Ward's Build of Bob Boyce's TPU

[Bob Boyce]

I am in the TN/GA/NC tristate region, not Colorado. Too bad you're so far away, as one thing I have a lot of is PCs. I bought a lot of ex-military servers by the pallet load from US Govt auctions. Not really fast, as compared to more modern PCs, but many of them are EMP hardened ;-)

Wifey is doing better thank you, and yes, she is back home.

I am still having a heck of a time with getting crappy test equipment from ebay that is being advertised as better than it is. My most recent aquisitions, a pair of Wavetek 859, look as though they were recovered boat anchors, rusted and corroded inside and out, yet they sold at a premium because one was advertised as working. They were photographed front view, which hid the rust on the backs and bottoms of the cases. The "working" one lights up but nothing else works. Opened up and found boards missing in the "working" unit, and the second parts unit was almost totally gutted inside. Front panel from the "working" unit has a dead LED segment - and dead keypad, parts unit entire display dead except for one digit that lights when tested - and dead keypad. Both front panels were tested on a working Wavetek 859 that I bought a while back that arrived damaged.

Bob

[Earl]

Bob,

one way of combating fraud on ebay is to always ask question via the ebay system.  Keep any correspondence via ebay, never switch to email.  If the seller doesn't answer your precise questions, don't bid.

If the seller replies via ebay that the equipment is in good condition, pay via paypal so if he lies, you can use the ebay / paypal system to litigate and even have the sale canceled at the buyers expense.  Paypal will immediately debit the sellers account for the full amount until the dispute is settled.

It is up to you and your experience to formulate a standard set of questions, which can be added to with specific questions.  If there are so many dishonest ebay sellers, never bid on anything until your questions have been satisfactory answered.

Earl

Edit:  there are time limits involved ebay disputes, so don't wait longer than 2 weeks of discussions with the seller via ebay's mail system, until you escalate to an ebay dispute.

[HumblePie]

@All,

I got PALasm working in Vista with DOSbox free download here:  http://www.dosbox.com/download.php?main=1&begaming_website_session=7cf298a28f5103464d41bdfb7a78a9a9

It creates a virtual C drive which is yourDOSdirectory.  Like this it starts, enter z:> mount c c:\palasm   then enter c: to switch to it.  In my c:\palasm directory, I place this p.bat file:

path c:\exe (because the parent directory 'palasm' is now mounted as virtual c:)
set palasm=c:\ (instead of c:\palasm\exe)
palasm.exe

The bat file is because I can not get autoexec.bat to be read unless Admin Mode, which won't support an initial full screen shot that comes up briefly.  Yes I know the application should not be at the root, but this program expects it there and it is too old to fight with.

Below are the new GAL's with individual frequency shutoffs.  421x4 is positive pulse, 421n4 is negative pulse polarity GAL. 

I tried firing up my toroid briefly last week without trying to adjust Phase.  No lamps lit.  Have been too busy to try again since (since these GAL's were not done!), but I am dwelling on my HVPS loading down.  Series resistance of 22M Ohms to Gnd leaks only 13uA at 280VDC.  I used the same Film 1.5uF 1000V Blocking Cap as the HVPS Cap uses... no leaks.  But when hooked to Secondary loaded down the HVPS.  I will double verify what I saw soon... and post scope shots of the bifilar speaker wire spiral pickup I use with other lead floating.  I still am not sure about this pickup configuration.  I heard it should have a small resistor across the leads, but that shorts the signal received.  A larger one just attenuates the signal.  I will post Scope shots of this later as promised.

Oh ya, I did try many values of series resistance on the bench, not just Earl's suggested 22M.  It so happens 22M Ohm was the only value bigger than 5M I could get up through 100M without having some shipped.

   Here is rough layout of a 2 GAL card with envisioned seperate CLK's and no drivers.  6 Channels and 4 power lines exit via stackable header posts that will go down to a female header to the PWM-Driver card.  I just used the .1" snap to grid to save time trying to see what DIP's could fit.  I know why you SMD guys are there, but DIP's are more hobby friendly to average Joe so I pursue this avenue.  Wire wrap is so slow for me to do.  Time is more than money.  I think I will draw up some schematics and layouts and start ordering cards or etching them.  First to test out the wire-wrapped card I already have ASAP.

Ward

[Earl]

@Ward,
5 Megohm could be high enough to prevent RE output power leakage, maybe even 1 Meg?
In fact, once things are working it would be interesting to know over what range this R could be varied.

Earl

[weri812]

hello!!!!  Ward  @ All

MERRY CHRISTMAS  TO ALLLLLLLLL.


Looks real good  keep up the good work

love and prayers to all  and to all a good  day and nite


wer