3.7 VOLT BATTERY POWERS 56 WATTS

[magnetman12003]

Hi magnetman,

I understand and respect your stance on your setup,  thanks.

From some of your previous videos I gather you have this type of DMM:
Extech 22-816 true RMS digital multimeter.  I assume this is what you use to
measure DC current and DC voltage in your setup. Is this correct?
This is its User manual: http://assets.tequipment.net/assets/1/26/Documents/22-816_UM.pdf

If yes, then I think you could do some further measurements on your setup
without making any further experimentation or any change on it.

You DMM can measure frequency from 10 Hz to 10 MHz when you turn rotary range switch
to FREQ setting and then press the button with the symbol Hz / % on it on the upper left side.
At least this is what is written in the user manual. And the black test lead banana plug goes
into negative COM jack and the red test lead banana plug goes into the positive V jack, just
like in case of say voltage measurements.

1) Now please would you check what frequency may be across capacitor C1?
2) Would you please check what frequency may be across the OUT+ and IN AND OUT-?

The latter is your output going to the LEDs. If we learn about these frequencies, then
this may help figure out that at what frequency the thyristor works as a switch. 
(Notice: I know there is DC voltage across either C1 or across the output but due to the SCR switching
there can be AC pulses across them and that would be good to know, see the next step below.)

3) One more measurement if you do not mind: set the DMM to AC voltage range and check the
AC voltage across C1 and then across the OUT+ and IN AND OUT- points. So far you mentioned
all your voltages measured were DC voltages.

By the way, if you are in AC voltage range and press the Hz / % button, then the display is
said to change to Hertz and would show the frequency of the AC voltage. This is valid also
when you measure AC current and want to know the frequency of the AC current.

Thanks,
Gyula

AC measurement  59.95 HZ  across C1-- .005 volts AC      AC measurement 59.97 HZ across IN/OUT  -- .005 volts AC

[gyulasun]

AC measurement  59.95 HZ  across C1-- .005 volts AC      AC measurement 59.97 HZ across IN/OUT  -- .005 volts AC

Thank you.  I will comment tomorrow because I have to finish for tonight.

If I may ask you to measure now across the Gate and Cathode of the thyristor when you have time:

please check the DC and AC voltages and the frequency. 

I show in your picture across which two legs of the SCR to measure.  Sorry to nag you, not intentional.

Than you again.
Gyula

[magnetman12003]

Thank you.  I will comment tomorrow because I have to finish for tonight.

If I may ask you to measure now across the Gate and Cathode of the thyristor when you have time:

please check the DC and AC voltages and the frequency. 

I show in your picture across which two legs of the SCR to measure.  Sorry to nag you, not intentional.

Than you again.
Gyula

DC voltage gate/cathode is 0.  frequency 0    AC voltage gate/cathode is .015  frequency 60 HZ.  Testing done with the 17 watt LUMSING wall adapter as the power source.


What I found so far is the best continuous bright light coming off the 9 led bulbs is by using my USB  LUMSING 5 volt 17 watt wall adapter as the power source to the setup. A 60 HZ signal comes out of it along with DC voltage and all 9 bulbs burn ""brightly"" continuously  because of this.  Using a 12 volt battery makes the bulbs burn maybe just a little brighter but there is no AC frequency at all no matter where I measure.   Same by using a single 3.7 volt battery lipstick size USB adapter--  No frequency- Dim bulbs.
Extremely happy using the LUMSING.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132X03ZS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[SkyWatcher123]

Hi all, well, since i was not having much good results, using the oscillator circuit, because of the circuitry inside the led bulbs.
I thought that since the led board is rated for around 22 volts or so, the bulb with the inner circuitry removed, might be fairly efficient when run from the oscillator circuit.
And that is in fact the case, i gutted 2 bulbs so far and they are putting out some very good light for only 2.3 watts, using the usb power supply.
Without the capacitor in place, they are not quite as bright.
When the puffer capacitor is in place, the brightness really increases quite a bit.
I'm thinking, that may be because the flyback is a little too high for these lower voltage led boards and the capacitor absorbs the spikes and converts it to more useful lower voltage current for the bulbs.
Makes me wonder if the higher turn coil i was using previously, might be more efficient, if the capacitor can take even higher voltage spikes and convert those as well, to lower voltage current for the bulbs.
Either way, these 12 volt bulbs have many uses here, with or without the inside circuitry removed.
In the meantime, i am keenly observing what gyula and magnetman are showing about the circuit.
peace love light

[gyulasun]

DC voltage gate/cathode is 0.  frequency 0    AC voltage gate/cathode is .015  frequency 60 HZ. 
Testing done with the 17 watt LUMSING wall adapter as the power source.
....

Hi magnetman,

Thanks for all the measurements.
I requote your earlier measurement results too:
"AC measurement  59.95 HZ  across C1-- .005 volts AC     
AC measurement 59.97 HZ across IN/OUT  -- .005 volts AC" 

I think these measurement results strongly indicate the thyristor is not operating in the setup.
Very probably the low DC level you measured across C1 (around 3.3V) cannot trigger the neon
bulb any more hence the thyristor cannot fire either.  This is my deduction, based on your meter results.

The question arises whether why there is so low DC voltage, 3.3V across capacitor C1?
(You reported 3.3 V in recent reply #105 or even in reply #123 above.)  Is it possible the oscillator cannot charge it up higher?

You may wish to check the AC voltage and the frequency across the collector of
transistor TIP35C and the Common negative rail with your true RMS meter, that would be informative.

(The collector pin of the TIP35C is the middle one out of its three legs and as you surely
know the collector pin is also tied to the heat sink part of the transistor case.)

If you find no AC voltage (or any frequency other than 59.9-60Hz), then check the same
at the transistor base with respect also to the Common negative rail.

Thanks,  Gyula

PS If you find no AC voltage and frequency at the pins of the TIP35C, it may mean that it cannot
oscillate from the 5 V DC input the USB wall adapter provides. 
This may happen, I found for such oscillators the start up may be critical or none at a lower input voltage
than earlier it was from the 12V input.
Maybe this can be solved by readjusting the potmeters for the 5V input while monitoring say the DC level
across C1, it should jump up up from its 3.3 V DC level when the oscillator just begins to oscillate.
Then you can check again the AC voltages and the frequency at the points I mentioned yesterday and today.
Hopefully you can easily access the pins of the TIP35C with your meter probe tip, be careful.