Free energy from gravitation using Newtonian Physic

[pequaide]

I am duplicating my current model so that I have an extra for demonstration purposes. I will write a step by step procedure as if we were starting up manufacturing. It will take a while, but here is what you need for materials.

About a 12 inch length of 3 inch I.D. PVC pipe, schedule 40, that is with a ? inch side wall.

A PVC pipe coupler for the 3 in. pipe, they have a 3.5 in. I.D. and a 4 in. pipe will fit on the outside of the coupler.

About a 4 in. length of 4 in. I.D. PVC pipe schedule 40. (not in the picture)

Two steel spheres WLS4480-20E Sargent ?Welch; These spheres are drilled, they are much cheaper if you can fix non-drilled spheres to a string,

I make wire loops to fit inside the drilled hole in the spheres, the hole is larger on one side than the other, this will stop the wire crimp half way through.
I use fishing wire and crimps, I will check this: my source is old.

Then I use fishing clips and 30 lb fluorocarbon fishing line, to connect it through the holes to the center.

I will submit a detailed description in the not to distant future. Thanks for your help. These machines have energy increases of over 300%. 

[supersam]

pequaide,

i've got all that on hand, except for the steel sphaere's.  the ones i saw in the photos looked to be about 3/4" steel balls.  is this about right?  if so the bulldozer guy on my jobsite had to replace something the other day and i know where maybe a hundred of these are laying on the ground getting ready to be buried or salvaged.  i also know a machinist that can drill me any kind of hole imaginable for free.  so i guess i am sitting on go right now. can't wait for construction details to replicate.

lol
sam

[pequaide]

The spheres are 1 inch in diameter; they have a mass of 66g, they have a 1/16 in. hole through the center and it is enlarged to 1/8 in. half way through.

If I did the math correctly a ? inch sphere would only have a mass of 28g. They probably would not stop the cylinder.

You could buy 1 inch spheres from MSC industrial supplies and have your friend drill the holes. They are cheaper if you can buy them solid and get them drilled (free).  I think I can have the details tomorrow.

[supersam]

pequaid,

the 66gram figure seems to be the most important part to me.   is that 66grams after or before the drilling takes place.  i can do it either way.  1" spheres, no problem.

lol
sam

[pequaide]

If you are about 66 grams (each) you will be fine, you will have to add or subtract the added mass of the pipe, no problem. Most important is the placment of the holes.

Materials list; for models with two masses added (3 in. pipe and 4 in. pipe)

1.   A length of 3 in. I.D. PVC pipe (about 10 in. per machine)
2.   A 3 in. PVC pipe coupler (one per device)
3.   A length of 4 in. inside diameter PVC pipe (about 4 in. per device)
4.   30 lb fluorocarbon fishing line (only a few inches per device but it is constantly breaking)
5.   20 lb stranded fishing wire with appropriate diameter crimps (.047 in. dia. leader sleeves)
6.   fishing connecters (two per device) interlock snaps size 3
7.   two spheres 1 in. (two per device)WLS4480-20E Sargent Welch

Tools list:
1.   #60 wire gauge drill bit .0400 in.
2.   1/16 in. drill bit
3.   1/8 in. drill bit
4.   3/16 in. drill bit
5.   ? in. drill bit
6.   saber saw blade
7.   saber saw
8.   drill press or drill motor
9.   band saw or hack saw
10.   hack saw blade
11.   calipers (you might use a compass if you have no calipers)
12.   metal scribe or awl
13.   7/8 in hole saw
14.   sandpaper; wet dry work good
15.   fibered tape to reinforce the sand paper
16.   rat tail file
17.   1 ? in. dremal cutting disk and dremal saw

Procedure:
1.   Find the smooth end of the 3 in. coupler. (one end has Genova made in USA etc. with raised printing on it)
2.   Scratch a line (with the calipers) 21.35 mm down from the smooth top end, along the side of the cylinder, all the way around the cylinder; all holes will be drilled on this line. The particular dimension (21.35 mm) is not important but that dimension needs to remain constant (always exactly the same, most calipers have a screw that will hold the dimension chosen)
3.   Make a very light indention on the line at any point, just large enough so that the caliper tip can locate it.  This is indention 1
4.   Set the calipers to 2.000 in. and mark off 2 inch intervals on the scribed line around the cylinder from indention 1, the third mark takes you to the other side (180?).  Mark off three 2 in. marks around the other side of the cylinder going the other direction from indention 1, this will leave two third marks very close together (at 180?), half way between these two marks place an indention, this is where you (later) drill the second string hole.  This is indention 2
5.   Place light indentions along the scribe line 2.538 in. counter clockwise (looking from the top) from the indentions 1 and 2. We will call these indentions 1A and 2A.
6.   Place indentions along the scribe line 3/16 in. and 1.5 in. clockwise from indentions 1 and 2. These indention will be referred to as 1B (3/16 clockwise of 1) and 1C (1.5 in. clockwise of 1), and 2B and 2C
7.   Drill1/16 in. hole toward the center line of the cylinder at indentions  1A, 1B, 1C; 2A, 2B, 2C, be careful to center the holes; 1A, and 2A are most critical
8.   Drill.0400 inch holes at 1 and 2; be careful to center the holes.
9.   Enlarge holes at 1A and 2A to 1/8 in., then 3/16 in., then ? in.  This step drilling is necessary to keep the hole from floating off center.
10.   Cut a 7/8 in. hole using the hole saw at the ? in. hole at 1A and 2A
11.   Enlarge holes at 1B, 1C and 2B, 2C to 1/8 in., then 3/16 in.
12.   Cut a slit between the holes at 1B and 1C, and 2B and 2C with a 1.25in. dremal  disk
13.   Enlarge that slit with the saber saw so that it is 3/16 wide from hole to hole.
14.   carefully extend 1B into hole1 being careful not to damage the working side of 1
15.   carefully extend 2B into 2 being careful not to damage the working side of hole 2
16.   Seat a ? in. slice of 3 in. pipe on the inside center stop ring of the coupler, this will be behind the 7/8 inch holes. This will have to be filed to seat the spheres.
17.   Place a thin sheet of plastic 7/8 in. wide 1/8 in. thick, with a centered hole, on top of the slice in step 16, the top must be level with the scribed line, and 90? to the bolt in step 18.
18.   Place a 1/16 in. (enlarge to 3.11 mm) hole between and above the 7/8 in. hole and the trailing end of the slit (1C and 2C) on the smooth top side of the cylinder for a 1/8 (by ? in.) Dia. stove bolt placement, this is used to clamp the end of the string, See photo)
19.   Make two 5/8 inch loops using the wire and leader sleeves and place them through the large side of the spheres, they will extend through about 1/8 inch.
20.   Sand and file until the spheres seat in holes 1A and 2A in the same manner.
21.   Sand and file until the slit does not catch the string.
22.   Connect the snap to the loop, connect the string to the snap, seat the sphere and feed the string through the slit, and then through the center hole of the plastic sheet seated on the plastic slice, wrap it once or twice and feed it up to the small bolt  in step 18 and clamp the string under the bolt


Pictured is a finished and an unfinished top cylinder, with a 3 in. pipe and a 4 in. pipe. I though you wanted to get started so I gave you this material; tools; and steps. I will probably change them over and over, and if you need help let me know