new magnetic motor goes 2000 rpm without load 1000 rpm with load

[bitRAKE]

This sounds great magnacoaster - I hope you continue to improve your understanding of how it works. Anything information you can share with us here is greatly appreciated.

[FredWalter]

i plan to build a new type of gen in the next few weeks to get more power and less pain out of it the same one as the wind guys have that needs to go 100 rpm

Which set of plans are you using? I have an older set of Hugh Piggott's axial flux windmill plans that I bought from http://www.scoraigwind.com

Since your interest is just in the generator (and not the windmill), there are free plans for just the axial flux generator at:

http://www.scoraigwind.com/pmgbooklet/index.htm

as well as 10,000 in cost that came from my pocket

I've easily spent twice that on alternative science projects in the last 10 years, if you include the cost of specialized tools such as oscilloscopes.

maybe if we all work togeather then the world would had green power by
now

Speaking of working together... I'm only in Waterloo one day a week on average, but if you'd like, I could drop by one day after work with my oscilloscope and related tools. We could measure what is going on in your pulse motor, measure the power that it uses, and measure the power that the alternator is producing.

[wattsup]

@magnacoaster

I wasn't trying to knock you or ridicule you at all. I have been through the same road you have been through with motors, gears, alternators, etc.so I know what your are going through. I also see you have taken out most of your web site material, which is also a good thing since I feel you were jumping the gun somewhat. In terms of the man hours involved I can only agree with you and commend you for your great efforts.

Through my own tests with simple regular gear systems, I have been able to achieve very good results but never OU. As soon as I plugged a 100 watts AC bulb on the inverter, the system would lose about 0.01 volts DC every 4 minutes or sooner, but without a load the system would turn on its own losing 0.01 volts every 15-20 minutes or so.

One of the main points on your system is your alternator which is a self exciting type. This means you need to have at least 1700 rpm before the alternator will even kick in to current production mode. So if you are running your prime mover at lets say 1000 rpm, which I feel if even high for what I saw, you are only giving the alternator 500 rpm on a 2:1 ratio. So the alternator is not even "on" and that is why your system is turning. So you need a minimum of 3400 rpm on a 2:1 ratio to even start the alternator.

Also, your chain and sprocket mechanism will kill any effeciencies you are trying to get by other means because the friction loss involved in the chain entering and exiting the sprocket is so great that you are almost doomed from the start.

Lastly, the prime mover magnet rotor with only one coil will never produce enough torque to turn the alternator in current production mode. As soon as there is just enough current applied to the rotor of the alternator, it will almost seize.

An alternative is what I am presently testing were I purchased three types of internal alternator regulators for my 105 amp CS144 Delco-Remy, one self-exciting circuit, one requiring an external supply to the circuit and another which I simply modified by removing all the circuitry and jumping the internal terminals to allow direct access to the exciter coil so that I can feed it the current level I want. I found that the last option works best since this enables you to apply your own voltage to the exciter coil even when you are lower than 1700 rpm. This permits you to do alot of tests with varying or pulsed voltages, sweep voltages and also capacitor discharged voltages, without going through the alternator's regular circuitry, hence its limitations. Don't forget that an alternator is designed to be rotated via a car engine that has loads of more torque and the necessity to build them at super high effeciencies is not there.

I have included a photo of my modified regulator. By running the jumper from those two terminals, with one side of the brush grounded, the other side can be accessed via the red wire on the regulator plug. So you now have access to the current applied to the coil and you no longer have to wait until you reach 1700 rpm. To do this you have to identify the floating brush, follow it through the regulator conductor in the structure and jump it to the red wire terminal.

Another point is the gears I was testing. My current tests is with a 24 volts 1/2 HP DC Permanent Magnet Prime Mover with a 144 tooth gear that is driving a 72 or 48 tooth gear on an alternator. I had to have the alternator rotor shaft modified to remove the threading so my gears would fit the shaft. So what I am doing is supplying only 12 volts to the 24 volts motor and using a 1:2 or 1:3 ratio (each one turn of the prime mover turns the alternator 2 or 3 turns) to turn the alternator. I am now looking to modify the DC motor to add two more brushes on the commutator at 90 degrees to the existing brushes, which I will use to try and pull off emf from the rotor via a few caps and send this power back to the batteries. This should lower the current demand on the batteries. Right now though as it stands, I am losing about 0.1 volts every 4 minutes. But this scenario is very promising since it is already successfully turning the alternator which is producing about 14 amps. But this is still not enough to reach OU. I will be looking for a high revolution strong 12volt dc motor for my next tests.

Regardless of the time I spend on this, the learning is great and very important for me to better understand this method. One thing also, I now use a clamp on dc amperage meter about 150$ bucks. I know. But it was the best investment I have ever made. Man it's great to measure dc current on a wim, without the hassle of a standard multimeter 10 amp limit and shunting.

[RhettSpencer]

To solve your heating problem you could increase the number of turns of wire on your coil.  That would reduce the amps required to generate the magnetic pulse.

You may have come up with a magic combination of parts.

There is a fellow near me that has a 4 pole ambulance generator charging 4 batteries, being driven by a 10 speed bicycle gear, that is powerd by a 120 VAC washing machine motor, that is powerd by a 12VDC to 120 VAC inverter.  He draws off extra power from the inverter to light his cabin.  I think he lucked into a magic combo of parts.  I told him if any parts even the brushes are moved a few degrees it may all stop workng.

Your GM alternator, the spark on the points and the number of turns on your coil and the gearing any one or a combination may be the magic key to your success.

I would leave the setup you have alone and build a new one as close to the same as your first one to see if it works the same. And then change out one piece at a time to see if you get any impovement.  Do not tear apart your working model use it as a baseline.


Rhett

[magnacoaster]

well i have done more testing and what i have found is

free wheeling i get 3000 rpm  mesured in hz with a reed switch

i have changed the coil wire size and it would not work
seems i have the right number of turns as well as the right
wire size

we added a electronic switch on the coil and it changed the amount of heat it made
will be making a few changes to the length of the core in the electromagnet core


will also be making a new generator got the materials today
with a bit of this and a bit of that we hope to have a unit within a week
this unit will not have cores and will produce a bit of power

will keep you posted