Partnered Output Coils - Free Energy

[synchro1]

Dude you posted the power to the LED (3W) and the LED efficacy (80.55 l/W).  The 241 lumen value falls directly out from your numbers.  If you are unhappy with them, that is your problem.

Light meters measure luminous intensity: lux, not luminous power: lumens.    In order to get lumens accurately you need to scan and integrate intensity throughout the surface of a spherical projection surrounding the light source.

A typically night light is a little 7W incandescent bulb.  Here is are a couple of examples:  7W ~20 (frosted)- ~40 lumens (clear) each

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3514/IN-0007C7CL130X.html?utm_source=SmartFeedGoogleBase&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=IN-0007C7CL130X&utm_content=C7+-+Clear+Light+Bulbs&utm_campaign=SmartFeedGoogleBaseShopping&gclid=CLCDvNbi0cMCFZCIaQodj6gAPQ

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/5446/IN-0007C7W.html?utm_source=SmartFeedGoogleBase&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=IN-0007C7W&utm_content=C7+-+Frosted+Light+Bulbs&utm_campaign=SmartFeedGoogleBaseShopping&gclid=CIWxuojj0cMCFQeKaQodkLkAQA

http://www.elightbulbs.com/Bulbrite-709105-5C7C-Night-Light-Bulb&source=GoogleBaseCSE?gclid=CI7MuKnj0cMCFY4AaQodAK8AXQ

The CFL spec you quoted:  1800l/26W is about 69l/w, not much less than the 80.55l/W efficacy of the LED you quoted.  Incandesent bulbs put out about 11l/W in the 25W range and 17l/W in the 100W range.

@MarkE,

Most people know what a 40 watt bulb looks like when lit, or a 100 watt bulb. You have no idea what 261 lumens looks like. I do! This last comment of yours is just a bunch of screwy shit to cover the fact that you don't have a clue. You're just some kind of stinking imposter acting like big authority.

[synchro1]

Of course, I agree.  I just posted this to show synchro that you can light a mains bulb on an AA battery very brightly and it not be O.U.

Bill

@Pirate88179,

You would need to build a light box to test in to know for sure. I wouldn't rule OU out that quickly. At the very least it's close enough to test. Did you see Diveflyfish's "Sergdo Transformer" video?

[synchro1]

Here's how it Works. Below is the efficiency range for LED lamps (30 to 90} Lumens to watts. How do you find out about this? Read the package!

"LED lamp 30-90 lm/W".

Woopyjump's package clearly states the efficiency is 90 Lumens to watts. Right at the top of the efficiency range. That means fully lit 90 X 35 = 3190; His bulb produces 3190 Lumens of light intensity. He achieves this with .6 watts of input power! The manufacturer states it takes 3 watts at 220 volts. That means woopyjump has increased the overall operating efficiency by 5 times. Diveflyfish is up to 40 times with the same transformer!

Anyone who has a light intensity meter or "Lux" meter can easily visualize the difference between 261 and 3190 lumens of light intensity. That's 12 times brighter! That's the difference between a 10 watt and 120 watt bulb. That's like the difference between your glove box light and an emergency search light. There are people on this thread like MarkE and TinselKoala who are working too hard to cover up these extraordinary COP'S.

[conradelektro]

I did again some tests with my "partnered output coils" and the audio amplifier.

The set up and the circuit are like before, see e.g.

http://overunity.com/15395/partnered-output-coils-free-energy/msg437101/#msg437101 (look here to find the circuit diagram and a photo of the set up, measurement with R1 = 10 Ohm and R1 = 100 Ohm)

There is a 1 Ohm resistor R1 in series with the primary H1, like in this test:

http://overunity.com/15395/partnered-output-coils-free-energy/msg437145/#msg437145 (look here for results with R1 = 1 Ohm)


But his time I removed the clips which hold the two core halves of my coil together. Without the clips I can place the core halves closer together or further apart. This of course influences the coupling between the primary H1 and the secondary H2 + H3.

