Skycollection's "Pentafilar Pancake" inductively coupled "Overunity Potential".

[TinselKoala]

@skycollection:

I encourage you to learn how to use and interpret your oscilloscope. From the display in your video we can see (although not properly triggered and stable) a signal that indicates very normal "joule thief" behaviour: That is, sharp pulses of higher voltage, with a shoulder that indicates the LEDs turning on, a relatively short "on" duty cycle, and a blank (off) space between them. 

The scope, when properly used and properly interpreted, will show you exactly what is happening in your circuit, and you will probably see that you are creating relatively high _peak power_ levels to the LEDs, but since there are those long "blank" spaces, the _average power_ output to the LEDs developed by your circuit will be less than the average input power. The difference is in waste heat (the components warm up slightly) and RF radiation (as your radio receiver indicates.)

Voltage amplification is not energy, peak power is not energy. Below you can see my HVJT, which lights up 6 each 90-volt NE-2 neons _in series_ from a single AAA battery delivering less than 1.3 volts. This circuit makes spikes that are in excess of 800 volts -- very short duration spikes. This is how it is able to boost the voltage so high. The neons look like they are continuously lit, but they are not. The -peak power- developed in this circuit is high... but the average power is low. People on this forum, in the long-running Joule Thief threads, have seen hundreds of LEDs lit up brilliantly on much less input voltage than you are using with your circuit. CFLs, too. The message here is that voltage amplification alone is not energy amplification, so please don't get too excited about it.


By the way, I really liked your PMBO entry, I thought it should have won the contest, perhaps in a tie with Tommey Reed's radial PM.

[skycollection]

Thanks VORTEX1 i have a similar circuit but i like yours, i apreciate your time, i would like to know more about this multi-vibrator, if you have some link and the applications, i would like to study the properties, i will make the circuit this week and make a test with the pancake coils. The zener diode 1N5817 is the same a "fast diode"...? how many volts...? i sow the link and is a schottky barrier rectifier, i have little diodes and i will try.
The .01 ufd is ceramic capacitor...? is not difficult to make, it uses the same transistors that i am using with different configuration.

[skycollection]

Tinselkoala, i understand your explanation and i will continue experimenting with my oscilloscope, i sow that my scope is not complete, i will try to study more about the use and specifications, (MY PROBLEM IS THAT I NEVER STUDIED ELECTRONICS) but i will the best i can.


About the entry 2014, i have a potential enemy, is ZERO FOSSIL FUEL, which attacked me with a stupid video  few years ago for no reason, for that  was my disqualification, this man needs urgent to visit A GOOD PSYCHIATRIST...![/size]

[Vortex1]

Hi Jorge

For best efficiency, you don't want to switch too fast, 30 pulses per second should be fine. You can adjust C1 and R1 as I said, but may get best results by adding a ferrite rod.

The circuit is generic and should be all over the net, I don't have any links, did it from my old memory.

TK:

Good advice on the scope use. I always enjoy seeing your innovative breadboards....like the battery holder in the last one with the anode adjuster! 

I have some neons with a Radium coating on the outside envelope, removed from old electronic equipment. I think the Radium was put on to lower the ionization voltage, but I haven't tested them yet . Can't wait to put those into a project, but need to find my lead suit.  I've also read somewhere that certain neons have radioactive doped electrodes.

Regards, Vortex1 / ION

[Void]

Hi Skycollection, an oscilloscope is useful if you want to look at the waveform shapes, but not essential
for what you are doing. It will probably be more useful and simpler for you to place a current meter (ammeter) in one of the
battery wires to measure the DC current coming from your batteries (or from your super capacitors). You can then multiply
the current you measure from the battery times the battery terminal voltage to get a fairly good idea of your input power.
Without making this measurement you just don't know how your circuit is performing at all. This is easy to do and would be a
good start if you are interested in trying to see how you circuit is really performing. Your circuit is working well, but LED lights can be
quite deceiving. The LED lights could be running at half power or less, and the LED lights can still glow quite brightly.
All the best...