Lords of the Ring

[giantkiller]

Sorry about the blurry.

This is the latest stab:
When L1 is done it connects to L2 and then L3.
As the L1 is pulsed and the round trip pulse fires L2 and the round trip pulse fires L3 the backside angular runs work to excite the Helmholtzs because of the required angle.

--giantkiller.

[Rosphere]

Quick-n-Dirty winder concept.

[Rosphere]

A friend of mine asked me if I could open-source my ME skills to help him develop a home-made coil winder to make several prototype coils for testing.

The above sketch was made by me last night.

I have in my head several slight clarifications and tweaks to several areas to improve performance without adding much more complexity.  I may work on a CAD design today,... or tonight.  (I have been avoiding cleaning out the garage.  The weather has broken.  It is time.)

My friend asked me how the toroid is held in place.  I said, "with your hand."  As long as the motor spins that spool through and around that toroid profile, I will advance the toroid.  We may add a rolling cradle for the toroid as well.

The clarifications and tweaks I have in mind are:

1. The three roller areas: One foreseen problem resolved with less complex design, I like it.  The centrifugal force from the heavy spool will torque the opposite side of the, most likely lighter, ring frame upwardly, out of the roller area.  I thought about adding a third roller to each station to restrain the top lip of the guide ring.  Then I decided to use only one vertical roller at each of the three roller stations, shaped like a bobbin to straddle the guide ring edge all the way around the outer edge perimeter; (top-lip, edge face, bottom lip.)

2. Now that the guide ring will no longer pop out of the three bearing areas, let us mitigate those centrifugal forces from the heavy spool.  I was thinking about inclining the top of the spool axis toward the vertical axis of the guide ring.  The spool would be inclined on its journey around the ring profile much like a race car on an inclined oval race track at the turns.

3. As mentioned previously, a soothe cradle for the toroid would be easier on the arms.

4. Must have a BIG on/off motor switch near your hand, if not a foot pedal switch.  (See 5 below.)

5. And a forward/reverse switch.  Trust me, you are advancing the toroid by hand. You are not perfect.  On second thought, this is not like the winder I made previously.  You may be better off backing it up slowly, (if/when needed,) by hand to avoid fouling the wire in the device.  Use the switch, (from 4 above,) to stop the motor, undo your little boo-boo, and then be more careful next time. (Or, see 11 below.)

6. Screw a small rubber washer into the guide base plate near the lower lip of the spool to adjust tension in the wire.  As the spool lightens you may want to put a couple turns on the tension screw.  (The initial weight will add tension through friction with the lower face of the spool on the base plate which will lessen as you wind and the spool becomes lighter.)

7. An old fishing pole end fixed to the same spool base plate as the tensioner above will help guide the wire coming off the spool to one height.

8. Keep in mind that the three rollers will not only will guide the spool guide ring in a circle, they will also hold the total weight of the spool/guide ring/spool base plate/tensioner/line guide assembly.  Do not go too cheap on the materials.  The spools I have in mind weigh a half pound.  I would not make the rollers out of foam, for example.  And one of them is a driving roller...

9. The driving roller should be mounted on a motor gearbox assembly that pivots on the far end with a spring to force the guide ring into the two opposing idle-rollers placed 120 degrees apart on the opposing side, (as shown above.)  This spring will also be necessary to install and remove the guide ring assembly.  Pull back on the spring to remove/add the guide ring.

10. Make your guide ring out of a semi rigid material like wood or plastic and you only need one split to insert and remove the toroid.  Remove your fastener, twist the guide ring, slip on/of the toroid, and reinstall your fastener.

11.   If you are going to make many more units, make a driving cradle powered from the same motor, but geared down to somewhere around the 360 fold area, if you know what I mean.  Two horizontal driving rollers spaced 120 degrees apart on the bottom should do it with vertical plates, "effectively preventing side-fumbling."


12.  Now, if someone here knows how to hack into printer control software, we could use an old printer's motors and existing wiring.  The carriage motor can be used for the spool guide ring drive, and the paper advance motor can be used for the toroid advancement, one "line" at a time, at the right time.

[giantkiller]

Dude! You b a genius. I like the wire spool on the bobbin wheel design. I guess it is only for when the collector ring is larger than the wire spool. Otherwise one would have to transfer the main supply to a smaller bobbin.

The design still looks like it could be a handheld application. Ronco TPU winder?

--giantkiller.

[Rosphere]

Dude! You b a genius.

Thank you.

I wish that someone would hire me and pay me well.