Inductive Pulse Switch.

[Tradie]

Thanks Floor,

I have heard the water heating technique mentioned but it raises other variables yet again.
I've got a few thermocouples here so if i get desperate ill rig them up.

The "4 X 100W load" is just an approxiamation of what it should be using at 240V.
The now not so common light bulb is just a handy way to add or remove a load through multiple light sockets wired in parallel.
It is definitly bright and sure does burn my hand if i dont use gloves when removing them so it sure has some "power" there just not exact on how much.

Tradie.

[Tradie]

G'day Tim,

Check out my videos and they will give you a visual of the below.

The "thing" with the two brushes is a universal motor.
Ive machined a bracket that allows me to install multiple brushes onto one commutator.

The '2nd set is the 2nd set of brushes. Ive found that I can transfer maximum power when the brush is set closest to the primary brush set.
I get different results with the angle of the brushes and also when I split the secondary brushes out of alignment.

The "Inductive Pulse Switch" is as follows.
1.Supply pushes voltage into the coil of the motor and charges the coil, in normal motors this is where it all ends. The motor spins and voila mechanical torque.

2.In this motor the capacitance left in the rotor coil is diverted back into another load.

3.The second set of brushes is where the switching exists, Which is why its in the mechanical section.
   The only electronic part of this machine is the diodes. Induction pulse switch is the best I can describe for the mean time.

4.I have had some successes in using the secondary brushes to divert power back into the motor, shown through increased RPM's.
   To do this I mechanically coupled two motors with double brush sets to each other. The mechanical coupling provided the timing.
   The circuit worked a little like a figure 8 shuffling backwards and forwards between each other.

Under all the other testing procedures Voltage was always lower, which was expected.
The power must travel through the primary motor before it can reach the secondary, plus losses through both sets of brushes and sparking.
Having a higher voltage under load doesnt make a whole lot of sense to me and thats my hangup.

Tradie.

[tim123]

Hi Tradie,
  thanks for the explanation. It's an interesting line of reasearch.

It sounds like you're getting a high-frequency ripple in the output signal that's confusing the DMM.

I notice in your diagram that there's no smoothing cap on the output FWBR. Perhaps if you add one the results would change?

Regards, Tim

[Tradie]

Hello Tim,
Yes they do change, but if i cant understand whats happening at this juncture then moving forward or sideways is only guessing.
Ive tried putting yet another FWB across the resistive load to remove any AC but it doesnt seem to work.
On the Load side of the 2nd FWB I still get both AC and DC voltages and currents.

For instance in one test im using 136VDC supply.
After the primary brushes im recording 121VDC at 2.6A and 58VAC at 4.5A
after the secondary brushes im recording 116VDC at 2.5A and 4VAC 7.6A
This experiment used in line analogue DC ammeters and changed the results.

I fear if I put a cap in then it will cancel out that ripple and automatically lose power.
At the moment I think im harvesting the DC coming from the motor as well as any harmonics etc. and these are adding to each other through the bridge.

Tradie.

[tim123]

Hi Tradie,
  Putting a (big as you can) cap in parallel with the load won't change the amount of power available. It'll just stop the ripple.

If you do that - and you meter reads less -which it probably will - you've not 'lost' power - you've just got an accurate measurement - whereas before you didn't.

If you do that and it still reads more - then let us know.

Regards, Tim