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Overunity Machines Forum



Inductive Pulse Switch.

Started by Tradie, February 18, 2014, 05:26:13 PM

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Tradie

#10
February 26, 2014, 10:58:23 PM
Hello Tim,

I put a 6 milli farad (the size of a pack of cards).
In parallel with the second Bridge.
It made no differance to the results.

The reason I say that it might lose power is beause I believe im getting some flyback from the PM motor/Generator.
This could have been an inverse wave cancelling out the input.
However it seems that this is not the case.

The Cap did not make the slightest of differance under load.
If I remove some of the lightbulbs the voltage will go even higher.

Tradie.

tim123

#11
February 27, 2014, 03:58:13 AM
Hi Tradie,
  Adding the cap should totally stop any ripple - and without one there would definitely be plenty. 6 milli Farads is a lot of capacitance...

It sounds like you need an oscilloscope mate. So you can see what's going on there.

If the output FWBR is genuinely putting out more than the input one - then you just need a (DPST) switch on it - to close the loop once it's up to speed... A switch is cheaper than a 'scope...

You know - the rotor on a Uni-motor - all the brush sections are connected... If you measure the resistance between any 2 pads - it should be the same. The brushes basically 'divide' the rotor coil into two - and there's always current running through *all* the rotor windings.

So that means your 2nd set of brushes on the rotor are *electrically connected* to the input supply. So they contain that current plus any current derived from their motion within the stator field.

EDIT: Not only that - but they will 'short-circuit' the rotor - to an extent - reducing the flux in the rest of the rotor - and presumably decreasing it's torque(?)

Hope that helps... :)
Tim

Tradie

#12
March 01, 2014, 04:25:39 AM
Tim,

Yep that was my drama, the old commoned up commutator trick.
I was hoping to get away without rewiring the rotor but shit happens.

Thanks,
Tradie.

tim123

#13
March 01, 2014, 04:42:02 AM
No probs. Happy to be able to help. I wouldn't have been able to a year ago. :)

I think re-wiring one of those rotors would be pretty hard...
What's your aim - maybe there's a simpler way?

Tradie

#14
March 01, 2014, 03:18:05 PM
Tim,

Once I removed the old windings it was pretty easy.
Its running a little hot so i'm starting again with more turns and less coils.
The aim is for mechanical switching mid stream of the motor.
Hoping to be able to negate back emf.

Thanks,
Tradie.
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