Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of this Forum, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above
Thanks to ALL for your help!!


Joe cell successful Replication

Started by lltfdaniel1, December 25, 2006, 11:36:59 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

chessnyt

Hello Oscar,

The following is the next step:

Cut a piece of 1/4 â€" 20 non-stainless all-thread to a length of 8 3/8”.  On a welding table, stand your 1” pipe up with the open end of the pipe facing the table surface and the end with the plate welded to it facing up.  Now drop the all-thread through the 1/4" hole in the circular welded plate.  Now place the 4” bolt from earlier on the all-thread.  The all-thread is just helping you align the bolt’s hole with the circular plate’s hole until you tack weld two adjacent sides of the bolt to the circular plate.

Once the bolt is tack welded, remove the all-thread, unscrewing it if it is bound in the hole.  If it is bound, just screw two 1/4 â€" 20 hex nuts onto the end of the all-thread and lock them against each other.  Then unscrew them from the hole counter clockwise.

Now make two more tack welds.  You should end up with tack welds at 12:00, 6:00, 3:00 and 9:00.  Or 0 degrees, 180 degrees, 90 degrees and 270 degrees.  Now completely weld the bolt head to the circular plate welding a bead all the way around the rounded bolt head. 

Now take your glass vessel and make a 7/8” hole in the center of the bottom of it.  (This is easier said than done, as I found out the hard way.  DO NOT USE A DRILL BIT TO MAKE THIS HOLE!!!)  I have no way of making this hole so I will be outsourcing this part.

Have fun with this part Oscar,

Chess Knight   

OscarMeyer

Quote from: chessnyt on February 10, 2009, 12:55:30 AM
Hello Oscar,

The following is the next step:

Cut a piece of 1/4 â€" 20 non-stainless all-thread to a length of 8 3/8”.  On a welding table, stand your 1” pipe up with the open end of the pipe facing the table surface and the end with the plate welded to it facing up.  Now drop the all-thread through the 1/4" hole in the circular welded plate.  Now place the 4” bolt from earlier on the all-thread.  The all-thread is just helping you align the bolt’s hole with the circular plate’s hole until you tack weld two adjacent sides of the bolt to the circular plate.

Once the bolt is tack welded, remove the all-thread, unscrewing it if it is bound in the hole.  If it is bound, just screw two 1/4 â€" 20 hex nuts onto the end of the all-thread and lock them against each other.  Then unscrew them from the hole counter clockwise.

Now make two more tack welds.  You should end up with tack welds at 12:00, 6:00, 3:00 and 9:00.  Or 0 degrees, 180 degrees, 90 degrees and 270 degrees.  Now completely weld the bolt head to the circular plate welding a bead all the way around the rounded bolt head. 

Now take your glass vessel and make a 7/8” hole in the center of the bottom of it.  (This is easier said than done, as I found out the hard way.  DO NOT USE A DRILL BIT TO MAKE THIS HOLE!!!)  I have no way of making this hole so I will be outsourcing this part.

Have fun with this part Oscar,

Chess Knight   


Chessnyt,

This is going to take a while to complete. I have to find some way to make the hole in the glass too. 

Oscar

OscarMeyer

Hey Chessnyt,

We are both going to have to sub out this part of the project and it could take a while so in meantime why don't you post something to help others until we get past this part? Just a thought. 

Oscar


chessnyt

Hello Oscar,

I don’t want to skip over important steps and confuse those who might be building along side of us so I am going to post a bunch of general tips to those who might already have a built cell that doesn’t work.

GENERAL JOE CELL TIPS:

1.  Your charging vat cell can have 5 or 4 plates but your vehicle cell must only have 4 plates.  5”, 4”, 3” and 2” 316L stainless steel pipes.  Seamless is recommended but welded ones are ok as long as magnetism is removed.

2.  In the vehicle cell, only insulators made of virgin Teflon are acceptable as insulators that will be submerged in water.  This material is not only an excellent electrical insulator but it can also withstand temperatures up to 500 degrees F without melting.  It will not contaminate your water like most plastics.  Ebonite rod is NOT a suitable substitute.  Nylon is not a suitable insulator either (most kitchen cutting boards are made of this stuff).  McMaster Carr sells this type of Teflon, just in case you can not find it elsewhere.

3.  On both cells (charging vat and vehicle cell) you need a plate welded to the bottom of the center pipe and the outer pipe.  If you have a kit where your outside pipe is formed at the bottom without a plate welded on, you can use this pipe.  If you have a kit where your negative inner pipe has a press fit bolt or platform, you CAN NOT use this pipe unless you can remove the press fit bolt or platform and MIG or TIG weld a solid 1/8” round plate to the bottom.

4.  If the water in your charging vat’s center pipe can not circulate (and you will notice when you apply electricity to the cell) it will NOT work and it will NOT properly charge your water.

5.  If the water in your vehicle cell’s center pipe can not circulate (and you will notice when you apply electricity to the cell) it will NOT work and it will NOT properly charge your water.  You must have at least 3 holes in the bottom plate of 1/4" in diameter to allow proper water circulation in your vehicle cell.  The plate welded to the bottom of this center pipe MUST be equal in size to the OUTSIDE DIAMETER of the pipe.  NOT the inside diameter.

6.  Do NOT use the cones that are seen on the net affixed to the top of the vehicle cells.  Use a flanged flat lid with a rubber gasket for the top lid to your vehicle cell.  The rubber gasket material is said to be ok to use because it is NOT submerged in the water and it is NOT insulating the cell electrically because bolts pass through the flange and conduct electricity.  It is only being used as a seal.

7.  The vehicle cell’s mounting bracket in the engine compartment must use wood insulators at least 3/4" in thickness.  The bracket can be metal but there must be 3/4" of wood insulation in between the bracket and the outside cell container (which is positive).

8.  Use only rain water or mountain stream water in your cell(s).  Tap water has fluoride and chlorine added to the water which will mess up your cell.  Bottled water may contain many minerals which have been added for taste, which will also mess up your cell.

This information may help those who have NON-working cells to convert them into working cells.

Regards,

Chess Knight     


OscarMeyer

Hi Chessnyt,

Nice tips and it clears a lot of things up that I wondered about. There is one thing that I don’t get that you talk about in tip #3. You mention that both cells need a plate welded onto the bottom of the center and outer pipe. I didn’t notice the instruction for doing this earlier.

Quote from: chessnyt on February 14, 2009, 06:43:54 PM


3.  On both cells (charging vat and vehicle cell) you need a plate welded to the bottom of the center pipe and the outer pipe.  If you have a kit where your outside pipe is formed at the bottom without a plate welded on, you can use this pipe.  If you have a kit where your negative inner pipe has a press fit bolt or platform, you CAN NOT use this pipe unless you can remove the press fit bolt or platform and MIG or TIG weld a solid 1/8” round plate to the bottom.
     






I am very glad to see you giving these tips because some people may have cells that don’t work and without buying another high priced manual or starting over they can try the stuff you are giving away for free. If their cells don’t already work they can't break a broken cell. If thery can't run their cars they can find out what they might be doing wrong.

I was also wondering if you have chosen an engine. Do you have one yet or will you wait til we finish the cell building first?

Oscar.