Muller Dynamo

[u2btchr]

RomeroUK.

A big thankyou for open sourcing your project and for  the drawings that are worth a 1000 comments of 'how to'.

I have some clear acrylic plastic sewing machine bobbins (approx 20mm wide x 10 mm deep w. 6 mm hole) and wound #34 wire tri-filar on them but they heated up quickly and I melted the bobbins [bummer], but did not use a ferrite core, nor any washer and magnets on top/bottom. - - - Would you explain more about the size and coil bobbins you use? -- Also, is a single wire wind (i.e.#28) worth winding on the bobbins next? [will be approx. 200 winds each].

Last question on Muller coils. He wound coils which resembled a cone-shape when done right, and the wire was not wound 'back and forth' but one direction to the top, and then started from the bottom up again, each time. -- Is this type of coil wind beneficial in your type of build or is the back 'n forth wind acceptable for efficiency for thinner wire guage?

Again..... I rate your project 10+ !!!! I look forward to more as you experiment.

An old wood shop tchr of 39+ years teaching.

PS  -- I have a couple kids at school wanting to replicate your project based on your video's!

[yssuraxu_697]

Hi, like some others I want to point out importance of the core material.

Attempts to use solid metal cores or even laminations will likely be futile.
With low power system good RF ferrite with low eddy loss should work but
for full sized system getting proper core material is very problematic.
So if people here have magnetite on hands then it would be good time
to try this out:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7468-how-can-i-make-good-magnetic-sand-cores.html#post131820

To make it more visual there is video:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=470

This is my litte test device for trying this and that. Basically
pulse motor. At first I did drive coil average Joe style, on steel
bolt. Minimal possible drive voltage was then 0.5V. After that
I constructed drive coil on oversized RF ferrite core. Minimal
possible drive voltage settled at 0.1V and it got a lot more
efficent overall.

Now what I do in the video is just remove totally unused and
unshorted old drive coil from the system (running on new coil at 0.2V).
Pretty dramatic acceleration of rotor occurs.

So to sum it up... Presence of any conductive material in the
rotor field besides windings severly degrades performance.
Electricity has no reason whatsoever to form in windings if
it has alternative paths... be it core, frame details etc.

BTW romerouk, have you tried it with air coils. Maybe it is not critical
to have cores? I say this because current cores are rather undersized for given magnets/coils
and likely get totally saturated. Do they really play significant role at all... ?
Or maybe it is the role... sort of saturable reactor?

[Groundloop]

Hi, like some others I want to point out importance of the core material.

Attempts to use solid metal cores or even laminations will likely be futile.
With low power system good RF ferrite with low eddy loss should work but
for full sized system getting proper core material is very problematic.
So if people here have magnetite on hands then it would be good time
to try this out:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/7468-how-can-i-make-good-magnetic-sand-cores.html#post131820

To make it more visual there is video:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=470

This is my litte test device for trying this and that. Basically
pulse motor. At first I did drive coil average Joe style, on steel
bolt. Minimal possible drive voltage was then 0.5V. After that
I constructed drive coil on oversized RF ferrite core. Minimal
possible drive voltage settled at 0.1V and it got a lot more
efficent overall.

Now what I do in the video is just remove totally unused and
unshorted old drive coil from the system (running on new coil at 0.2V).
Pretty dramatic acceleration of rotor occurs.

So to sum it up... Presence of any conductive material in the
rotor field besides windings severly degrades performance.
Electricity has no reason whatsoever to form in windings if
it has alternative paths... be it core, frame details etc.

BTW romerouk, have you tried it with air coils. Maybe it is not critical
to have cores? I say this because current cores are rather undersized for given magnets/coils
and likely get totally saturated. Do they really play significant role at all... ?
Or maybe it is the role... sort of saturable reactor?

I have air core coils in my Muller and it does NOT give out any free energy.
I think the smartest thing to do is to replicate romerouk's setup.

GL.

[wattsup]

@romerouk

Nice video. I like it.

Now imagine that magnet wheel was twice the diameter keeping the magnet/coils you have now in place but having a wheel that goes further out beyond where the magnet/coils are now. On the outer edge of the wheel you put more magnets and only drive coils. Now imagine what will happen when this wheel not only takes advantage of the dioded pick-up coils expelling their energy at every input state, but now the outer most drive coils can take advantage of more leverage then the pickup coils will ever be able to drag backwards.

Right now, with the magnets and coils on the same circumference, like 99% of all these types of builds, you cannot take advantage of any leverage. Leverage is the free force you can use to counter drag thus increase your output without increasing your input.

I put an explanation of this here some time ago.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=7833.msg261177#msg261177

Very good job indeed and thank you for sharing your works.

wattsup

[e2matrix]

NP,

For constant power to a given load, post DC-DC works best.

But I agree, for the best efficiency of power transfer to the load, it should be placed pre DC-DC, as long as the load can handle the worst-case power surge possible going into it.

.99

Agree with nul-points and you but I think Romero said (although I might be dreaming) that the only reason it was after was the voltage coming off the coils (I think about 15 volts) would likely have blown the 12 volt lamp or overheated it and shortened it's life - something along that line was said I believe. 
Ooops, I see Romero confirmed this back a page or so sorry for duplicate info as I had not read that far.