fact ! we are all here to find a F E device and make it runing ! so... :

[Evil Roy Slade]

@mem

It's easy to make a mistake. We ALL do it.

Admitting it is difficult, publicly, moreso.

I say to you, well done. Welcome back to reality.

ERS

[nfeijo]

  @mem

      This happened to me many, many times. This kind of energy is very difficult to measure. Keep trying. As says k4zep, it is always a lot of fun.

       Good luck,

       Ney

[z_p_e]

All the access energy that appears to be
Actually comes from the battery...

Well done Mem. You discovered exactly what I said you would find.

@koen,

Well, I guess you can see now that what I posted was reality. No "proof" needed, and in fact the numbers speak for themselves.

I had no intention of making anyone look bad, including Mem. The fact is folks DO NOT LISTEN sometimes, and sometimes a firmer approach is necessary. It got Mem to look closer at his setup and take a measurement at the battery, didn't it? The truth was then discovered right?

What is your problem with the AC or DC bulb anyway? Bulbs can be rated at whatever voltage and power that you desire. A bulb is a piece of wire with resistance, and to a certain degree inductance. So what? Well, if it's fundamentally a piece of wire, I should be able to power it with AC or DC, or whatever wave form I wish. What is your hangup with this concept ? It has very little relevance to the discussion whether inductive kickback is a form of ou.

The point of bringing up AC and DC loads is because Mem brought it up first. "AC" and "DC" are usually not even printed on a bulb (at least the 110V variety). It matters not whether it is AC or DC. 110V RMS is all that matters, if you want to get the rated power from your bulb.

So for your own sake, get "AC Bulb" out of your head, it means nothing. Go look at your bulbs in the house....does it say 110V (or maybe 120V), AND AC? Probably not. It will say 110V, 100W for example. No indication of wave form type...why? Because it does not matter. The 110V is referring to a RMS voltage, simple as that. The ONLY relevance "AC" or "DC" does have is the type of mating socket fixture. I repeated Mem's "110VAC" because I assumed he meant the type that one uses in your standard AC light socket. If you want to hang me for that, then fill your boots.

If you want to discuss electronics or electrical with or without numbers, and you disagree with my explanations (and you have an analysis of your own), then fine we can discuss it. Anything else is just unproductive..

[Ergo]

@mem,

i wish i could show you my system, i have a system running on a regular automotive 12v dc battery that is providing all of my lighting needs, runs my refridgerator, while at the same time, provide different power for several different voltages for electronic divices i use daily, from 4.5 volts dc all the way up to my 120vac, television!!! all this and it can still provide power for my drill, and saw simutaniously!!!  so never stop dreaming.  how about a schematic of your home device.  my system uses all off the shelf products, and once you understand ohms law you too can do all of these seemingly miraculous things really very easily.

lol
sam

What a load of crap!

[supersam]

@ergo,

trust me when i say you can find all of this in my rv ( recreational vehicle) not rotoverter!



lol
sam