Overunity motor, part3, all 4 recharging bats reading at 1.400 volts now.

[MarkE]

Has anyone actually scoped that circuit to see if it's actually oscillating?

As much as I czn make out the wiring with the dim lighting and shaky camera work, it does require oscillations to light the LED.  the latter part of the more recently linked video has entertainment value, because the "trigger coil" L1 does get set in a fairly thick walled aluminum tube that at 16kHz or so is a pretty good shield.  Tinman shows oscillation waveforms on the oscilloscope. 

[tinman]

As much as I czn make out the wiring with the dim lighting and shaky camera work, it does require oscillations to light the LED.  the latter part of the more recently linked video has entertainment value, because the "trigger coil" L1 does get set in a fairly thick walled aluminum tube that at 16kHz or so is a pretty good shield.  Tinman shows oscillation waveforms on the oscilloscope.

Yes it is oscillating,and the LED simply wont light with 1.2 volt's.
Mark-the motor casing is steel,not aluminum. It's just painted with an aluminum colored paint.
Sorry about the shaky camera work,but as you could hear,it was raining that day,and quite cold lol.

I should throw this one back together,and have a look around the circuit with my digital scope -now that i have one.

[TinselKoala]

Well... hmm.

So I built the LidMotor version from MarkE's redrawn diagram above. I wound two toroidal inductors to measure 1.0 mH each on my ProsKit meter; this required 32 turns of #33 on each toroid. I used a BC337-25 transistor as I do not have any MPSA06 on hand. A blue LED, a 1n4004 diode and a 220 ohm resistor completed the circuit. I used two depleted batteries for power instead of supercaps. The circuit needs to be "tickled" to get it started, and I found the easiest way is to tickle the cathode of the LED with a little piece of solder. The collector of the transistor also is a good place to "tickle" to start oscillation. I could not get it to stay on with a Red LED, just single flashes when tickled but no sustained oscillation. It works with Blue LED just fine. Have not tried other colors.

My impression is that the circuit does _NOT_ appear to work by coupling between the inductors! At least, moving or reorienting the L1 inductor appears to make no difference in behaviour of the circuit in terms of startup or LED brightness. I have not yet scoped the circuit.

(I'm still waiting for the "friend-funded" Rigol scope to arrive. Supposedly things have been delayed by the Longshoreman's strike on the West Coast container ports and it is not expected to get to me until the first week of April sometime.)

ETA: It still works with the L1 inductor 2 feet away connected by a twisted pair to the solder pads. Still needs to be tickled to start but once it starts, LED brightness, etc. is unchanged from the previous test.

[gyulasun]

Hi TinselKoala,

Just for fun, would you connect a capacitor between the collector and base of the transistor?     I do not know the oscillating frequency,  perhaps a 22 pF or maybe higher sounds good for a test I think in the some 10 kHz range.  Then check whether oscillation starts for battery voltage switch-on, without tickling.

Gyula

[MarkE]

Yes it is oscillating,and the LED simply wont light with 1.2 volt's.
Mark-the motor casing is steel,not aluminum. It's just painted with an aluminum colored paint.
Sorry about the shaky camera work,but as you could hear,it was raining that day,and quite cold lol.

I should throw this one back together,and have a look around the circuit with my digital scope -now that i have one.

I thought I saw a label on the tube that said "Aluminum".  I agree that with the circuit as represented, the LED will not light unless the transistor oscillates.  The but for the D1 diode, the LED would be reverse biased when L2 is not flying back. 

I constructed the circuit on a solderless breadboard using a 2N2222A transistor, 1N4005 diode, and OVLBR4C7 red LED.  I used two NiMH cells.  I used several choke configurations with the following results:

1) 1812 1mH 42 Ohm unshielded chokes 6" apart.  No oscillations.
2) 1mH 2.9 Ohm shielded choke L2 for the flyback, and 1mH 1812 42 Ohm choke L1 for the base-emitter.  No oscillations.
3) 1mH 2.9 Ohm shielded chokes both positions.  No oscillations.
4) 470uH x 2 coupled choke. 120 Ohm series base resistor.  Oscillates with coils oriented as in the graphic below, LED glows brightly, but the frequency wanders.
Peak collector to emitter voltage is just over 6V.  2.5V for the NiMH batteries + ~2V for the LED Vfw and ~0.8V for the 1N4005 and the rest is resistive drops in the choke and LED.