Partnered Output Coils - Free Energy

[synchro1]

Ok, Let's be a bit nice to Tinsel too.    You might be right about the oscillating magnets.  The mass , center of mass , the distances and the strength of magnetic field might (and does) play role here too.  On the picture you can see my set-up. Two magnet discs on long magnet bar and in my hand I am holding the pulsing coil (yes Tinsel, there are not wires from that coil , I did this picture after I performed the test and I was lazy to put them back   ) In any case I was pulsing it from 3Hz up to 45Hz and as my frequency was rising so did the vibration of magnets - unfortunately. May be I did something wrong

In the back you can see my set-up of backed air core coils I play with. My ratio is there around 1:20 and I am getting HV on the cental tap. Some interesting effects there as well. May be I will do my fist YouTube video ever for you
Cheers,

@John.k1,

Let me point out that the coil in the "Dancing Magnets" video is a neutralization coil, and that it's the magnetic attraction of the speaker magnets to the ferrite toroid beneath the coil windings that's causing the magnets to oscillate, not the force of an electro-magnetic coil pulse. What the coil in the video does is mask the magnetic attraction to the ferrite. A very different kind of test!

[John.K1]

Hi Synchro, I didn't get it.  Does that means that you magnetize the ferrite toroid beneath the coils?  If i good understand, both poles are actually sitting on the ferrite- so which pole you neutralize? 

[TinselKoala]

Attached please see a circuit from Jean Louis Naudin for amplification of a signal from the Function Generator. I will use 10 to 15 Volt from the power supply (not up to 80 Volt like Naudin). A shunt of 10 Ohm in series with the primary should result in about 1 Watt through the primary.

Any ideas? Good way of doing it?

I also have a 12 Watt mono audio amplifier, but this would need a rewind of the coil with thicker wire.

Greetings, Conrad

Your schematic is a 100 percent bog-standard lowside switch arrangement.

You can use any N-channel mosfet. For good response time your FG should deliver 8-10 volts peak to the Gate. I would use a mosfet with lower Rdss, like IRF3205 or similar (55V, 110 A, 0.008 ohm Rdss); the IRF840 has higher voltage but lower current capability and will dissipate much more power internally so may need a heatsink (500V, 8A, 0.850 ohm Rdss) ;  with the 3205 you won't even need a heatsink if you are only driving one watt through it. For higher powers (that is, more supply voltage and less load resistance) you can change to a TO-247 power mosfet like IRFP260N.

The pulldown resistor is too low a value in the schematic. This is there only to allow the gate charge to be removed from the mosfet so it will turn off cleanly. You can use 100K here or even higher, especially at low pulse frequencies. If you pulse with a symmetrical squarewave (negative as well as positive pulses) you don't even need a resistor here at all, the negative part of the drive pulse will turn the mosfet off _hard_. Just don't exceed the maximum gate voltage (usually 20 V wrt Source) with either polarity of the drive pulse. It is common to put a low-value resistor in series with the gate pulse (10 or 100 ohm) to limit current in case the mosfet fails shorted.

Depending on the inductive backspike when the mosfet turns off and what you want to do with the spike, you may or may not want to install an ultrafast high current diode, reverse biased, across the coil, or across the mosfet from Drain to Source to supplement the internal body diode.

[MileHigh]

Why don't you guys start a separate oscillating magnets thread because it has nothing to do with the partnered output coils?

[MileHigh]

Conrad, TK:

The issue that I have with the low-side MOSFET switch is that I don't believe that it is the right type of excitation as called for in Chris' documents.  The MOSFET alternates between a low impedance drive signal and then a high impedance disconnect.  I believe the "correct" drive signal would come from a continuously connected sine wave voltage source like from an audio amplifier.

I think a handy drive signal source would be a cheap car audio amplifier.  It runs off of 12 volts and has a differential pair output.  I believe that they are basically giant operational amplifiers.  If you get a really powerful car audio amp then it's current sourcing and current sinking capabilities must be quite high.  In other words it's a "stiff" variable voltage source, to use MarkE's terminology.

MileHigh