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Overunity Machines Forum



Partnered Output Coils - Free Energy

Started by EMJunkie, January 16, 2015, 12:08:38 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 8 Guests are viewing this topic.

tinman

Quote from: MileHigh on June 21, 2015, 03:22:41 AM
This is just as valid as an i7 with a fancy GUI.

Can you make a phone call on it?
Can you go onto the net with it?
Dose it take pictures?
Were super strong neo magnets available back in those day's?.

You are comparing a hot air balloon with a jet liner MH-->you know,the apples and oranges.

tinman

Quote from: EMJunkie on June 21, 2015, 04:05:06 AM
Tinman presents his device, rather well done if I may say!!!

Poor Tinman cops the Wrath of the Ignorant!

Tinman is now getting Ostracised because he shows something amazing by the now few, Ignorant!

See why I refuse to give these Fools any Data Tinman!

   Chris Sykes
       hyiq.org

P.S: You people should be Utterly Ashamed of yourselves! How childish of you supposed Adults! The Human Race could certainly do without you bunch!!!

It's all good EMJ
MH always questions everything,and likes data handed to him on a silver platter.
I know you dont believe this,but the rest of the crew are pretty fair(MarkE,PW,TK etc),and i dont have a problem showing result's,as i have misinterpreted my findings on many occasions.

woopy

Hi Tinman

Thank's for the circuit

Will experiment it on my motor without rewinding the stator coil to see.

Can't wait for your next video with the 2 caps

Good luck at all

Laurent

tinman


MileHigh

Okay Tinman, you got me all fired up so I decided to look into this and look at the clip again.  I know that I am being bitchy and perhaps too sensitive, but it is because of a history of poor presentations from you in the past with sloppiness, no schematics or poor schematics and and your seeming lack of awareness that people need to do lots of mental gymnastics to compensate for your shortcomings in your presentations.  It's a real pain in the ass sometimes.

All that being said, let's move on.

Just to be bitchy, you quote Woopy but he makes a mistake and you don't notice.  It's your data and you should take ownership of it.

QuoteIf i understand correctly , when there is no load, the motor draws about 27.7 watts (13.4 volts x 2.07 A )

when the bulb is on your motor draws about 10 watts ( 13.4 V x 0.75 A ) and the generator produces about 18 watts (10.4 V x 1.64 A)

Why is Woopy able to produce accurate measurements from the video MH,and you cannot?.

We don't have to worry about the no-load condition for the analysis.

I see the draw of the motor under load is about 12.8 volts x 0.74 amps = about 9.5 watts.   Woopy used the peak voltage and not the RMS voltage and you didn't notice.

I see the output to the bulb as about 10.4 volts x 1.64 amps = about 17 watts.  Either you or Woopy screwed up the multiplication but you didn't notice.

Do you see what I mean?   If you just posted your link to your clip and posted your own bloody data and your own number crunching this kind of bullshit would not happen.  The real question is not about a little word game that "I can't multiply" - it's about not being sloppy and making a proper presentation and taking ownership of your presentation from start to finish.  There are two mistakes that you didn't even notice.  They are not major mistakes, but it's the principle.

Okay, moving on:

Apparent motor draw under load: 9.5 watts
Apparent power to bulb:  17 watts

Mark already talked about more filtering to make sure the the ammeter for the bulb load was not thrown off.   Let's just focus on that.

Now, it's very difficult to judge bulb brightness and wattage.  Just for the sake of argument let's assume the issue is right there with the bulb power measurement.

Are we really looking at 17 watts?   What's the rated wattage for the bulb?   If you cup the bulb in your hand can you make a rough guestimate for the amount of heat power you feel in your hand?

But here is the real test.  I am assuming that you have another bulb and another bench power supply.  Just put a pure 17 watts of DC power through the second bulb and compare the brightnesses of the two bulbs.  Are they approximately the same or not?  Then swap the bulbs and repeat the test.

Now, if the bulb with 17 watts of DC going through is much brighter and you can feel much more heat from that bulb then you are busted.  Did you think of doing this before you made this presentation?

If the power measurement going to the bulb is the problem, then here is a possible scenario:

Total system power draw:  9.5 watts.
Power burnt off in spinning rotor:  3 watts
Power burnt of in bulb:  6.5 watts.

What if you put about 6.5 watts of DC power though the bulb, how bright does it look?   Is it comparable to what you see in your test under load?

Now what I just said is a process of thinking that you should be doing yourself.  I am under the impression that you don't think like that.

I have no clue if I am on the right track, but at least it stirs the pot for you.  If you did not think about doing a pure DC equivalent brightness test yourself then that was a fail because you should know by now.

Some things that you do know are that voltage and/or current spikes can throw off meters.  You also know that whatever coil shorting business you do will almost certainly generate voltage/current spikes.

One thing that you may not know is that your big fat electrolytic smoothing capacitor may not be filtering out some high frequency voltage or current spikes because big fat electrolytic caps do a very poor job of filtering out high frequencies.

The DC-equivalent A-B brightness test is something that I strongly advise you to do.

MileHigh