Solid state Bedini charger from John Peters

[nul-points]

hey Nerzh

oops, my joke backfired - you're very kind to take my ramblings seriously!

you're certainly a fearless and confident experimenter: "all [your] cores are glued!"

i use electric insulating tape on mine... what does that say about me?!?  ;o)


actually, i think the JLN cct you show is maybe not so much like a JT as it first seems:

the JT, as you say, is usually common emitter - this is a voltage amplifier, it takes a small signal at input (base) and produces a large signal at output (collector load) - but it is not the best way to supply power here, using a transistor

JLN's TEP here, again as you say, is common collector, and this is very good at supplying power - however, it doesn't provide voltage gain

so i think JLN is using this cct just as a power switch - the transistor Q1 will be biased 'on' by R1 until current rises in L2, mirrored in L1, pulsing C1 negatively to switch Q1 off, then C1 charges up again via R1, allowing R1 to turn Q1 on again, etc

the only thing is, it looks to me like L1 is connected with reversed polarity from what it would need to work correctly (?!)

so - pretty much a switched-charge cct, pumping charge from C1 to C2

(i think you did a very successful experiment showing the resulting charge anomaly with an arrangement like this?)

i agree that the Xfr is used in a similar way to the JT, for timing: when the Tr output is 'on' the Tr input gets turned 'off', and vice versa

i checked out your JT page (mentioned above) - a good coverage of Gadgetmall's claims, i think

i look forward to seeing some more info about your own variations on the JT circuit

i seem to remember that Gadget said that the Bcap had a 'minimum' voltage of around 0.5V (0.544V?), in which case it stores slightly less than the energy for 2.6V; ie, (2.6v - 0.544v) gives approx 2100 Joules on a 650F Bcap

all the best
sandy

[NerzhDishual]

Hello Bass Player,

No, your joke did not backfired! I was only pretending to take your rambling seriously. So, it was my joke which backfired. Was it not?
So, I am not so kind....

Yes, I glued the core of my SSG coils and I also used a hammer to push the welding rods in it...Sure!

Thanks for your explanations.
I have still not fully understood the "common collector" transistor, and I do not speak about the "common base" one!. It will be for my second year course, due to my mind slowness.

yes, I did reproduce this JLN CCT with positive results. Perhaps, I made a convenient mistake while wiring the coil?

Picture attached of his "rewritten" CCT.

Yes, the Gadgetmail's 650 cap has a minimum voltage of 0.5 volts.

I tried , this afternoon to charge a 1 farad 5 volts cap (see picture) with my double coil JT. It has also a slightly minimum voltage but if your short it for a while it goes to about zero.

The results:
With the cap across L3 (after the diode).
The 3 leds are only dimming.
Input amp consumption: 8 ma.
After 60 second I got a voltage of 0.475 volts across the cap.

With the cap across L2 (after a diode):
The 2 Leds are OK.
Input amp consumption about 11/12 ma.
After 60 second I got a voltage of 0.400 volts across the cap.

So, it looks like the 5 volts caps likes the 12 volts spikes. You can also see something similar in a SSG.

Very Best

[niofox]

Ok I found something I think is very interesting and may take alot of hassle out of coil winding.
I went to the store today and got them to wind me a bifilar coil the same length as my original that I used for all the above testing.
The difference is, I told them not to wind it onto anything.  So it ended up looking like that coil you would find around a crt screen tube if you opened it up.  For those who don't know, this would be like the window motor coils that Bedini uses in shape.  I figured my charging effect would be crap on this since its not tightly wound, or very close together.
So then comes my surprise when it ends up charging just as well if not better (its hard to tell just staring at voltage changes)

I will now construct another duplicate solid state bedini ssg circuit and try to drain both of my almost identical ups batteries then see which one charges faster.  For a more accurate assessment I will then drain them again and swap them in the chargers to see if one of the batteries may just be better conditioned or something.

Might not get all this done till tomorrow night though.  Day job and all

[niofox]

Ok guys, I got a lil crazy this morning and added in a my 2nd  as shown in the attached diagram (not mine, can't remember who, credit to them all the same for drawing it)

Of course, the same solid state modifications mentioned earlier were done with the duplicate coil circuit (in red)
Initial results of the testing with this setup are very interesting.  Either my charging rate when through the roof with the radiant spikes, or I've introduced some other problem I don't quite understand.

Here's what's happening:
1 coil - coil gets hot to touch (as mentioned above), voltage on the 30v adapter I'm using reads 28v, amp draw is 500ma
2 coil - coils don't get nearly as hot, voltage on 30v adapter hits 24v, amp draw is 900ma
The adapter is rated at 30v / 500ma so its understandable why the voltage drops so bad i think

UPS Battery Test (12v / 7.2 amp hour)
Testing time (about 10 to 20 minutes)
1 coil - voltage shoots up then levels out and trickles up .01 at a time steadily
2 coil - voltage shoots up way more, levels out and trickles faster by far, then hits a limit and seems to stop going up
In fact, at one point it dipped down about 0.1v then tried to rise once more but didn't seem to be going anywhere

Car Battery 1 Test (12v / 50 amp hour)
Testing time (~10 minutes)
1 coil - voltage shoots up massively then levels out and trickles up .01 at a time steadily but seems to cap at a certain point
2 coil - voltage shoots up way more than 1 coil, levels out and trickles faster by far, then caps out at a higher point than 1 coil
When the charger is turned off, the battery always comes back to rest around 10.5 ~ 10.7 volts.  I suspect this one has a couple bad cells in it or something.  Moving on to my 2nd car battery

Car Battery 2 Test (12v / 50 amp hour)
Testing time (~30 minutes so far)
1 coil - voltage shoots up massively then levels out and trickles up .01 at a time steadily (I've never left it long enough to see if it would cap out)
2 coil - voltage shoots up way more than 1 coil, levels out and trickles faster by far at first, levels out more and trickles like 1 coil
Currently its reading 12.05v as I type this.  I will leave it running while I go to work and see what I have when I get back

Oh, interesting point on this battery.  I poured out the liquid inside (as much as I could get out) and replaced it with filtered water (one of those fancy drinking water filters).  When I read the voltage it was 8.12v right after I did that.  Before that it seemed to have a similar problem to the battery above, although it had a higher resting voltage ... like 11.5 or so.  Anyway, I charged it on 1 coil for ~8 hours and it came to rest at 11.56v when I stopped it (even though it was still trickling nicely)
So it seems that changing the electrolyte is it?  Changing the stuff in side to plain water helped recover what was once a reject battery I got free from a car shop.  I will try this changing process with my 1st battery this evening and see if it helps that one

[guruji]

Hi Nerzdishual I am like you in electronics. I learned with expierience by myself. I want to tell you regarding the gadgetmall circuit that Gadget used to do a pot with a ceramic cap to a resistor on the base of the transistor. He used to say to find resonance with the resistor. When this is found current drops while leds get brighter. I tried this but still experimenting to find resonance.
Thanks for sharing those schematics.