Partnered Output Coils - Free Energy

[MileHigh]

MH
Below are two scope shot's.
the first is a screen shot from the first video. The blue trace is across the globe,and with only the small cap in play. We can see the ripple and spikes.
The second screenshot is from the second video where the large cap is in play. Once again the blue trace is across the globe.
Tell me again how the large cap is not smoothing out the pulses and ripples?.

Tinman, I am not going to directly answer your question but rather I am just going to comment and it goes back to the same themes that I had already mentioned.  These comments are rhetorical and for you to ponder:

How can I comment with the following?

1.  I already told you that a large electrolytic cap will not absorb and filter out high frequency content from any possible pulses but apparently you don't want to listen because you see a flat line.
2.  It's very possible to see a flat trace and the pulses that are possibly messing up the ammeter are in fact actually still there.
3.  I don't even know what the time base is for the lower picture.
4.  I don't even know what the trigger level is for the lower picture and for all I know the scope horizontal trigger is simply free running.
5.  I don't even know if you even tried to very carefully trigger on any possible pulses.
6.  My impression is that you are looking at a flat line and so you are "satisfied" and you are not trying to turn over every stone to find possible shortcomings.

[tinman]

Tinman, I am not going to directly answer your question but rather I am just going to comment and it goes back to the same themes that I had already mentioned.  These comments are rhetorical and for you to ponder:

How can I comment with the following?

1.  I already told you that a large electrolytic cap will not absorb and filter out high frequency content from any possible pulses but apparently you don't want to listen because you see a flat line.
2.  It's very possible to see a flat trace and the pulses that are possibly messing up the ammeter are in fact actually still there.
3.  I don't even know what the time base is for the lower picture.
4.  I don't even know what the trigger level is for the lower picture and for all I know the scope horizontal trigger is simply free running.
5.  I don't even know if you even tried to very carefully trigger on any possible pulses.
6.  My impression is that you are looking at a flat line and so you are "satisfied" and you are not trying to turn over every stone to find possible shortcomings.

I can assure you MH that i am trying to find the reason behind the measurements,but it is a bit hard to ask questions here without giving to much away. What i can assure you of is that the meters are reading correctly,and i have just redone the DC test using a lux meter. This confirms that the test i carried out in the second video using a DC power supply to compare the meter readings on the output of the device is correct,and the meter is within 12mA on the device output.

As i have stated before,i do have concerns elsewhere in the system,and i have sort help in that area. But the P/in and P/out are correct.

[picowatt]

Tinman,

As MarkE has already suggested, I would also like to see you put some decoupling caps on the motor side of your circuit.  Preferably, these decoupling caps would be placed directly across the brushes or at least directly across the terminal strips where the battery and ammeter connections feed the motor.

Before you do that, however, I would like to see what the input ammeter has been dealing with up to now.  Please connect your scope leads right at the terminal strip (as you did in the first video), switch the scope input to AC coupling and crank up the gain/sweep/trigger till we get a good shot of the brush pulses.  Once you can clearly see the brush pulses, apply caps as necessary across the brushes until you have quieted that measurement point.  I usually use a fairly large electrolytic, a .22uF poly, and a .1uF ceramic in parallel for such purposes, but a paralleled electrolytic and ceramic as MarkE suggested will likely be just fine as well.  You will know if the caps used are sufficient because you will be watching the effectiveness of their decoupling on the scope.  I would use the probes switched to 10X (if they are not already).

You can then do the same for the output side, though I suspect the motor side will be the noisiest.

Thanks for taking the time to make videos and sharing with us...

PW

Added:  Consider connecting the ceramic right at the terminal strip, placing its leads into the terminals with the motor's leads.  Keep the ceramic's leads as short as possible. 

[allcanadian]

@tinman

Below are two scope shot's.
the first is a screen shot from the first
video. The blue trace is across the globe,and with only the small cap in play. We can see the ripple and spikes.
The second screenshot is from the second video where the large cap is in play. Once again the blue trace is across the globe.
Tell me again how the large cap is not smoothing out the pulses and ripples?.

You are correct and the term large cap is meaningless, I have a large cap I built which is 10"x 10" and 3" thick rated at 50+Kv and it appears as an open circuit at low voltage. I could also build a large cap of the same dimensions with a very thin dielectric rated at near the max voltage expected of 60v and in your case it would work very well to smooth any transients. I could also build a very small HV cap which would not smooth any transients below say 5 Kv thus the notion of large and small are meaningless.
What we want in a smoothing cap is a capacitor with a voltage rating as close to the the max voltage expected as possible, sufficient capacity to absorb the transient and a low internal resistance, these are the properties we are looking for. The capacity of the cap is also important because if the rating is too small say 1 pF then the transient current may simply charge the cap to capacity and then keep on moving down the line.

AC

[picowatt]

@tinmanYou are correct and the term large cap is meaningless, I have a large cap I built which is 10"x 10" and 3" thick rated at 50+Kv and it appears as an open circuit at low voltage. I could also build a large cap of the same dimensions with a very thin dielectric rated at near the max voltage expected of 60v and in your case it would work very well to smooth any transients. I could also build a very small HV cap which would not smooth any transients below say 5 Kv thus the notion of large and small are meaningless.
What we want in a smoothing cap is a capacitor with a voltage rating as close to the the max voltage expected as possible, sufficient capacity to absorb the transient and a low internal resistance, these are the properties we are looking for. The capacity of the cap is also important because if the rating is too small say 1 pF then the transient current may simply charge the cap to capacity and then keep on moving down the line.
As well most electronics on the market I have seen have pathetic input power conditioning circuitry, I would fire the engineer who designed them because they are sub-standard in my opinion.
AC

AC,

The ESR (equiv series resistance) of modern caps is usually pretty good (better than days past anyways).  However, large value capacitors, which are typically of a wound layer construction, can have a rather large ESL (equiv series inductance) which increases the cap's series impedance at high frequencies and reduces its effectiveness at those higher frequencies.  Because of this, when decoupling high frequency noise, the capacitor's ESL is often more of an issue than its ESR.

When decoupling (quieting/stiffening) a supply rail, it is common to use a relatively large value low ESR cap for good low frequency decoupling and then place a smaller value low ESL cap in parallel with the larger cap to reduce the impedance at high frequencies.

A fairly large value low ESR electrolytic is good for decoupling low frequency noise and a smaller value ceramic cap, which typically have a low ESL, is often placed in parallel with the larger electrolytic for good high frequency decoupling.

Leads on the ceramic cap must be kept as short as possible to avoid excessive lead inductance which would effectively increase the ESL (and HF impedance) of the ceramic cap.  In high speed circuitry, the low ESL cap is usually positioned very close to and connected directly across a device's power pins.

PW