watt meter measures the power input INCLUDING calculating in the Power Factor
cos Phi.
Normal House Watt Meters unfortunately don´t do this , so you pay also the reactive current that you
pump back to the power station and that is just oscillating between your house and the power station.

That is , why there are some devices that shift the phase angle always to zero to reduce your power bill.
(but this is a different topic)

2. In the scope shots you have around 36 Volts to 48 Volts input and always around 1.6 Amps input current
(Absolute values without phase shift relation)
and in the last scopeshot ,which you posted , the input Voltage is 148 Volts, so it is much higher, what you also state
in the video at around min 26:53 , but as you have scaled your div/cm on your scope differently it looks the same...
so a bit confusing on the first view..

But as I said, House Wattmeters only register the absolute values of the current and voltage, so your housewattmeter
will see in this last test an input of your red math curve at around 137.7 Watts.
(Multiply the red Math Voltage RMS with the red Current RMS values)
So you have to pay also the reactive power that you oscillate between your house and the power station.
Your digital wattmeter just only shows 49 Watts, but you have to pay 137.7 Watts...
so you are just oscillating the difference of around 89 Watts back and forth between your power station and your
drive motor there !


Okay, until now I only looked at what you have to pay for the power billed by your power station.
But this is a different question what is really happening in the circuit and if it will be possible to use this oscillating 89 Watts of reactive power
which oscillates back and forth between the power station and your drive motor without much loss and if we can tap
this power and convert it without creating too many losses into real power, that can heat your ohmic resistor as you have shown.

Okay, you oscillate 89 Watts reactive power and can generate from it around 3 Watts REAL POWER on a ohmic load.
So if you can scale this up and just only maybe oscillate 100 Watts of reative power between the power station and your circuits
and generate from it more than 100 Watts, you will have convinced me.

Surely it looks great, that the input power will not change at all, when at around min 27:30  when you switch on and off the load
and the voltage and current waveforms stay very stable !
But remember you oscillating 89 Watts back and forth and only get 3 Watts out from it, so maybe this is still in the measurement error
range...and it could also be some kind of Impedance matching, so that when you draw this 3 Watts of REAL POWER at the ohmic resistance,
the oscillating reactive power
could maybe be  reduced to 86 Watts, but the REAL POWER at the ditigal input power meter still stays at 49 Watts !
So you just oscillate less reactive power back and forth between you and the power station, but the REAL Power input stays the same at 49 Watts...
So this would be some kind of "reactive oscillation power impedance matching"....
I hope you can understand , what I mean...

It took me at least now 2 hours to ponder about it and write this now...but it is now very clear to me...!

Anyway, well done Luc, looking forward to see a scaled up version to see, if it is just impedance matching or if we can
really convert this way just "oscillating reactive power" to real ohmic heating power.

Regards, Stefan.

[vince]

Hi Luc
I'm not sure how you're going to reply to Stephan's post but I did some more tuning as per your suggestions. I was hoping you could help me interpret them.
Is there a next step?

[gotoluc]

Hi Luc
I'm not sure how you're going to reply to Stephan's post but I did some more tuning as per your suggestions. I was hoping you could help me interpret them.
Is there a next step?

Excellent experiment work and documentation Vince.

What we can see form you data is your plug-in watt meter is not capable of giving you a linear reading!... we can see it makes sudden jumps in watts with a small change in capacitance. I get the same thing when I use a 120vac Mot but when I use the 220vac Mot it's much more stable since the primary inductance is double of the 120vac version. That inductance change makes a big difference on the shape of the current sine wave. It's very clean and easier for the plug in watt meter to read.

As you can see something is happening. I would encourage you to now start at 40uf and add 1uf at a time and see what happens. This is your ideal range. If your watt meter starts bouncing around display 0, 4, 8, 2 and so on you may be at the ideal balance point. You should be able to get 15 to 18 watts on your 1k Ohm Load Resistor.
If you had a generator like I have and plug in your Mot circuit you would see it causes no load to the generator.

There are other things that can be done with the circuit. Keep experimenting and sleeping on it and new ideas will come to you to try and see what happens.

Try to find yourself an old generator on craigs list or kijiji that the gas engine is not working or very old. Connect the gen head directly to a shaft of a 3600 rpm electric motor.  Just make sure the gen head has 220vac output as voltage will be what you want.

Wish you all the best in your experiments

Luc

[vince]

Thanks Luc

Just for your info I can use half the capacitance values and achieve similar power out calculations by using 2 115 volt MOTs together.
I just wired the primaries in series and the output in series with resistor across the series output.

Vince