Muller Dynamo

[woopy]

wowww !! Clanzer

As usual fantastic work

Something very clever is your switch to separate each coils set.

Because i tried to separate for instance 3 coils sets from the others (that is to say almost 43 % of the generative production)  and the output result was not 43 % lost at all, On my youtube chanel under "romero test 3 " a participant (USER 127---)made lot of informations regarding the splitting of the charge on all the coils.

So increasing the number of coils also increases the Lenz braking and do not increase a lot or at least in proportion, the output power. That sayd in a very conventional thinking. And of course for this reason it is not possible to crack the wall in conventional physic.

And in fact when i retire 3 from the 7 generative coils the speed of the rotor slightly increases  and the output power slightly decreases. Perfectly in accordance with conventional physic.

The repartition odd / even produce a circular electrical production, as if it is a multitude of "one pulse" coils working as a wave all arround the circular parallel wiring. Just for info you can completely close the + and _ parallel circle wire ,it works also. As you can get your power probes everywhere arround the paralle circle wire.  That's is true and that's disturbs me .

@ Mag

if i remember well the coils set are inductors. And so far i remember the inductors can exibit some increase in voltage !!

yep good night at all

Laurent

[toranarod]

thanks all for the updates. For a sec i thought something happened.
@toranarod : your generator seems like a common generator. I mean a really common one. Almost perfect sine wave. No spikes, no back EMF elimination...

you need to see the schematic to understand the spikes.  then you could read the wave form diagram.
there is 1500 volts of emf coming out of this motor.

[wattsup]

Wow 147 pages already.

Guys making this build, please keep one thing in mind.

Make your drive coils so they can be turned around. Do not mount them permanently.

When you wind a coil, you have the starting wire and first layer that must be as tight as possible so that no layer afterwards can sink through and touch the core. Only the first layer must touch the core. Also this first layer wire is the one that should receive the pulse. If the pulse polarity is not the right one to react against the rotor magnets, then turn the complete coil to face the other way around and DO NOT SIMPLY REVERSE THE DRIVE COIL CONNECTIONS.

So you have the pulse, then the first drive coil gets the pulse on the first layer wire, then from the other end it goes to the second drive coil that again is connected to the first layer wire then from the other end of that second coil go back to the pulsing circuit. On the other drive coil pair, make it so the pulse hits the first layer of the coil that is on the other side of the rotor. This way the pulse hits one coil per rotor side.

There are other methods for pulsing two drive coils...
1) A center tap on each drive coil will give you some great variation possibilities.
2) Connect first drive coil then to a capacitor and a zenor diode to the second drive coil will give you a delayed second pulse off the second drive coil.
but none of these are related to this replication.

The same care should be given to the pick-up coils, especially the first several layers should not push through previous layers otherwise this can cause transfer bottlenecks. These coils should also be physically reversible. Do not connect these in series before you have the rotor turning and you can confirm polarity of each coil wire before making a connection strategy that should be in series + to - to + to - and so on.

During your experimenting, it is good to keep a record of how all the connections are made and the output results so that you can replicate any configuration afterwards. Always identify the coils 1st layer connection point. There are two many potential variables to try and keep track with simple memory.

wattsup

[CLaNZeR]

Could you take some time and share your bearing setup for the Rotor?
Many replicators are having some trouble in this area.

Hi Bill

I am using the good old faithfull RC miniature flange bearings.
These are tough little buggers that are good for 30'000 RPM and take the weight of a rotor brilliantly.
Really low friction and long wind down times.

I go down to as small as 1mm internal size for smaller rotors. But with this one I went bigger to 3mm.

All that is needed is a 6mm hole to mount then bearings in and a shaft lathed down to 3mm on the ends to fit.

I use a Gear shaft to mount the rotor on and again i has a perfect tight 6mm hole for a 6mm shaft.

Here are some pictures, that show how simple it is.

Cheers

Sean.

[CLaNZeR]

Something very clever is your switch to separate each coils set.

Hi Laurent

The switches do not isolate the coils, they simple switch the polarity for each coil.
This way I do not have to disconnect wires to try attraction vs repulsion mode.
Also the drive coils have switches to do this.

I was planning on putting isolation switches on each bridge rectifier, to knock off the load on each coil.

This way we can try many configurations.

It gets messy when trying to de-solder wires after you have built it, so lessons learnt from previous replications, I add what I can, just in case to make life easier

Cheers

Sean.