Nathan Stubblefield Earth battery/Self Generating Induction Coil Replications

[jeanna]

My gut says the easiest way to do this is a small hobby motor with a thin plastic disc or wooden disk attached to it with 4 strips of foil cris crossed on the top and extending to the edge and over it.

So picture this little motor with the disk horizontal and a terminal from each wire on either side of it just barley touching the disk. when you turn the motor on the disk with foil will make and break the connection for you and all we need is a little pot . potentiometer or variable resistor so we have a knob to physically control the speed it makes and breaks the connection.                                                                                                                         

Joe,
I like this idea a lot.
Would you post a pic of this once you have the logistics worked out? (I am sure it is easy but I don't know the tricks of building with metal and wires.)
jeanna

[sid10]

thanks for straightening me out on that. So when i set the meter right i get 6.5 milliamps.
Dang I really thought i was going somewhere.
Sid

[Localjoe]

@ TO ALL
I stretched out the complete length of wire i used , Then cut it so i wasn't wrapping off the spool much easier let me tell you.  Basicly once you insulate your copper you should secure the iron wire to the right of the copper wire side by side and then use a libral ammt of tape to secure them together.  Then Tape that joint securely to your bolt and make sure this one is tight that way you can twist the bolt in your hand while forming your wraps. Im right handed so i held it in my right and twisted clockwise. Thats the easiest way ive found so far, my wire is large tho the smaller gauges might not be that hard to wind.

@Jenna

You said
"@all
If the dielectric properties of an insulator are important then why do you get it wet? doesn't wetness stop the dielectric action of the cloth? This is a theory question and has nothing to do with my building today, but I am thinking along these lines a lot."

The reason here is this.. for our primary coil to also be a power source, we need the galvanic action.. hence the water electrolyte.. This is crucial for this self generating induction coil because other wise it wouldn't work by itself you would need a separate power source.  Normally youd be right about wire insulation for high voltages .. you dont want to break down the dielectric in that case. But since this "inudction coil/ transformer" makes its own juice to start we want a mock battery setup where the electrolyte is allowed to pass freely between the electrodes yet not have the electrodes metal physically touching..

In the first few paragraphs of the patent he makes an important point.. The concept of this galvanic action/ voltaic pile with metals is not new.. but the idea of winding them side by side in a bifilar fashion on a iron core is new...
He later states this secures two results,   One to provide the necessary power to be self generating and two this is the clincher,

The effects of the galvanic reaction on the metals are reduced because of the inherent magnetic field setup by primary coil and the central bolt.. I don't understand how this works but i know its a key part as to why these things worked for ages and the wire didn't get corrosion.   

  hope that helps a little in your endavours

@Sid

Dont be discouraged yours was just a little small,  Id say something about twice the length of that would work much better for you.  There are going to have to be at least 2 or three layers on the primary so as to secure a strong voltaic couple meaning the more balls our primary has the larger the disturbance in the secondary will be . 

Good work folks
                                 Joe

[Pirate88179]

@ Jeanna:

Great idea for the wire feed holder!!!  I think I can actually adapt a coat hanger to your idea.  Wonderful!

@ Joe:

I am with you on the learning curve prior to the ss 555 timer ic.  An idea to help might be to solder some stranded wire to both the end of our leads and use them as "brushes".  This way, contact would be maintained through a larger parameter of spacing and, the wear on the "foil" or conductor on the spinning disk would be minimized.  What do you think?

@sid10:

I agree with Joe on both counts.  First, I have not worked with digital meters in a long time and it took me a while to figure out what I was reading so, welcome to the club.  A lot of us (most?) are not electronic experts and are quickly trying to learn what we need to learn to work on these projects.  I never knew learning could be this much fun.  Second, I agree that longer and bigger is better. (more surface area)  I am glad you are working with us.

@ Jeanna:

Your cell looks better dressed for a night out on the town than mine does.  Must be the silk, ha ha.  Great job!

Bill

[Localjoe]

@ Bill

Your supernatural detective powers have taken the words right out of my mouth

"An idea to help might be to solder some stranded wire to both the end of our leads and use them as "brushes".  This way, contact would be maintained through a larger parameter of spacing and, the wear on the "foil" or conductor on the spinning disk would be minimized.
I was about to say something very similar along these lines


Two things-- The wire that we use for brushes should be stranded and of thin strands .. not small wire just fine stranded not thick stranded or solid core            The wire we use for the brushes should be the same metal as the wire its attaching to as to preserve the essence of the voltaic couple.

Im making a small diagram in publisher to upload in a little while.. it will make the rotary gap easier to see visually.. well hopefully since i cant extrude solids or anyting fun without a modeling program.. i lost my light wave disk.. kicks the desk.