free energy via electronic means

[hartiberlin]

Hey you guys, I have tried a new way.

I am using 6 x 12vdc batteries, 5 x 7a and 1 x 4a in series. I'm charging on the right side and supplying the re-charge inverter on the left side. No wire inversions. I am also using another small demand supply inverter running off battery #4 (from the right). I plugged a 110vac fan on fastest turn setting. Measured voltage across all the batteries it is stable at 81.8 volts.

I am using a 600 watts inverter on left side, a 2 - 10 - 50 amp selectable charger set on the 10 amp setting on the right side, and a 175 watt inverter off the battery #4.
.........

Also, it is important to match the Recharging Inverter to the charger demand.

Also, under the parallel system there is no difference if you plug the charger on opposing terinals since the batteries are in parallel.

Hi wattsup,
nice setup,
but how should all the batteries be charged,
if you don?t apply  any charge back to all of them in series ?

You could maybe hook more batteries ( e.g. 19 pieces) in series,
so that you get about 230 Volts
DC all in all and then the inverter with a rectified graetz bridge
at the output to pulse this rectified 230 Volts output of the inverter
onto the series battery bank.

Also then you could use a different battery charger,
one, that just pulses the 230 Volts DC into a 1:1.2 transformer and
thus tries to pulse just about 250 Volts DC pulses with a few Khz
onto the batteries in series...

Then you also need no battery charger, just this pulser.
YOu can then use directly the 230 Volts DC to drive lamp loads.

Okay, for AC usage you would still need something like a 230 Volts DC to 230 Volts AC
converter..

Regards, Stefan.

[Walter Hofmann]

Hi swing,
hmmm like I sayd I got no idea if it or how it could work with 220V.
I only can talk from my rig, I never expirienced any overloading, because the maximum voltage what this transformer can provide is 14.2V what is not dangerous for the batteries but with taking out the electronic it did charge with a higher current on demand up to 18Amps because the current is it actually what is demanded from the inverter.
This specs from the inverter are not accurate because htey try to go on the safe side. the losss of 10% should actually be about 15 to 20%, but this says nothing about the pulled current thats why I did actually measure it and was surprise about the numbers how much it pulles in reality at some loads.
I would recommend that you measure the pulled current 1. from the charger and 2nd from the inverter because there could be something wrong too.
The other part is your verry smal batteries are not realy comparable.
greetings
walt

Hi walt,
Thanks for your comments, and details.
I'm using 220VAC (sometimes called 230VAC or 240VAC).
Would you recommend to use an old "boat anchor" charger instead of an electronic one?
If you don't use a charger with overcharge cut off, woulden't you overcharge the batteries? My current charger is a constant voltage charger. It charges up to 14.1V, and the current drops all the way from 12 to 14.1V. So it takes a long time to charge the batteries, as you also said.
About the loss in the invert. It says in the specs. for the inverter that the loss is <10%. That clearly isn't the case with your inverter. But, I don't know if the specs are correct.
Yes, it is a bit of a problem, that we don't really know if this concept is doable on a 220VAC system. Hopefully time will show.

Sorry about the link. I'm not aware of the problem. I don't  really know what to do about it at the moment. I'm thinking to just stream pictures to a webserver instead, so it won't kill my bandwidth. That would also take care of your problem.

Hi wattsup,
Thank's for your interesting post. Nice to see some messing around with the concept. 
I don't really see the smart thing in the setup. When the batteries are connected in series, the charge won't level out between the batteries, as far as I know. You are charging one battery, and loading two others, and then you switch the load between the batteries. The batteries doesn't work together the same way when connected in series.
This small rise in voltage in some tests is probably because the cells takes some time to adjust when they are applied load. I have had the same effect, but as in your tests, the voltages starts to drop again after some minutes.
Could you try to measure the voltage on the DI and RI when the alarm goes off before you turn it off and switch to another battery (if you can stand the freaking noise)?
How much power does the fan consume? If it's around 20W, then one battery would run for more than 3 hours, before it surrenders. Your whole experiment have run for total of 1h 22m. That's not enough to even drain one battery alone.
And your charger. Is it an electronic type, or an old trafo type.


I have attached a scope shot one of my friends did. He is using the same charge as I do. Don't know if andybody can get something out of it.
I'm still charging my batteries. I'll try a setup without the used battery next, to see if that makes any difference.

[hartiberlin]

This is a nice charger unit:

http://www.tunecharger.com/download-28717.htm

Highly recommended !
Michel is now designing a 50 Watts version !

Have a look at his homepage, you can also find
all documents there, but the kits are easier to build !

You can also read the first page of the new
Bedini page, to get some understanding, how to avoid
to discharge the battery:

http://www.icehouse.net/john34/bedinibearden.html

Also watch the movies from Bearden:
http://video.google.de/videoplay?docid=-4390212369275295676
http://video.google.de/videoplay?docid=6926340061102418615

Regards, Stefan.

[wattsup]

@all

My RI blew. Sounds like an embolism, but it's only the re-charge inverter. I must have shorted it or overloaded it with 80 vdc or something.

Stuck with my small but trusty (touch wood) 175 watt inverter and the charger.

Anyways, while planning my next tests, I decided to try something else. I took a 15.7 mfd 270 vac capacitor (I have these because I am also doing some testing with electric motors, etc.) and put it in parrallel with my 12vdc 4 amp battery, then I connected a small 12vdc bulb in parallel that draws only 150mA. I have let this since last night and tonight the voltage has not dropped, on the contrary, it has gone up about 0.48 volts.

Has anyone every tried this, or is it to simple to be true. I am thinking of adding some more caps and increase the load to see whats happens.

Here's a photo.

@SwinG

I'm just trying to confirm that your RI is a 300 watt unit, and your charger is a 10 amp unit (without any other amp settings). What is the voltages.

Also, what is the actual voltage comming out of your charger without it being connected to a battery to charge.

Can you do an amps test between the charger positive and battery positive.
Then add a second battery and check the amps. Then another and another.

Watch out with amps if doing with your regular meter. I just blew my fuse twice and have to get more. I'm getting a real amp meter.

[hartiberlin]

Hi Wattsup,
interesting experiment !

If you would have seen the new Bearden Video
energy from the vaccuum,
you can understand why your circuit might work.

It is about the dipole always converting free photons
to electricity, when I have understood it correctly...

Use only low current loads, that is the idea and never distroy the
dipole and pulse current back to the battery...

Regards, Stefan.