Reactive power - Reactive Generator research from GotoLuc - discussion thread

[gotoluc]

One thing is for sure if the energy companies see people or hear of people doing this they will not be pleased, and take action. People have been put in jail for similar schemes involving the stealing of energy using various means by manipulating their grid.

What I don't get is if it is actually free energy then why can it not be done with a battery and true sine wave inverter, until extra energy is shown using a source of AC other than the grid I don't see valid gains.

Cheers

Hi Farmhand and everyone,

please note, this circuit idea is not to get a free lunch using the Grid.

I maybe attaching my test circuits to the grid (because it's convenient) to demonstrate what it can do but that is only for demonstration purposes and not the intended use of this circuit if in the end is proven to work.

Ideally the developed circuit would be fed by low impedance DC batteries as this research is a possible solution to give power to the poor people of this world who have no grid and no way to make a living or even live if the can't pump water to their crops.

So please try to help in a positive way instead of trying to find faults as I know you are quite a capable individual.

What would be needed next is a special circuit that would take high current lead acid battery DC and make AC BUT the circuit needs to handle the return (reactive circulating current) back to the batteries. An off the shelf Inverter cannot do this.
So if you can develop a DC to AC circuit that can do this you would be my hero.

Thanks for your time

Luc

[gotoluc]

Hi Luc,
if you have an 12 Volts DC to 120 Volts AC inverter, just try to power your AC drive motor with the inverter
from a 12 Volt battery and measure at the battery, if  drawing load from the generator will
see any increase into the inverter at the battery.

Okay, this adds losses from the inverter also, but this way you can see quickly  if the DC input power
changes, without needing a DC driving motor !

Regards, Stefan.

Good idea Stefan

I will see if I can find one. This will also eliminate the need to do a scope test on the motor (which I already did but did not post a video)

Luc

[gotoluc]

You are right.

The best way would be, if LUC would try it again with a high efficiency DC motor in front of his generator and
see, how much DC power he needs to drive the generator. If the DC power into the drive motor will also
not increase, he might be able to scale it up and use the MOT output also via a FWBR rectifier to charge up a supercap
and then run from it the DC motor and close the loop....
But this would probably require at least a factor 10 in MOT size as it seems to depend on iron core.

Maybe it can be done smaller with using higher frequencies and Ferrite transformers...

Regards, Stefan.

Stefan and everyone,

my most current tests are now leading me to believe the circuit needs a LOW Impedance power source.
My new double MOT circuit attached to the grid can now deliver 50 Watts and still maintain a 90 degrees phase shift but when I attach it to my 1000 watt Alternator generator I can only get 29 watts max without affecting the prime mover.

This leads me to believe that my Alternator Impedance which is much higher than the grid is causing losses as the reactive re-circulating power is being wasted in Alternator coil resistance.

If we consider two of the supposed to be looped generator videos (Valy being the most recent) one thing they have in common is they have over size Alternators. Something in the range of 30KW or so.
Obviously these Alternators would have extremely low Impedance compared to mine and would not waste the return current and also deliver more because of the minimal losses.

So considering this, the possibility of looping my small scale setup is next to impossible. What we would need to do is come up with a solid state version of a Battery DC to AC switch (like suggested to Farmhand above post) and eliminate the generator and loses altogether.

Looking forward in the participation of the bright minds on this forum

Luc

[totoalas]

Free electricity while charging battery   part 3   .yt   dreamyear     

[MileHigh]

Permit me to make a suggestion.

I believe the essence of this is the presumption is that the power factor from the mains is zero wile still powering a small load, implying an exact 90 degree phase shift between the mains voltage and the current.  It appears that the power factor meter may not have sufficient resolution to show a true zero power factor.

If you set up the scope in x-y mode and make a lissajous figure, you will see a circle or a near circle when you look at the voltage and current in x and y and you adjust the variable gain of one channels to get as close to a circle as possible.  The problem is that it's hard to judge by eye if it is a true circle or if there is a slight phase shift from 90 degrees.

So the way around this problem is to shift the phase of the voltage or the current by another 90 degrees.  Now when you compare the current with say the 90 degree phase shifted voltage, you will see a diagonal line angled at 45 degrees.  If you don't see a perfectly straight diagonal line on the scope but instead see a long thin oval shape, that is telling you that the phase shift between the actual voltage and current waveforms is not exactly 90 degrees.  So this trick gives the scope display a way to show the deviation from the 90 degree phase shift very easily.

The only requirement is to create the 90 degree phase shift with a small circuit.  I am not going to get into the circuit itself, but my first thought is to use an op-amp as an input voltage integrator that is isolated from the mains power with a small step-down transformer.  It's a trivial circuit that could be powered by a pair of 9-volt batteries.  Since the circuit is isolated via the step-down transformer, there no problem connecting the op-amp ground to the scope ground.

If the whole thing worked properly, when Luc started to draw a small amount of power to go into his load, you would start to see the small phase shift on the scope display.  You also have the option to turn up the gain on both channels of the scope so you are only looking at a segment of the diagonal line.  That gives you more precision to detect any phase shift.  If you see two separate and distinct diagonal lines that would indicate that there was a tiny phase shift and thus a real power draw from the mains.

MileHigh