Ultracap powered electric vehicles.

[Dingus Mungus]

Wow those kits looks great! Especially if it's all compatible with the ultracap storage system.

Yeah... The easy pot control plus efficiency is why I'm leaning twards a brushless motor. Will any basic 5k pot be able to handle the possible 30amp+ loads? Also how did you build your charging unit? My biggest worry with these things is overcharging... and the crazy POP that would follow.

Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
~Dingus Mungus

[IronHead]

the pot does not handle the load the controller does . Get a controller for the motor rating .
If you go brushless the controller is already  part of the deal  you dont need to buy a controller at least from what I have seen.
Charging, they charge like a battery only taking what you give , and like a battery you can give to much . In this case same as a battery it will gas and pop it will go.
So, Make sure the changer has shut down.
I also use a battery with the circuit . long as the voltage cut out is matched like used in charger to battery there is no problem .So if you do a 13 volt system then a car charger with shut off will work  if you go with 48 volts like I have on the scooter you need a charger for 48 volts with cut out.

The main resign why I use a battery is because when a cap spends its charge it is done ,dead.
A lead acid battery on the other hand drops slow and still maintains a small charge. so when the caps die you will know you are only running on a low charge battery and need to get to a power source .

If you get into rapid charging, this is where you need to do some testing  mainly keeping tabs on heat as you charge. Here you might see how NiCad  quick charging is done  this type of charger does not shut down on volts  but shuts down on heat . Or some use a timer  which is dangerous in a ultra cap situation. I would not push the rapid charge thing  as there is no need on a bike or scooter . In a car however  it is a must.   The best place to sense heat on a cap is on the negative post just like you might find in a Nicad pack  but it is the negative casing on nicads that heats quickly ..

EDITED

[billmehess]

Hi Dingus

Some thoughts for you to consider:
5 ea 2.7volt/3000f caps in series would give you 13.5 volts at 600f. Remember caps in series are divided by the number of caps. The only way this could stay at 3000f would be to have a matrix or assemble them in a 3x3 fashion thus requiring a total of 9 caps to be at 3000f.
Considering the 5 in series though here are the numbers:

e=  v squared x capacitance in farads all divided by 2.
e= 13.5 squared x 600  /2
e=182 x 600 /2
e= 218400 watt seconds.
Now if you are using a 12 volt motor that draws say 8 amps or approx 100 watts.
Divide 100 into 218400 for 2184 watt seconds of use.
This device would run for 36 minutes.
Employing the matrix would give you your 3000 f but then you are charging 9 caps instead of 3. Also I'm not sure what 12 volts at 8 amps would really do for you in terms of overall performance.
Hope this helps.
Bill

[TheOne]

What are the size of this capacitor?

[Dingus Mungus]

Hmmmmmmmmmm...

Theres a lot of stuff to buy... Unfortunately I'm hoping to only have to buy the caps new.
I hope those caps really fall in price soon, as a 48volt system won't be cheap enough for me yet.
When it does get cheap enough though, I'll be driving to work on 8 cents a kW @ 70-80% efficiency!

Thanks for all the valuable input IH! I hope others will catch the hint and start evaluating a EV for themselves.
~Dingus Mungus

EDIT: Doh! Mahess is right... I forgot these weren't batteries! LOL! I'm still evaluating how to go about setting this up. Hopefully this thread will help people get some ideas and basic designs out there for the home replicator to build. Sorry for my calc errors fellas...

Good to see ya again Mahess!!!