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Overunity Machines Forum



WFC Tubes conditioning

Started by Duranza, September 10, 2007, 12:37:03 PM

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0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

RunningBare

I change the water when I see it begin to turn a pinkish color, it is actually rust but looks pink in the early stage, or if I'm feeling lazy I wait till the brown muck has collected on the surface  ;D

Do not leave it too long when conditioning, it will eat your tubes before the oxide protection is in place, depending on your setup the ideal current for conditioning will have to be by trial and error, keep it low enough so the water does not heat up, but not too low, I've found anything below 200ma on mine seems to have a reverse effect, it does seem that 300ma for 30 minutes does me ok, then I dry the tubes as indicated earlier.


Quote from: dutchy1966 on September 13, 2007, 10:09:11 AM


Hi Runningbare,

Seems like you have a pretty straightforward way to do conditioning. I guess I'm gonna try it too when i have my replication done. Can you let us know how often you change water and dry the coating?

regards

Robert

Duranza

Ok... another update... The coating has to be permeable to work... I tryed teflon coating some plates to test. After a few runs I got no bubbles at all. I figured that either i need a whole lot more voltage or the coating has to let some water though. The coating sure is nonconductive when dry, but not when humid. Lots more to work with... I'll post anything new....
The only way to Validate is to Replicate!

RunningBare

Quote from: Duranza on September 15, 2007, 05:23:52 AM
Ok... another update... The coating has to be permeable to work... I tryed teflon coating some plates to test. After a few runs I got no bubbles at all. I figured that either i need a whole lot more voltage or the coating has to let some water though. The coating sure is nonconductive when dry, but not when humid. Lots more to work with... I'll post anything new....


If the coating is too thick then even the back emf from the coils will not overcome it, the tubes are capacitors in effect but they are being hit by a DC pulse, this will charge them until there is no potential difference so no more current flow.

The circuit will always need a current flow for the coils to do there work, this would happen through the waters own resistance where the tubes are not coated, eg inside of inner tube and outside of outer tube, if your using distilled water then the resistance will be too high for the coils to build a current charge.

Duranza

Would you recomend using electrolyte with the coated plates? My first test was in distilled and then tap water and none worked... Only if more people were getting their hands dirty.... One of us will reach the goal sooner or later.....
The only way to Validate is to Replicate!

RunningBare

Personally I will not use any electrolyte other than what is already in the tap water, this is the Meyer way and in my opinion how it should be replicated, adding electrolyte kinda defeats the purpose of "replicating" Meyers work, if however your tap water has low conductivity(which would be unusual given all the chemicals they throw into it!), then you may need to add something.

The claim by Stan Meyers was "HHO from tap water", and thats the way I'm replicating.


Quote from: Duranza on September 15, 2007, 10:11:11 AM
Would you recomend using electrolyte with the coated plates? My first test was in distilled and then tap water and none worked... Only if more people were getting their hands dirty.... One of us will reach the goal sooner or later.....