3v OU Flashlight

[magpwr]

I have 510 picoFarads.

Current schematic:

hi TinselKoala,

I just saw the latest version of schematic you posted this morning.

The version i was trying to convey to you last night-The "Led needs to be connected to resistor in series" then connect in parallel with 1000uf capacitor.

Looking at this version of schematic and zooming into the role of I/C:4069 which is used merely to invert signal from one of the gates.

I am just thinking if using 2n3906 or any high hfe pnp  transistor to do the same job of inverting signal to npn transistor .For my case for npn transistor it would be tip31c or BDX34 (A...C).

[TinselKoala]

hi TinselKoala,

I just saw the latest version of schematic you posted this morning.

The version i was trying to convey to you last night-The "Led needs to be connected to resistor in series" then connect in parallel with 1000uf capacitor.

Looking at this version of schematic and zooming into the role of I/C:4069 which is used merely to invert signal from one of the gates.

I am just thinking if using 2n3906 or any high hfe pnp  transistor to do the same job of inverting signal to npn transistor .For my case for npn transistor it would be tip31c or BDX34 (A...C).

Aahh... I drew the schematic wrong. The capacitor is tied to ground, so it is wired as you say, not as I have in the schematic, if I am understanding you. I'll have to change the graphic right away. I just put it into a new video, too. Gaaahhhh, there is always a typo somewhere. Thanks for pointing it out.

Sure, a transistor makes more sense than using a single gate of a hex inverter. But the earlier version that Akula posted of this schematic, and maybe a device, had all the gates being used to light up a couple more LEDs, and so the inverter chip is a "legacy" leftover from that. Even though those LEDs don't really participate in the "free energy" part of the circuit. So he cut them out of the schematic.

By the way, I am trying to track down the person who drew up the schematic I am using and posting, to thank him or her. I see, I think, that it was first posted here by 4Tesla, and carries the name of Vadik Guk. I know it was added to a bit by verpies, and I've posted my own changes and values into it as well. I really would like to give credit to everyone who helped make that schematic image.

[TinselKoala]

In the closeup below you can see the three elevated pads for the LEDs. The black cylinder is the 1000 uF cap, its negative lead is soldered to the ground plane and the red wire is its positive lead, going to the Anode pad of the Blue LED. The Cathode pad of the White LED is connected to the 220R which is then connected to the ground plane. So I got the wiring right but the schematic insert wrong.

I tried the 220R but I think I'll go back to the 100R.

[TinselKoala]

The schematic was derived by a couple of fellows at Overunityresearch, I may not be at liberty to post their detailed work. I will check in with them, or since they read here,  they can chime in.

I'll see if I can post you a link: http://www.overunityresearch.com/index.php?topic=2420.msg38115#msg38115

The heatsinks are just insurance should I get into a saturation condition when I hook up the inductor, never hurts to have a little extra heatsinking, besides if this doesn't work as advertised, I would like to use the driver for other experiments. I will also be driving some larger ferrites, perhaps from a power supply so I can watch the power consumption as I tune.

I used 220 ohm load resistors so that I could observe the switching without a lot of ringing etc, it is just a first step to see if everything is working correctly, then I will build the rest, including putting in some of the transient protection diodes and a properly wound and gapped ferrite core, MnZn type.

I know about LED's non-linearity, they are not necessarily the only devices I will use as a load test.

I am well aware of the limitations of a 9 Volt battery, and I do not expect any serious overunity.

The Miller clamps are specified as 2n3703, but faster devices could be used if needed.

I'm using IRF530's because I have them on hand, 14A 100V, nanosecond switching ability 0.16 ohm rds(on)

Should I perhaps not be posting here? I haven't done so in a few years but was very active in the past.

I lost a nice long answer to this.... but please DO keep posting here, and in the other thread that is now working again, if the images there can get sized down....

Thanks for your answer and details. I'm going to use the NTE374 for the clamps when I build it up, I think. I just mentioned the 9v battery as the example of the maximum sustained current that could reasonably be expected to contribute to mosfet heating; the big sinks are a joke if the only thing you intended to use the circuit for was Akula stuff, but you are making more of a general purpose item and maybe you will encounter mosfet heating. I know it can happen very quickly when it happens. But we live for the thrill, don't we?

[TinselKoala]

Scoposcopy meets Akula:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHAc7kDY4-w