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Overunity Machines Forum



Working Magnetic Motor on you tube??

Started by Craigy, January 04, 2008, 04:11:39 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 22 Guests are viewing this topic.

Omnibus

@MeggerMan,

The stator magnets recommended (the one's I also bought) have part number R3.

EDIT: My bad. the stator bearings recommended have part number R3. Sorry about that.

ken_nyus

Were you guys able to find stator bearings the same size as Al's?

ID 0.1875, OD 0.5, and 0.125 thick?

That seems to be a hard exact size to find.

Also are these bearings with shields and lubrication/grease inside, or no grease, no shields (you can see the balls) and free running?


geodan

re post...

    *
      CommentAuthoralsetalokin
    * CommentTime11 minutes ago

permalinkquote
"Test1:
With the rotor removed from the baseplate, using a single rotor magnet, measure how far away from stator you need to be to be able the move the stator magnet using repulsion force. With a heavily magnetic bearing I expect this distance to be very small because of the large amount of friction.
From the ease with which you seem to be able to spin the stators I suspect you have some very non-magnetic bearings."

The bearings are very ferromagnetic, but they seem not to lock up as I would have expected, maybe due to the diametric magnetization of the outer race and the free-spinning of the balls and the inner race.
The answer to the test question is about 10.5 cm.


"Test2:
Using a piece of plastic tube slide the magnet and bearing onto it and measure the maximum gap before the bearing falls off from its own weight overcoming the attraction force."

I don't want to do this test right now, as the only bearings I have of this type are mounted with magnets, and I don't want to disassemble any of them, for what should be obvious reasons.

"Test3:
Using a tube that the rotor magnet can fit in, measure the repulsion distance between like pole of the stator ring magnet. Setup should look like and exclamation mark!"

The answer here seems to be, magnet in holder with bearing, about 3.5 or 3.7 cm. A bare magnet gives roughly the same, maybe, strangely, a few millimeters less. I don't really have a good tube here, the tube I'm using might have some drag.

Bruce_TPU

Quote from: geodan on January 20, 2008, 07:06:47 PM
re post...

    *
      CommentAuthoralsetalokin
    * CommentTime11 minutes ago

permalinkquote
"Test1:
With the rotor removed from the baseplate, using a single rotor magnet, measure how far away from stator you need to be to be able the move the stator magnet using repulsion force. With a heavily magnetic bearing I expect this distance to be very small because of the large amount of friction.
From the ease with which you seem to be able to spin the stators I suspect you have some very non-magnetic bearings."

The bearings are very ferromagnetic, but they seem not to lock up as I would have expected, maybe due to the diametric magnetization of the outer race and the free-spinning of the balls and the inner race.
The answer to the test question is about 10.5 cm.


"Test2:
Using a piece of plastic tube slide the magnet and bearing onto it and measure the maximum gap before the bearing falls off from its own weight overcoming the attraction force."

I don't want to do this test right now, as the only bearings I have of this type are mounted with magnets, and I don't want to disassemble any of them, for what should be obvious reasons.

"Test3:
Using a tube that the rotor magnet can fit in, measure the repulsion distance between like pole of the stator ring magnet. Setup should look like and exclamation mark!"

The answer here seems to be, magnet in holder with bearing, about 3.5 or 3.7 cm. A bare magnet gives roughly the same, maybe, strangely, a few millimeters less. I don't really have a good tube here, the tube I'm using might have some drag.

Thanks Al.  Now time for real progress.  Omnibus, I have ordered N35's and will test with those.  Let's each replicator test the same as Al and report their findings, and see if we can find a match for the rotor magnets.

Cheers,

Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.