Dr Ronald Stiffler SEC technology

[gyulasun]

Hi Nick,

Yes, the best way to close out stray field from the AC mains within the rooms of your house is to turn off the breakers.
If the red LED continues remaining faintly lit, then the next step would be to take the coil + LED assembly (or your oscillator circuit as a whole) out from the room and / or from the house and see its brightness whether changing or whatever.
Watch for the brightness when removing the connecting wires one by one while attempting to take the circuit assembly out of the room.

The data provided by Itsu is based on conventional i.e. known science. The aim would be to build oscillator circuits to provide high enough RF voltage which is able to substitute a function or signal generator to replicate Doc's setup with the air core coil + LED board as he showed.  From Lidmotor and others replications and tests it is clear that there is no need to use the 13.56 MHz frequency, it is not 'magic'.  Notice that the Doc has not claimed overunity.  So far the tests I have been aware of shows higher achievable efficiency with such setups driving a LED lamp than driving the same lamp by its original off the shelf circuits to get similar brightnesses.  Efficiency for the driving circuits applied in the off the shelf LED lamps may range from say 80 to 90%, not really higher.  The conversion efficiency of the LEDs themselves from their DC input to light is a totally different question.

Gyula

[gyulasun]

Hi erfandl,

What is the transistor type you are using in that circuit? 

IF you use a 1 MegaOhm resistor for biasing the base from the positive supply rail, then try to reduce it to the some hundred kOhm values and see how brightness may change. Do not go lower than say 47-56 kOhm though but this much depends on the h_FE value of the transistor.  IF you find improvement in brightness when you reduced the 1 MOhm, then try to change the 30 pF trimmer and also try to add the 22 pF in parallel with the trimmer capacitor to find any chance for higher brightness. Do this trimmer cap setting again whenever you change the base resistor value down from the 1 MOhm to find better and better operation.

Gyula

[itsu]

Gyula,

i tested with the tap on 3 and 2 turns.

At 2 turns the oscillator won't work without any virtual ground near by the leds, so i connected a cliplead again to the junction of the 2  1N4148 diodes.

I tuned for max output on the leds by turning the 100 trimmer pot and the variable cap.
The screenshot 1 below shows the signals where blue is the output (3 turns on the toroid) and purple the collector/emitter voltage.

The 100K pot was set to 18K and the current drawn was 110mA (when pulling the x-tal it goes to 150mA).

No saturation / distortion was seen, but there are many peaks across the spectrum still, see screenshot 2

The variable cap measures 37.5pF using my LCD meter.

Video here:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x59rlTNUu68&feature=youtu.be   

Itsu

[gyulasun]

Thanks Itsu.  Regarding the virtual ground to start up the oscillator: have you tried to connect the common point of the diodes to the negative (or maybe the positive) supply rail with a short piece of wire?   That my also help start up but without that longer piece of wire. 
If it works like that you may increase the potmeter setting to a higher value like 50-70 kOhm maybe to reduce dissiparion if the circuit lets it doing.
Very likely you need to retune the tank, we do not know how many pF the back plate of the LED board introduces into the tank, maybe it would detune the tank too far from 13.56 MHz, so keep this in mind.  it is possible the variable capacitor should be turned to its minimal pF setting or even to remove it and yet the back plate capacitance would be still higher than the originally needed 30-35 pF. 

Addition: with the tap at the 2nd turn, the 22 pF capacitor between the collector-emitter may need to be modified to a higher value to increase feedback, this way the oscillator may start-up without any virtual ground, this can be true for the tap at the 3rd turn too.   Try to set not higher than 60-70 mA collector current but that may be really needed for the 230V LED board. 

Do you have the specification of the LED board the manufacturer gave on it?  Input voltage I guess is 230V AC originally.   Now is the brightness we see close to the brightness this LED board produces from the mains with its original internal circuit?  I think these questions would be put by Nick too...   

Thanks,  Gyula

[erfandl]

Hi erfandl,

What is the transistor type you are using in that circuit? 

IF you use a 1 MegaOhm resistor for biasing the base from the positive supply rail, then try to reduce it to the some hundred kOhm values and see how brightness may change. Do not go lower than say 47-56 kOhm though but this much depends on the h_FE value of the transistor.  IF you find improvement in brightness when you reduced the 1 MOhm, then try to change the 30 pF trimmer and also try to add the 22 pF in parallel with the trimmer capacitor to find any chance for higher brightness. Do this trimmer cap setting again whenever you change the base resistor value down from the 1 MOhm to find better and better operation.

Gyula

Hi gyula. I used 2n2222 transistor. OK tomorrow testing with 100 kohm or lower resistor and share the result.
thanks