Over Unity NOT Achieved!!!

[oouthere]

Hi Rich,

Have you tried to hook up the output to the input?
(closing the loop) to try and make it free running?
with a emergency cut out in case it does free run of course,,

Cliff,

Hiya Cliff,

It is not possible because the alternator is being driven nearly twice as fast as it was designed so the output frequency is nearly double as well.

Rich

[oouthere]

Hi Rich,
could you please make a video of this test ?

Many thanks.

For all Rotorverter users,
please document your results with videos and post them here.
I really would like to see such an overunity video
where you can really see input and output power
measurements and driving a real load.

Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.

Hi Stefan,  I'll try to get around to that but it will not be this weekend.  My garage is a mess so this is an embarrasing request    My daughters race motocross and we are off to the track for the rest of the weekend to do practice.

[oouthere]

Hi Rich,
As I understand it the idea is quite simple in that you use different value capacitors for different RPMs, across the field windings.

Not exactly.  My 3 phase motor has a set rpm to run (with some frequency slippage).  You tune the motor for minimal current draw only, not rpms.

I have a single phase induction motor in my drill press that I could try to experiment with.
The only thing that puzzles me is that this is such a simple change, why has is not been picked up before?

I never would have thought of it!!!

Also, are you using a three phase supply, or perhaps creating your own 3 phase supply?

The idea behind the RV is to use a three phase motor 240/480 volt wired at the highest voltage and ran off single phase 120VAC between two of the three phase (1 & 2 in my case).  The cap bank is placed between the hot lead (2) and the other unused lead (3).  I have no idea how to run a single phase motor in RV but they say it can be done.

Rob

[wattsup]

@mramos

Your well pump (assuming deep well submersible pump) already should have a pump start box with a capacitor already in it. Also depending on the depth of the pump in the well, you may need all the power. When converting a 3ph motor to RV, instead of the motor runnniign on 460V it is running on 120V on two of the phases. This brings down the HP to half or less then the original design spec. So it may not be a good idea to fiddle around with your well pump. Also, well pumps usually run at at 220V.

[gyulasun]

This is a redundant post but I think it is important enough to carry the subject title.  I'm using two rebuilt motors.  The PM is an ancient, high speed (can't remember the rpm but close to 3,600) 7.5hp three phase 9 wire unit.  The alternator is a Baldor 5hp three phase low speed (somewhere close to 1600rpm) 9 wire unit.  The units are coupled at 1:1.    My best non-loaded result for the set-up is:
PM: 5.4 amps @ 121VAC = 653.4 watts
Alternator:  8.7 amps @ 420 VAC = 3,654 watts inside the alternator
The first sucessful test outside of the alternator with o/u is today with these results:
PM: 5.5 amps @ 120VAC = 660 watts in
Alternator:  5.22 amps @ 274 volts = 1430 watts
The load is an old cooktop with all four burners set to maximum.  The tag states 7.6kw @ 240VAC.

Anway....YESSSSS!!!

Rich

Hi Rich,

I would like to tell you the followings:
The label/tag on your old cooktop says 7.6kW @ 240VAC.  This means that when you normally use the burners from the grid, the current is 7600Watt/240V=31.66Amper from your 240V AC mains, when all the four burners are fully on, ok?
So I would suggest to check carefully the AC voltage drop across the cooktop terminals to really know how much output power you really have when you insert the cooktop in series with the cap bank at the alternator.

One more thing: Could you estimate your RPM so that you know the resonant frequency of your alternator (and then your PM due to the joint common axis)?  Because if you use measuring instruments for current/voltage checkings that are calibrated for 50 or 60 Hz mains frequency and your resonant output frequency is much different (obviously higher), then you can be misled by your instruments.  You could use oscilloscope for checking the frequency or a digital multimeter with freq measuring capability some friends near you may help you out if you don't have such DVM.

One question: have you considered using your Baldor 5HP as the Prime Mover and the 7.5HP motor as the alternator?  I cannot say if it were better or not but maybe would be worth trying which combination results in less input and more output power (putting the 7.5HP motor to generate would normally involve less copper loss than you have now with the Baldor because the inner resistance of a higher HP motor usually is less than that of a lower HP motor).

Regards
Gyula