Selfrunning cold electricity circuit from Dr.Stiffler

[DrStiffler]

@Loki
I do not see a heat sink on the transistor, this is good, now shoot the temp of the transistor and the temp of the 22uh and the neon?? This will not say much, but will say a lot to m, like if the transistor is near ambient (+1->+2'C) and the 22uh is next and the neon hottest. Next of course, just to compare, what is the input.

[amigo]

In my tests so far I did not notice any heat increase coming off of the transistor, 22uH or the NE2. Of course I could only use my fingers to touch the components, but should there be any heat change and does that signify proper operation or not?

I'm still struggling with proper tuning (nothing new there ) since I have wound several variable coils, the one that seems to behave the best is the one that has the most windings and is a bit different (about 2x more turns) than the reference design from Dr.Stiffler...

[ramset]

AMIGO I saw a fellow selling new laser point thermometer on ebay 18.00 ILL try to find it I believe it only went to 250 degrees[Should be fine ]   Chet

[Loki67671]

@Dr. Stiffler,
No heat sink required! Transistor is cool. Looked to be approximately 60F. 22uH looked to be approximately 64F. I could not get a reading on the Neon for some reason besides 58F. I have to take these readings with a black isolation surface as you have reminded me. I will do that ASAP! It is starting to look good but I'm not quite there yet! I get RF burned on the 22uH so I won't be "touching" that too much more.  20VDC at 89ma in this pic. I can and did have very similar values at much less input so what I'm telling you right now is just ballpark. Will have more precise details as soon as possible.

Best regards

Jim

[DrStiffler]

In my tests so far I did not notice any heat increase coming off of the transistor, 22uH or the NE2. Of course I could only use my fingers to touch the components, but should there be any heat change and does that signify proper operation or not?

I'm still struggling with proper tuning (nothing new there ) since I have wound several variable coils, the one that seems to behave the best is the one that has the most windings and is a bit different (about 2x more turns) than the reference design from Dr.Stiffler...

@Amigo
The simplest possible exciter, one plug and one high current neon (<1mA) when running properly will have the 22uH and Neon so Hot that unless you don't feel heat or have think skin, will burn to the touch (not rf burn or sensation from the rf) real burn from heat. When one has a temp gun some (relative temps can be checked), but they only indicate things are working, but of course can't tell how well. In this simple circuit if the transistor (without heat sink) or the 10uH get hot or even overly warm to the touch then its not running in the right mode. I have am at the point where I can pretty much tell by the color of the gas in the neon when it is close to right. I told Loki that to me it appears to be either a very bright orange with a reddish cast to it (of course here we have, do we have a standard bulb).

Some of you are having far to much trouble tuning this thing, I just can't get a handle on why, but when we are not using 100% identical parts, whats new right?

For those that don't want to purchase a PCB from me, I have decided to sell a bag of selected and correct parts that one can use on a proto board, maybe this will help, it will cost a bit above my cost to pay for the gas to have someone take it to the mail. This may help also.

@All
Loki showed something in his last picture which I have hinted at and may have a picture floating around, but that pro-boards parasitic Al backing plate is and always has been a component from the very start (page 2-5) and I just posted a couple of days ago a circuit showing how the circuit sees this plate and how all points are coupled back to every other point. Its the diagram with the orange caps of 7.5pF hooked everywhere.

When you put this thing on a PCB this has to be accounted for in the double layer design or exciter will not work in the proper mode.

ANyway Loki shows the free standing AV Plug and white LED running with no connection back to the exciter (other than the communications coupling to the Al plate). This is similar to my example of a very simple probe with a AV Plug and LED mounted on a plastic stick, except with the stick you need to directly apply to a hot spot, but the free standing plug should fire a LED anywhere on the board that sees the backing plate.