Muller Dynamo

[romerouk]

Ah I still got a question about the 2 Hall sensors (I didn't find the exact info the previous pages):

First of all I assume that the 8 small magnets (the ones pointing outwards on the side of the rotor) are in line with the 8 larger magnets. Is this correct?

Then the final question is: at which positions are the 2 Hall sensors placed: are both hall sensors just placed "before" each one of the driver coils? With "before" I mean in rotation direction before the driver coil)

Let's clarify some points regarding the sensors:
not both of them are using the small magnets.I started originally with both using the small magnets to switch then I tried to move one to get max results.
The second one is facing the big magnets from the top.This one from the top is activated after the magnet passed, the other one on the side of the rotor is activated like 1mm after the magnet passed the center coil.
This is difficult to explain, testing yourself will get you there but do the testing separate not both of then at the same time.

[toranarod]

I had only a 5w bulb as with the 20w bulb the dc converter gets hot after some time.
I tried to add the bulb before the dc convertor but there is more than 12 volts and the bulb will not last.
This DC converter is max 3amp but I am very happy about it plus the price was very low. Nice device and I think that all people should have one, it helps a lot in any other builds where people are trying self looping.I has even load protection and thermal protection too.I have tried for a second a 50w bulb as load and it switched off imediately.

what is type is your DC to DC converter

this is what I have

[bolt]

If you want to make a powerful version consider carefully using a 3 phase motor into RV mode. When prepared properly degreased bearings and no fan etc RV will turn a very large rotor with as  little as 10 watts.  The motor also has your center bearing and the motor flange can be used to bolt directly the stator head.  See Kones construction details as he has been making these for well over a decade. This makes construction much faster, cheaper and stronger.

As Romero stated the pulse driving of this generator is not important at all. That is only a method to turn the rotor.  So no need to worry about the hall devices and timing to drive it. Just rotate the damn thing! But make sure you use like >95% efficient motor.

Its only the construction and detail to the generator CORES and MAGNETS which provides the OU.  Driven by RV and using 2 inch neo magnets and 2 inch cores these can produce typical 25 volts at about 2 amp on 3000 rpm rotor each coil.  BUT when peak sine shorted these cores can produce 250/300 V each around 500mA = 125 watts per coil.  All 11 coils can now be generator coils and the o/p can be dumped into 2 off 750 Watt Computer power supplies to provide OU 1KW at 12v DC 85 amps! or 24v at 40 amps and use a battery charge controller.

Although these can run on DC they work even better HF AC or take out the first FWBR and mains filter and connect direct to cap bank for DC.

These can charge deep cycle batteries and inverter is used to convert 12v to 240 to run the RV 3 phase motor. Now you have 1kw average with peak handling only limited by your inverter and battery bank size.  This is competitive to huge solar systems or wind power neither of which is available 24/7. In this instance power is 24/7 and the total system cost could easy be 1/10th of any other pre-existing technology watt for watt.

[DreamThinkBuild]

Hi Romero, Bolt,

To ALL:
This generator can be driven by many other circuits or from an external motor connected to the shaft.Don't concentrate too much on the circuit used to drive the coils, that is simple.

As Romero stated the pulse driving of this generator is not important at all. That is only a method to turn the rotor. Its only the construction and detail to the generator CORES and MAGNETS which provides the OU.

This means that coil and magnet spacing are the key and not the switching circuit? Ok, so if we drive the rotor with a <5Watt DC motor we should be able to self run the motor without the drive coils. That would simplify the design greatly.

Thanks again for all your time and input.

[bolt]

A standard DC brushed motor is CRAP they are only about 60% efficient.  If you want to loop first you must make sure you minimise ALL losses. This is always the first step. Remember you got to get a COP>2 PLUS losses to loop. If you go cheap on this and try  a make a toy version using 6v model motor and bit of ply wood for the rotor it will not work i guarantee it! Its the very reason for so many bedini failures is due to very bad construction.

The bigger and stronger you make this thing the better it works. That why i gave you the heads up on using 3 phase mains induction motor and RotoVertor it.  Most efficient  off the shelf motor in the world often found in the trash or cheap off ebay.