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Overunity Machines Forum



Selfrunning cold electricity circuit from Dr.Stiffler

Started by hartiberlin, October 11, 2007, 05:28:41 PM

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0 Members and 12 Guests are viewing this topic.

hoptoad

Quote from: hansvonlieven on November 18, 2007, 05:07:31 PM
Exactly what I thought, hence the optocoupler.

Hans von Lieven

Hans, you're great with brevity. You said in a few words what I tried to say in a few paragraphs!   LOL :D

Cheers from the Toad who Hops

hartiberlin

Hi Ron and all,
the circuit board you are using with the 2 alu back plates really
treat your circuit very differently than my circuit board, that has no metal backplates !

Please try to build your circuit on a different experimentation board without
alu backplates and you will see, that you need at least 20 to 30 cm wire between
the last coil and the Avramenko plug to light the LEDs up at all and then the resonance frequency will
be at around 1.5 to 2 Mhz only.

I just modified my oscillator circuit and can now go from 1 Mhz to 20 Mhz
and I only get now a resonance at around 2 Mhz not anymore higher !
It really depends how long the wires are from the litzcoil to the avramenko plug.

There RF effects are a real "bitch".
As I said, try it without your alu backplates and all
will be different.
Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum

zaydana

Stefan,
Dare I say it, you are probably the person who should be being told to try it with the backplate. We're not trying to replicate stuff that doesn't work here, we're trying to replicate what Dr. Stiffler has apparently already got. Building stuff that we know doesn't work won't prove anything.

Also, please have a look at the experiments Dr. Stiffler and I outlined - they're rather similar. You cannot just measure the DC current going through the LEDs to check for over-unity, you actually need to check the input to the entire circuit against the light output. This is because we can't be sure that any over-unity effects behave in the same way that standard electricity does.

Lastly, due to imperfections in light meters and response times in LEDs, you must feed the same signal through the LEDs in the SEC, and the LEDs by themselves. Otherwise all you prove is that your equipment doesn't have an infinite resolution and accuracy, which goes without saying.


Hans,
I'm a bit of a noob and don't know the specifics of optocouplers, but is it possible that if we are dealing with cold electricity here, an optocoupler wouldn't be the way to go? While being sealed off is ideal, it seems to me that what we really want is to measure the output of the LEDs directly, not via an amplifier. The simpler the better. Of course, I could be wrong...


P.S.
Stefan: You really need to change the color for unvisited links to something other than the text color around it. From an actual web developer's perspective, it is a really bad usability and design decision. Ideally, you should just let them be blue like everywhere else.

amigo

I have built the new "Thomas" oscillator circuit and I must say I'm quite impressed :D

I only have about 20 blue and white LEDs but boy do they shine bright or what. I did not have 2N3904 so I've used 2N2222A (found one with hFE of ~210). The circuit apparently oscillates at ~1.5MHz and uses ~32mA of current from my 12V gel battery though that figure seems to fluctuate up and down, I've seen it go up to 70mA when I was probing points with my scope but that's just temporary.

Either way a word of caution to everyone building this is not to just go around touching spots or bridging them with fingers on your two hands because there's 120-180Vp-p on the secondary output and you could (will) get shocked.

So now that this works how do we get rid of the battery altogether? ;D

hartiberlin

@Amigo,
can you please show a picture of your Thomas circuit ?
Did you built it also onto an experimentator board, that has 2 alu backplates ?

How do you control the resonance frequency with this circuit ?
How do you adjust it for optimal resonance ?

I hope we can get rid of these experimentator boards and can try to
create something that works on a normal PCB board, so one could
create a kit that also works without any problems.
Stefan Hartmann, Moderator of the overunity.com forum