Personal test cell. 12in electrodes

[CarbedNotch]

It's a 4 stroke engine which means it only needs the fuel mixture 1 of 4 rotations. (Not 2 like you said)
"3000rpm is using 5L every 2 cycles so it's 5x1500."

[Fascinated_Oak]

A four stroke engine makes 2 revolutions to go trough it's 4 cycles (suck, compress, bang, blow). Suck and compress uses 1 revolution, bang and blow uses 1 revolution.

And i don't think gasoline is measured in liquid state when you use your formula, but in the gas state.

Liquid gasoline doesn't burn, only the fume does.

[strela]

@CarbedNotch
Fascinated_Oak already explained why is 2 instead of 4.

@Fascinated_Oak

Yes, I know it's is using fumes only but my last calculation is pretty accurate from point of "required liquid gas".
I think I have an idea... Let me think about it..

Later

[CarbedNotch]

Yes its true.
So with every 2 turns of the crank need it needs a fuel mixture...

[darbee63]

Nice setup carb:)

My setup is similar. I call it darbees gatlin.
Instead of going through the extra effort of using internal separators like yours or meijer I found it much easier just to build 6 -1 1/2" around 1-  1 1/2" tube and let them all touch by silver soldering them all together on the outside in a circle.

Its pretty simple, silver solder or weld 2 tubes together then build 2 more so you have 3 sets of 1 1/2 inch tubes welded together, then take the 3 tubes welded together and hold them around a single 1 1/2 " tube and it makes a circle, then just silver solder the outside tubes together and you have one less set of connections to make, and by silver soldering or welding them together on the top and bottom where they all touch together, you now have a a unit that acts as one with a pretty equal resistance value no matter where you land the wire.
The tricky part for me was tieing the interior tubes, 2 tubes no problem, 3 tubes no problem..........try 5 tubes starting with 1 1/2', 1 1/4", 1', 3/4", and 1/2"......now your space for inserting spacers becomes pretty limited and pretty tricky for a guy in his garage.
I run about 20-25 inches of water column at about 30 amps straight power nonpulsed. I haven't measured LPM, but from what I see, the only system comparitable to what I have built is a guy named daddyo on youtube (seems like a great guy with lots of great info to share).
I too have run into the same problem of a cell not working at times when pulsing. But whenever I use straight juice................never fails or let me down yet, and I'm quite happy with the production I'm getting.
I'm not looking for a replacement completely just a supplement to ease the gas pump pain.
My vehicle rather likes the HHO when piped into the throttle body.
What I'm looking for is a circuit board schematic for reading millivolts. My O2 sensor is a narrow band that puts out 0-1v. With 1 volt being rich which is what I'm trying to simulate.
I have 2 O2 sensors that I have to read and then 2 signals to the ECM that I need to trick.
Madscientist on youtube has come up with a fairly simple solution for sending the signal but I'd rather see it with LED lights like an air/fuel ration meter does other then guess or ride with my meter on my seat.

Know where I can get a schematic for an LED air/fuel guage or indicator that reads 0-1v in millivolts I can build?
I'd greatly appreciate it.
Also being that carbeurators tend to backfire when playing around with them, I don't think I would not use a bubbler on a carbeurated set-up.
Same goes for a pump set-up.
Now if your still serious about a pump setup try a soda machine CO2 pump. They use 25psi of CO2 thats adjustble to run the pump and inject it into the syrup/water.
You could do the same thing with the HHO. No electrical or mechanical parts just regulators and diaphrams.

Thanks and have a great day
Darbee63