Carlos Benitez patent No.17811 circuit drawing self runner

[Jeg]

Hi Jeg,
"Without a tap in the middle part of the coil,"
I don't see a center tap in your drawing. I have not tried this but ,this is similar to what my circuit is doing (I think).

Antimony, Instead of screws for brushes try using old guitar strings that's what I use.
artv

Hi Shylo
Sorry for the confusion. There is not any tapping anywhere in Benitez circuit. I mentioned "tapping" because in the conventional point of view of his circuit, there is not any meaning by connecting two diodes like that except if there was a tap in the middle. But as i mentioned above, the induction that happens is not magnetic.

[sm0ky2]

My experience with the parallel output diodes is
the coil must be isolated and not tapped
(if tapped just don't use the center wire).
The ideal scenario is a secondary on a transformer,
And not electrically connected to anything else but the diodes.
The physics go far beyond that of a simple rectifier
Due to the electromagnetic induction vs
Current blockage/flow.
This allows for a portion of the electrical power
To carry on in its' current state into a cycle in the future.


The closest thing our current model can relate this to would be
The magnetic capacitance of the inductor at a given freq. and amplitude.
(Depending on your schooling this may be known also as a capacitive reactance.)


At specific freq. vs impedance nodes this effect carries out for more that one cycle
Which over a given time, becomes quantitative.


This is not 'free energy' or over unity in the perspective in which we perceive it.
Rather it should be recognized as infinitely increasing flow of energy from the source.
Like filling a lake behind a dam

[Reiyuki]

Hi guys.  I am making a commutator, like the one in Benitez first patent, and it has been fun, it have been a very rewarding project until now when i am close to being done with it.
I have finished about 90% of it, but i can't figure out how I should attach the copper sheet metal that i have cut out.
First i was thinking about fastening them with screws, but i don't think that's a good idea.
I am using screws for brushes, so I'm afraid that they will get hooked on the copper if it doesn't lay flush with the wooden rod.

Do anyone have any thoughts they would like to share?

Permanent or removable?

If permanent, 2-part epoxy or JB-weld would probably outlast the rest of the commutator.

If semi-removable, I'd consider trying super-glue or hot-glue.  Both are removable with heat, the only difference being amount of heat.
Machinists use superglue a lot to hold and machine thin/ackward shaped parts.  http://www.cnczone.com/forums/novakon-systems/246774-thin-metal-work-holding-super-glue-rescue.html


Either way, I'd play with the solution on a test-fixture before doing it on the final product.  You'll probably get the best hold by roughing-up both ends with sandpaper first.

[antimony]

Nice project
Engraving wood perhaps? Sticking it with epoxy? I would use a mechanical rpm multiplier if it is to be used by hand. With little effort you can build a great experimental rotary switch. Keep it up

I used some kind of Epoxy that's called "chemical metal" or "kemisk metall" and that turned out great so far.
I haven't tested it yet, but I will soon I hope.
I tried it out for a TS commutator with three Cu squares that are spaced out 60 degrees from each other.
I began today to epoxy the Benitez one.

Shylo: How do you use guitar strings as brushes?  Can you explain or post a picture I would be much grateful.

/F.

Thanks for all the advice everyone. 

[allcanadian]

A commutator is really no different in it's function than the cam and points of an ignition system. It makes absolutely no sense to build a commutator when it is much easier to cut some small wood cylinders with a hole saw then grind them into an eccentric cam profile on your bench grinder then stack the cams on a threaded rod which rotates to activate one or more contact switches. In this way you can also change the timing of any individual cam/switch on the fly and easily modify it as needed.

You need a drill, a hole saw, a file or grinder, a threaded rod and some contact switches...too easy. Not to mention the obvious fact that one could integrate both low voltage contact switches and rotary spark gaps on the same timing/sequencer shaft which is very difficult to do any other way:).

AC