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Overunity Machines Forum



Self Running Micro TPU, with closed loop.

Started by EMdevices, November 12, 2007, 11:49:58 PM

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Bruce_TPU

#415
December 12, 2007, 12:09:04 AM
Quote from: 4Tesla on December 11, 2007, 10:13:07 PM
I don't have my toroids yet.. but have been playing with LED circuits and just verified that running LEDs in series takes less current to run.. each time I add another LED it takes 2-4 less mA to run the circuit.. I have reduced the current by 10mA by just adding more LEDs in series.. it doesn't seem to effect the brightness of the LEDs.  I found that running the LEDs in parallel doesn't reduce the circuit current.  I would have thought since you are lighting more LEDs that the circuit current would go up and not down.  Does anyone know why it goes down?  Something to do with the diode voltage drop?

Thanks,
4Tesla

@ 4Tesla
Thanks for that info.  I now have placed four of my LED's in series.  One blue, one red and two yellow.  I will eventually have all blue, rated 2600 mcd in brightness.

@ Sanmankl
I have an interesting experiment going on right now, last one of the night.  I realized I had made an error in how I had the diode I had mentioned to you,  hooked up on the board.  Tested it hooked properly into the board and the circuit did not work at all. 

So I wondered why I had gained time when I had improperly connected it to the board.  Then I realized it was acting as a resistor there.  So I removed it from the circuit and placed a resistor in it's place.

ALL of the 4 LED's are flashing about three times brighter.    I also have the two control wires hooked very different.  (each set of leads simply goes to a small ceramic cap) So, over the next several nights, I will go through my arsenal of resistors and see which one gives the best time.  If none, I will remove it and put it back the way it was.

Then I will unwind these control wires, and rewind, using one turn connected to itself, with unshielded silver plated wire, and going to a cap.  I will do this twice like tuning forks.   ;D  So, no lack of experiments here for the next several days.

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

4Tesla

#416
December 12, 2007, 01:24:22 AM
Bruce,

Your welcome.. did that increase run time?

Thanks,
4Tesla

sanmankl

#417
December 12, 2007, 04:38:13 AM
Quote from: btentzer on December 12, 2007, 12:09:04 AM
Quote from: 4Tesla on December 11, 2007, 10:13:07 PM
I don't have my toroids yet.. but have been playing with LED circuits and just verified that running LEDs in series takes less current to run.. each time I add another LED it takes 2-4 less mA to run the circuit.. I have reduced the current by 10mA by just adding more LEDs in series.. it doesn't seem to effect the brightness of the LEDs.  I found that running the LEDs in parallel doesn't reduce the circuit current.  I would have thought since you are lighting more LEDs that the circuit current would go up and not down.  Does anyone know why it goes down?  Something to do with the diode voltage drop?

Thanks,
4Tesla

@ 4Tesla
Thanks for that info.  I now have placed four of my LED's in series.  One blue, one red and two yellow.  I will eventually have all blue, rated 2600 mcd in brightness.

@ Sanmankl
I have an interesting experiment going on right now, last one of the night.  I realized I had made an error in how I had the diode I had mentioned to you,  hooked up on the board.  Tested it hooked properly into the board and the circuit did not work at all. 

So I wondered why I had gained time when I had improperly connected it to the board.  Then I realized it was acting as a resistor there.  So I removed it from the circuit and placed a resistor in it's place.

ALL of the 4 LED's are flashing about three times brighter.    I also have the two control wires hooked very different.  (each set of leads simply goes to a small ceramic cap) So, over the next several nights, I will go through my arsenal of resistors and see which one gives the best time.  If none, I will remove it and put it back the way it was.

Then I will unwind these control wires, and rewind, using one turn connected to itself, with unshielded silver plated wire, and going to a cap.  I will do this twice like tuning forks.   ;D  So, no lack of experiments here for the next several days.

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce

@Bruce,

This is interesting development indeed. I would need to read this post carefully (not that your description is bad but English is my second language) so that I really understand what you are trying to say.

Thanks. sanmankl

wattsup

#418
December 12, 2007, 07:45:53 AM
@plengo

I took a 9 volt battery that had 8.45 volts on it. Connected it to a 110 volt light bulb for two days. No, the bulb did not light. With the load on, the voltage went down to 0.008 and stayed there. When I remove the bulb, the voltage jumped to 0.346 volts and started slowly going up in .001 increments. Left it for a day and a half. Checked the voltage just now, 3.207 volts steady. lol

Zinc and carbon. I wonder if the LTPU wall material could be made of such a mix of material. SM already said it once, "if this was a battery, it would be a very big battery".

@EEers

If any EEer on the board can go through a step-by-step explanation of how EMs original circuit works, especially when the transistor base is activated and what actually happens in that instance. In layman terms. No reversed bias lingo. lol

Bruce_TPU

#419
December 12, 2007, 07:51:32 AM
@ 4Tesla
I am not sure.  It was very late last night when I found this.  Tonight I will begin proper testing and see if there is any merit to it

@ Sanmankl

Here is my circuit as of last night.  I just need to figure out a) what size resistor at the question mark will increase my time, or b) what resistance value was my diode I had there giving that increased my run time?

Holiday Cheers,
Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.
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