Rotoverter Initial Idle Results

[oouthere]

In order to tune the alternator you shoot for maximum sustained voltage using the cap bank between two of the three legs.  That's were the unloaded volts/amps comes into play.

After asking the load (series or parallel) question, I found notes further down the line that indicates all the different ways need to be tried in order tune for maximum efficiency.

Rich

[oouthere]

Well, this is disappointing looking at this site:

http://www.panacea-bocaf.org/RotoVerter.htm

It appears my above figures of measuring the alternator are exactly in the same set-up (except I do not have the drain resistors on the caps) as listed above.  If you look at it that way, yes it is overunity but it is not usable as this power is required to energize the rotor.

Rich

[wattsup]

@oouthere

I really don't understand what you are saying about the panacea web site.

The bleed resistors are only there to make sure the caps lose all power when the system is turned off so you don't get an accidental shock. I personally don't use them and this does not interfere with the function of the caps or the RV method.

When you are talking about tuning your alternator on two of three legs, do you actually mean your PM and not the alternator. Are you using an alernator or a generator ont he other side of the PM?

To see what your alternator or generator is really producing, you have to put a load on it. While loaded you have to re-tune the PM. The you can take voltage and amperage readings.

I am also confused with RV directives. In one explanation they say to use 450V caps, in another they say use three times the applied voltage. I'm using 370V caps with 120V applied.

On my RV system I'm still testing with a 5HP PM and a 108 amp car alternator and results are not good. The alternator has so much drag before it produces some juice, I can amost swear I would require a car engine to turn it. LOL

I will look for a decent generator for my next trials.

[oouthere]

@oouthere

I really don't understand what you are saying about the panacea web site.

The bleed resistors are only there to make sure the caps lose all power when the system is turned off so you don't get an accidental shock. I personally don't use them and this does not interfere with the function of the caps or the RV method.

I totally agree, I was just pointing out that is the only difference in their pictured set-up and mine.

When you are talking about tuning your alternator on two of three legs, do you actually mean your PM and not the alternator. Are you using an alernator or a generator ont he other side of the PM?

To see what your alternator or generator is really producing, you have to put a load on it. While loaded you have to re-tune the PM. The you can take voltage and amperage readings.

I am using a 5hp Baldor three phase motor for the alternator.  In order for it to produce any voltage you must put a cap bank between two of the three legs or else it will not produce anything.  You can hear the PM drag down when the caps charge.  I'm simply measuring the voltage and amperage at the cap bank with no additional loading.

IMO, the readings are misleading....to the average browser you think they have a load and it's producing o/u, but once you start playing with these devices you understand that what is shown is not usable o/u but just what it takes to energize the rotor.  Their readings are across a capacitor only, no load.



I am also confused with RV directives. In one explanation they say to use 450V caps, in another they say use three times the applied voltage. I'm using 370V caps with 120V applied.

On my RV system I'm still testing with a 5HP PM and a 108 amp car alternator and results are not good. The alternator has so much drag before it produces some juice, I can amost swear I would require a car engine to turn it. LOL

I will look for a decent generator for my next trials.

At this point I'm looking at the Deliverance circuit as they believe it can extract the energy without further loading the RV set-up.  At this point I do not know but intend to continue playing with it as time and money are available.

We'll get it some day!

Rich

[wizkycho]

@oouthere

some things are not clear to me or you are making it unclear.

To resolve and clarify:

1. only thing that has to be tuned for resonance is Prime Mover with its mechanical load.
If Mechanical Load is changed, you allso must change capacitance to achieve resonance

what is mechanical load ?

Mechanical load is your alternator with electrical load attached. More electrical load , more mechanical load
for Prime mover.

2. You can allso achieve resonant points of prime mover if you build variabile frequency inverter 12VDC to 120V60hz-400Hz/220V50Hz-400Hz.
first set "mechanical load" at desired level (4-5 times the input should be - Input is 1/3 or 1/4 of max power of prime mover) then find resonace with inverter set at 50Hz/60Hz and vary capacity - when found leave it. after that try with changing freq for further tune.

3. Only after you find resonance with mechanical load and "desired" max Opower/Ipower ratio then you proceed
making circuits for aditional extraction.

Prime mover in rotoverter is Asyinchron Induction three phase motor.

Igor