Winding my first (bifilar) coil.

[antimony]

Hi, i have bought some Cu wire, #23 and #26 that i am going to use to make a bifilar coil that i will use in my SSG.
I bought 3 spools of #26 wire that are 90 meters each, and 5 spools of #23 wire that are 40 meters each, so i will have to join them while winding them.
How do i do this, or can it be done?

Are there any other tips that you would like to give me before i get started with the winding?

I would really appreciate all help and feedback.

Ps. I saw a video on youtube where this guy used bathroom fan coils in his design. I guess they were as they were, and not rewound. Can you do this generally?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2iUiSJJ5D0

[tinman]

Hi, i have bought some Cu wire, #23 and #26 that i am going to use to make a bifilar coil that i will use in my SSG.
I bought 3 spools of #26 wire that are 90 meters each, and 5 spools of #23 wire that are 40 meters each, so i will have to join them while winding them.
How do i do this, or can it be done?

Are there any other tips that you would like to give me before i get started with the winding?

I would really appreciate all help and feedback.

Ps. I saw a video on youtube where this guy used bathroom fan coils in his design. I guess they were as they were, and not rewound. Can you do this generally?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2iUiSJJ5D0

Your AWG 23 per 40 meters will give you a resistance of around 2.7 ohms,and 40 meters of your AWG 26 will give you about  5.3 ohms resistance. 5.3 ohms is good for a 12 volt pulse motor,but 2.7 may be a little low-->but if you use a 2n3055 transistor,it will handle the current without much trouble- if you go with the 40 meters of AWG 23 as your run coil.

I have found that winding the(what is called) trigger coil on your core first,and then the heavier run coil over the top of that,gives much better results and performance. So i would go with a core that is around 19mm in diameter,and around 65mm long. Then wind your 40 meters of AWG 26(your trigger coil) on the core,place one layer of insulation tape over that,then wind on your 40 meters of AWG 23(your run coil). Your magnets for the rotor would best have a diameter of 1/2 to 3/4s that of the coil core. Also alternate the poles of the magnets on your rotor-->do not use all north or south out,despite what you may have heard. This way,if you are going to use a soft iron wire for your core material,the core will not become magnetized after time.


Brad

[MileHigh]

Hi, i have bought some Cu wire, #23 and #26 that i am going to use to make a bifilar coil that i will use in my SSG.
I bought 3 spools of #26 wire that are 90 meters each, and 5 spools of #23 wire that are 40 meters each, so i will have to join them while winding them.
How do i do this, or can it be done?

Are there any other tips that you would like to give me before i get started with the winding?

I would really appreciate all help and feedback.

Ps. I saw a video on youtube where this guy used bathroom fan coils in his design. I guess they were as they were, and not rewound. Can you do this generally?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2iUiSJJ5D0

If you intend on having something like a rotor with four poles 90 degrees apart and a single drive coil, then the suggestion is to start by not winding any coils at all.  Just use the spools of wire as is.  I am assuming the actual spools that hold the wire are not magnetic.

You do not need to make a bifilar coil at all.  You can put your trigger coil 90 degrees away from your drive coil.  This will give you the luxury of being able to physically change the trigger coil radial distance and angle so that you will have completely flexible trigger pulse timing for energizing the drive coil.  This will give you a superior pulse motor design by far.

If you want an instant bifilar coil to experiment with anyway, just buy a spool of speaker wire.

[tinman]

If you intend on having something like a rotor with four poles 90 degrees apart and a single drive coil, then the suggestion is to start by not winding any coils at all.  Just use the spools of wire as is.  I am assuming the actual spools that hold the wire are not magnetic.

You do not need to make a bifilar coil at all.  You can put your trigger coil 90 degrees away from your drive coil.  This will give you the luxury of being able to physically change the trigger coil radial distance and angle so that you will have completely flexible trigger pulse timing for energizing the drive coil.  This will give you a superior pulse motor design by far.

If you want an instant bifilar coil to experiment with anyway, just buy a spool of speaker wire.

You do not need to make a bifilar coil at all.  You can put your trigger coil 90 degrees away from your drive coil.  This will give you the luxury of being able to physically change the trigger coil radial distance and angle so that you will have completely flexible trigger pulse timing for energizing the drive coil.  This will give you a superior pulse motor design by far.

MH
Doing it that way dose not pull the transistor on hard when the transistor starts to conduct. I have done this many time's,and unless you use a darlington transistor,the motor will be crap. The whole idea of having the trigger coil rapped along with the run coil ,is to get that transformer cascade effect between the two,and this switches the transistor on hard.
Most of the power sent to the base is from this transformer action,not from the generated current from the magnets on the rotor.. If you use a second coil to solely generate the current required to switch the transistor on,you will bog down the rotor from the normal generator effect,and your transistor will not switch on as hard-resulting in less power being sent to the drive coil--not to mention toasted transistors from soft switching.

[MileHigh]

It's interesting that you mention the transformer cascading effect.  You know when you see multiple pulses per rotor magnet pass (the "chopping" effect) and then as the rotor speeds up finally you get to only one pulse per rotor magnet pass?  I believe that's the transformer cascading effect working "against" the trigger coil.  In other words, the trigger coil turns on the transistor, then the drive coil starts to switch on, and that couples back to the trigger coil to switch off the transistor.  Then the whole process repeats itself over again.  It's only when the rotor speeds up enough that that goes away.  To me that suggests that the interaction between the drive coil and the trigger coil is tending to slow down the switching process.  However I could be wrong or missing something because you have built several pulse motors and I haven't.

At least with a separate and independent pickup coil you avoid the "chopping" effect and you have the infinitely variable timing to play with.