The attached photo shows the core halves together and then only one core have inserted and the other almost out of the coil former. Further out had no more influence.

Measurement 1 (R1 = 1 Ohm, core halves are together like in earlier measurements, this is just a control measurement)

Input:

100 mV 600 Hz sine from function generator
10 V ~30 mA idle and ~40 mA with load from power supply:

Va = ~2.7 V
Vp = ~ 2.7 V
R1 = 1 Ohm
I = (Va - Vp) / R1 = 45 mA (with DMM)
phase angle between R1 an H1 ~ 0

Watt through primary = I * Vp = 0.045 * 2.7 = 120 mW  with DMM


Output:

Vo = 0.16
R2 = 10 Ohm
Io = Vo / R2 = 0.16  / 10 = 0.016
phase angle between H1 and (H2 + H3) ~ 40°

Watt through secondary or R2 = Io * Vo = 0.16 * 0.016 = 2.5 mW


Measurement 2 (the core halve underneath the primary H1 which was wound over one of the partnered output coils H2 is completely inserted, the core halve underneath the second partnered coil H3 is removed):

Input:

100 mV 600 Hz sine from function generator
10 V ~30 mA idle and ~340 mA with load from power supply:

Va = ~2.6 V
Vp = ~ 2  V
R1 = 1 Ohm
I = (Va - Vp) / R1 = (2.6 - 2) / 1 = 0.6 A (note: very high current)
control measurement over R1 with DMM = 0.7 A
phase angle between R1 anD H1 ~ - 6°

Watt through primary = I * Vp = 0.6 * 2 = 1.2 Watt (note: very high input power)


Output:

Vo = 1.2 V
R2 = 10 Ohm
Io = Vo / R2 = 1.2   / 10 = 0.12
phase angle between H1 and (H2 + H3) ~ 330°

Watt through secondary or R2 = Io * Vo = 0.12 * 1.2 = 144 mW (note: output has increased)


Remarks:

The core halve underneath H1 wound over H2 can not be removed (no more coupling between H1 and H2)

If the core halve underneath H3 is removed the bucking H3 has less coupling, hence it disturbs the output less, which leads to a higher output of (H2 + H3) of 140 mW, but the input to H1 rises considerably to 1.2 Watt.

If the core halve is gradually pulled out the situation gradually moves from Measurement 1 to Measurement 2 (input increases dramatically, output increases a bit)

This shows that the bucking arrangement of the "partnered output coils H2 + H3" is more or less killing all output (only a few mW)  if the coupling is good and the input is also very low (120 mW).

If the coupling is bad for the "second partnered output coil H3" the input rises very much (from 120 mW to 1.2 Watt) and the output rises a bit (from a few m to 140 mW).

Greetings, Conrad

[conradelektro]

When is someone going to invent a device that measures "radiant energy"  -  To add to the huge collection of devices we currently have that measures the difference between charge and discharge? (what everyone calls positive and negative)       On our current devices, only the best ones will even show the slightest bit of representation of radiant energy, as large voltage spikes and absolutely zero current, and it blowwwwwwwwwwwwwwws!   

Are there any ways other than using capacitors and batteries to capture radiant energy? ?  Ways that are not immediately releasing it in the form of light or heat....

The big problem: there is no radiant energy!

According to my understanding "radiant energy" is a word invented by some people who look for "something new".

Imagine a very "spiky" signal (e.g. a very narrow spike of 2000 Volt every millisecond):

- As an alternating current or as an intermittent direct current it has almost no energy (e.g. 1 µWatt).

- A "spiky" signal (like all alternating current) also emits radio waves (at a range of frequencies) of very little intensity (one can hardly measure this).

These two "energies" are known, and there seems to be nothing else.

Some people claim there also is "radiant energy" others claim there are also "scalar waves" emitted. But neither "radiant energy" nor "scalar waves" have ever been proven in a credible way. One may believe in them, but one can not prove them.

In OU forums some people write, speak or behave like there is "radiant energy" or like "scalar waves" exist. But you should not believe everything you see in OU forums.

Greetings, Conrad