Lüling magnet motor by Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello to All,


I have been working on this Setup for a while by now...and finally my CAD related to the "Pump" or Heart of this mechanical system is completed...this is the SWITCHING MECHANISM.

Now I will proceed to start making each part...


The ACTUATOR and TRIGGERS SYTEM is not shown...why?...because I have several options to be applied, and it FIRST, depends upon the result distance to trigger once the already built parts from the Pump are finished and tested.


Here are the CAD for the Three main positioning points to be set/tested:


1- CENTERED SET, where I show that all rotating/pivoting axis are aligned with a RED Vertical Line, and this is important to make sure the system transfers from this step to ON and OFF very smoothly!!
2- NEUTRALIZATION ON
3- NEUTRALIZATION OFF

The descriptions or SPEC'S are on the NEUTRALIZATION ON Diagram.


A Is the MAIN CENTER LEVER

B Is the REVERSE LEVER, which works opposite (in Angle and Positioning) to Lever A
 
C Is the "C BRACKET LEVER", which also connects on the Left side with the actuator system, and Embraces both levers A & B


#1 is the High Pressure Spring which releases the first short distance to separate magnets easily.


#2 is the Return Spring and both have being explained in detail on previous posts.


#3 is the SWITCHING SPRING, and it is the most important spring on this setup, it travels fro LEVER A to LEVER B, and it must be adjusted properly with correct pressure, plus the lower holding stud also needs to be properly set!
This SWITCHING SPRING pivots from LEFT side of the RED center line to the RIGHT side...so, it depends on this spring adjustment to make the correct fast switching from ON to OFF.
IF you notice, at the CENTERED SET GRAPHIC, this Spring is already passing to the right side of red line...That means that this center positioning is just a PASSING THROUGH STAGE from Right to Left and Viceversa, the Switch NEVER STAYS AT THIS POSTION, it is just to be aligned and set.


#4 are LOW PRESSURE RETURN SPRINGS


#5 are all BRASS ROLLERS and are colored in a brass (orange) color like.




I may be re editing this post many times...to add any important details that I may have missed...




Thanks




Ufopolitics


PD, I am sorry for the bad quality of this graphics...I will try to make them more clear and easier to read as I will make details further on.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello,


ABOUT THE ROLLERS I AM USING...

Here are a couple of images to show the rollers I am using on my setup...(they are ALL like this)


If you notice they are not regular rollers mounted on a shaft...but they ALL have edges, like a  SPOOL, in order that they roll on the levers borders as well.


I do this in order that levers do NOT SLIDE OFF tracks, as some are set far away from their pivoting points...


All they need is a drop of grease inside and outside their shafts and rolling surfaces.





Regards




Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

The Graphic below is just to show both movements at the same time, in order to see the TRAVEL DISTANCES between INPUT and OUTPUT.


Blue and Red Arrows are the INPUT TRAVEL received by the Actuator-Trigger Levels (not shown here)


The Blue Arrow in a circle is Neutralization ON, and the Red Arrow shows the END TRAVEL, where Neutralization is FULLY OFF.

The success of this System is that the TRIGGER LEVER just need to travel from 2 to 2.5 mm and it would be enough to activate the whole travel of the mechanisms BACK and FORTH...in a very short period of Time !!


Once We achieve that...well...it will run.




Regards




Ufopolitics

[knovos]

Is there a possibility to share the CAD-files .STEP format or native what application do you use for CAD design?


Looks well thought out but can't see how it works. But maybe that's part of my intelligence. When you have built everything, a video will show you how it works. It will be a huge achievement and pave the way for a unique engine that the world has not yet seen in an open-source setting.

[Ufopolitics]

Is there a possibility to share the CAD-files .STEP format or native what application do you use for CAD design?

Hello Knovos,


The App that I have used for this particular one is TurboCad, it is a piece of shit program, but easier to adjust scaling and rotations with pretty good accuracy.
However, this CAD is just 2D, as I make  all my 3D CAD's in MAYA 6 (an old one before Alias was  purchased by Autodesk...
I also have AUTOCAD, but I have not taken the native TurboCad files into AutoCad...


I use this CAD to make the patterns to then cut them in Metal (Aluminum) by hand and finished also by hand until they have a perfect fit.

Looks well thought out but can't see how it works. But maybe that's part of my intelligence. When you have built everything, a video will show you how it works. It will be a huge achievement and pave the way for a unique engine that the world has not yet seen in an open-source setting.

Yes, I admit it looks a bit complicated like this...but am sure, once you see it working, it would be understood perfectly well...


Like I have said before...this Concept could be interpreted as a "BROKEN TOGGLE SWITCH"


And it is a "broken toggle switch" just because it would ALWAYS come back, automatically, to the ON Position...no matter how many times you Trigger its actuator, trying to "Turn it OFF"...


So, by a couple of mm of smoothly pushing its trigger-actuator, it will activate a series of mechanisms which will deliver an output travel of around 15 mm, and then immediately, it will "RESET" back to the ON Position.

On another image below, I have added the TRIGGER and ACTUATOR SYSTEM (it is NOT my FINAL Design until I test it on REAL TIME)...so, maybe now you see the whole picture and can understand how it works.


I have separated this whole mechanisms into "Systems" in order to build them ONE AT A TIME, checking that they do their job to my satisfaction...
So, before building the Triggers and Actuators, I must build the Lower Pressure "Pump" where all Three levers are...A, B and C Levers.
Once built, I will have to adjust them in order to close to the MAX its INPUT traveling distance, and SENSITIVITY, without giving me "FALSE TRIGGERINGS" meaning, that it would be so sensitive that it may trigger falsely, just by the vibration when running.


The Center Tension Spring is KEY to adjust its sensitivity, by getting it closer to the red line when set at the ON Position.
This operation is done by changing the positioning of the studs where the spring is mounted...and I may change some configurations once that I build the real parts and set them to work.


I want to make the actuator VERY SENSITIVE and very SMOOTH, while only traveling a very short distance (2-3 mm)...once I get it running, then I will move to a very smal MAGNETIC SWITCHING ACTUATOR set at an UPPER LEVEL, AWAY from the MAIN MAGNETICs where Motor runs...with smaller magnets in repulsion, pushing the levers to trigger.
This will definitively reduce mechanical friction from triggers and actuators to zero physical contact.




Regards




Ufopolitics