The Brnbrade Coil/Overunity?

[starcruiser]

@GK,

If you have built a Cook Coil setup try your guitar toy on it. That might give you an interesting result.

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi Earl, and All.

I also am in the same boat, having my recent PM's all going unanswered.  So for what it is worth, I think there might not be much further help.  If it comes from him, fine, but I would not count on it.  I am also want everyone to remember that I am just a facillitator in the beginning.  That was my only involvement, other than trying to build his coil some time ago with even LESS information.  Of course it did not work.  It was built in correctly. 

Also, BEP found this out, that the AL varnish turned out to be a marine product to prevent metal/saltwater problems.  I am still trying to find some.  This is what I am going to build with.

Lot's of good ideas here from many of you. 

My question for the day, "Will there ever be an OU device with proper documentation?"

Boy wouldn't that be nice.  I get just as frustrated as all of you.  I just hide it better.   

Cheers,
Bruce

[z_p_e]

I trust this was a valuable learning experience for many...especially those that reacted negatively to the very same questions and notions I expressed at the very beginning.

In addition, Please heed the following:

http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,1679.msg38281.html#msg38281

http://www.overunity.com/index.php/topic,2654.msg38296.html#msg38296

Cheers,
Darren

[TKL]

Also, BEP found this out, that the AL varnish turned out to be a marine product to prevent metal/saltwater problems.  I am still trying to find some.  This is what I am going to build with.

This is commonly refered to as "anti-fouling bottom paint".  It is used mostly on pontoons and other aluminum hulled boats.  It is caustic, and requires a special applicators license to purchase.  It does have aluminum oxide, which helps prevent electrolysis, as fiberglass bottom boats use copper oxide.  When owners mistakenly put this wrong paint on their aluminum hulls, they make a nice waterline high battery which removes the pontoon from the paint, and often the boat from the surface of the water....  The idea is as the bottom paint wears away due to abrasion from salt and minerals, and general friction, the aluminum (or copper) oxide prevents the barnacles and slime from growing on the hull.  Some of the newer ablative anti-fouling paints contain a form of pesticide, but often don't work well.

A few years back, the aluminum paint formula was changed, mostly for environmental reasons.  It may still be available, but you will not be able to buy it as a consumer.  Over-the-counter aluminum bottom paints do not use the same material, and thus do not require special applicators license for purchase.  However, the fiberglass boat paints can be purchased with cupreous oxide.  Most of them are an epoxy based paint, and out of curiosity in these applications may cease working after a period of time.  The theory on the boats is that they must be launched within a short period of time - usually a few hours to about 30 days.  In that period of time, the epoxy is curing while in the air.  Once it finally "hard-cures" no more abrasion occurs, hence no more anti-fouling characteristics.  Thus, it must be repainted every year, after it sits out for the winter and fully cures.  It is possible in these experimental test applications, the epoxy could cure, and form an interesting dielectric - it may take up to 60 days. n Moreover, the effectiveness of these paints may work early on, and may quit later - maybe not.  It is hard to say.

Best bet for locating aluminum based bottom paint will be in talking directly to a marine dealer based on the coast, as in-land marina's will likely have little call for bottom painting (no salt water - no barnacles).  Sweet talking the service manager may be the only way to acquire this paint.  You may be able to purchase a small amount if you mention that you are looking to do some touch-ups on a scratched hull.  You could explain that you are trying to solve the world's energy problems, and his donation could be contributing to the betterment of mankind, but he might more likely buy the touch-up reason....

Lastly, read the ingredients of anything you buy - you may find that some people are using the copper based paints, using some of the better (or special) primers - that are also acting as an insulator.  Some may not know, and others may being trying to just make a sale.

[Doug56]

@bob.rennips

I think we all agree this must be an oscillating system. This in turn means the wire lengths, including the wire connecting the coils together MUST BE identical in each coil set, other wise one coil set will have a different resonance frequency to the other, and as you want one coil set to 'ping' the other coil set they both have to be identical. As you know at resonance the impedance is effectively 0, leaving only the wire resistance.

In my previous PM, Brnbrade says that the coils length MUST BE identical to both, and not the wires length. "Thick wires = less resitence. Thin wires = more resitence." - say Brnbrade. 

@Earl and All

I have insisted to Brnbrade makes at least one sketch at free hand. As professional designer I have conditions to improve the design and post in this forum, but Brnbrade only answers asking for patience therefore he wants make more tests and later would make a detailed scheme.

I am so surprised as much as you with the Brnbrade's new experiment and so anxious as much as you to replicate the first devide. But I still don't having the answers.

I am quite sure that Brnbrade understands everything what you write in this forum. In PM I feel that Brnbrade is in high spirits with experiments, and I also felt that he wants to pass to us something more complet. Perhaps I am right, perhaps not. But I don't know why Brnbrade don't reply us, and begins a new project without explaining the first one.

I already begin my own device based in that we know so far with the Brnbrade experiments and with the Cook's patent. I will finish it in this night and then I will make the tests that later will be shown here.

I agree with Earl and I would like to have the answers more quickly. But, for now we can only make tests based on attempt and error.

Below I'm requesting to Brnbrade the scheme of first device (again) and their capacitors values.

@Brnbrade

E a? Brnbrade, beleza? Perguntas:

1- Voc? poderia fazer um layout do primeiro experimento?
2- Quais os valores dos capacitores usados nas montagens, como o que ? mostrado nas primeiras fotos e naquelas que n?o havia nenhuma bateria alimentando o circuito?

O pessoal t? bastante ansioso para replicar seu experimento.

Obrigado e abra?os,

Regards,

Doug56