The Tesla Project

[quantum1024]

@ armagdn03
Ahhh, THANK YOU! I think i get it. the charge discharge cycling time.

P.S. Sorry about the other recent posts, I apologize. I did not read deep enough into what you where saying till later. your very knowledgeable and i thank you for sharing it.

[armagdn03]

no problem! no need to apologize either! if you didn't question the "rules" you probably wouldn't be here, no need to follow like sheep, lol 

[Maximumgravity1]

So, I am going to veer off topic a bit, and get back to the Ozone patent and Erfinders list of parts.  Sorry to disrupt, as I think some of the info being exchanged is interesting.

In looking at 568,177 there are three basic elements - a source of high self inductance (the motor windings - 568,177 Lines 90-98), a capacitor that must be discharged to create oscillation (568,177 Lines 32-40), and an inductive coil to step up potential and provide the "working" circuit its source (568,177 pg2 Lines3-6).

I do not have all the same parts as Erfinder recommended, but I think I have the basic idea.  I have a SPDT relay, a 47uf cap, and two 4700uf caps wired in parallel.  For my choke coil, I am using my Cook Battery coils primaries (the small wires) wired in series with each other.  My Cook coils are over 3 feet long, with over 1700-2200 turns of #28 magnet wire.  So 3400-4800 turns of wire.

In short, what I see is that we went to all the trouble to build some high self-inductance with the relay coil, and the choke coil.  Somehow we need to use that.  The way I did this was to run my positive battery lead through my Cook battery Primaries, then jump into the power side of the relay coil (sorry I don't know the terminology of relays).  A short jumper lead from the relay power coil "out"side to the "switched" side common post.  From the common I jumped off to one side of the 47uf cap.  I ran the other side of the cap through a #10 wire that I stripped the insulation off of, and ran it through the center of a #18 or so solid copper wire coil that I wrapped around a screw driver for 2 dozen or so turns.  Then connected to the "Normally Open" side of my relay.

Off of my secondary (N in the patent) I connected my parallel 4700uf caps.  I haven't installed my push button yet, as I have just been jumping my batteries directly to the relay terminals.  BTW, my batteries are two series connected 6V "lantern" batteries.

Two points of interest, when I touch my battery lead to my "NC" post on my relay, I get a high pitched hum/buzz.  Not what I expected.  Almost sounds like a little speaker or horn.  What is interesting, if I connect the second half of my 47uf cap/coil to the "NC" side(instead of the "NO" side, I get very distinct hammering of the switch - more of what I expected.  It is much slower - several RPM per second, and much more pronounced, but this is the equivalent of moving the entire 568177 patent to one side of the circuit controller and having everything in series.  The interesting note, is you can see that the higher resistance makes a difference in relay operation.

The really interesting point, in connecting my multimeter to the outputs of my 24 turn coil "N" - across my 4700uf caps - I have gotten some AMAZING voltage readings.  I have seen a steady 9.0V AC (yes AC - Tesla said "oscillations" so I switched to the AC side when I was getting minimal DC readings), and had a hard time duplicating it when I tried to add another cap to run an accidentally purchased AC Relay.  Later, I got over 450V AC, and watched it slowly bleed down by fluctuation over a 30 second period to around 30V AC.  In trying to duplicate these sporadic attempts, I am finding I get pretty consistent big spikes if I short my battery lead to one of the other leads on the relay.  If I put my battery lead down between the "NO" and "NC" posts, I see the most consistent fluctuations, but can't keep it steady )I am thinking the discharges are out of time/sporadic).

What I am guessing is one of two things:
1.)  I am not getting a full/consistent discharge from my 47uf cap.  Even in looking at the 568,177 patent, I see the cap can only discharge when the control circuit is "closed"
2.)  When the relay switches to "NO" I am running the full inductive load plus the battery charge to one side of the 47uf cap - which I feel is correct in looking at the patent.  Again tied to the same problem above, I wonder if the relay is not making a full "open" contact, since i am getting this weird high-pitch hum.  Maybe if I increased my resistance/self inductance on the "NO" leg going to the cap, it would help open that switch fully..I just don't know.  I don't know enough about these things to understand what that relay noise is signifying.

I am thinking that by shorting between the "NO" and "NC" terminals, I am getting what I am supposed to be after.  I am just not sure why I am seeing it only when shorted.  Of course, the biggest rise - always - is when I remove the battery lead.  This also tells me I don't have something quite right, as I am not getting the "collapse" I should be.

Any thoughts???

[Maximumgravity1]

Replying to myself...but I got it....

I am getting a consistent flux of 150VAC to 640VAC

I took my relay as set up to begin with, but dropped my cap leg off.  So all my inductive load is running into my powered side, coming back out and right into my common.  From my "NC" side, I am running to a second relay "power in".  From my "Power out" I am running to one leg of my 47uf cap.  On the other leg of the cap, I run into my M/N inductive coil, then directly into the common side of my second relay.  From the "NC" post of my second relay, I run to my "NC" post of my first relay.  SO ironically the "NC" side of my first relay is powering my second, and also where the 47uf cap is dumping/discharging.

In retyping this, I am not sure the second relay is necessary as I have it wired.

I am still playing with a few things, but I am still getting varying results.  Now I am ranging from about 12V AC to about 250V AC.  I can definitely HEAR when I am getting more voltage - it sounds "strained".  I have seen a surge as high as 680v AC on one of these "strains".  More later....

EDIT:
On continued testing, I am getting readings on HV DC as well.  It is still sporadic and tends to fluctuate, so I think something still isn't quite right.  But I am seeing voltages from 12-350.  It goes through a little adjustment period, then starts really screaming, and straining, and will spike as high as 450+, then settles down a bit, and will bleed back down to around 30-50.  It will continue to discharge slowly to around 12, then head back up to about 30-50, start straining and squealing, and over 250 again.  It seems to want to "bleed down" when left runing for a few minutes and settle into the 12-50 range with sporadic surges...strange.

EDIT 2:
Maybe I just can't read a multimeter.  Maybe it is because the energy is pulsed and/or radiant - but if I switch the meter between 500HV, 200VDC and 20VDC, all that happens is my decimal place moves to the left for each setting.  Anyway, still getting some interesting results.  I rthink part of my inconsistency is bad connections due to aligator clips and small components.  I have been hesitant to solder until I got something working.  I am getting close enough, a few minor resolders might not be so bad.  So far checking the voltage across the 47uF cap has had the highest numbers.  I can't get too concerned, as this is a hodgepodge of components of various resistances, so it seems the concept is working.  I have been able to remove my second relay again, and had similar results.

[quantum1024]

Sorry for the interrupt.  just posting my thoughts on this control disk problem. this is 50/50 duty cycle.. i'm also thinking that more brushes can be placed around the 2 disks for more contacts if I need them, this also allows for setting the degrees of when events happen. rather then just 90 and 180, now it would be selectable.  i'm also debating on the motor to use, does it matter if it's AC or DC if i have control disks?
Thanks.